Has anyone ever thought about installing an independent by-pass filtering system?

[Alex D]

.....using a switcheable electric pump with two fittings/bungs welded to the oil pan. It would be completely separate. oil would be drawn from the oil pan and returned to the oilpan after filtering and maybe even cooling it. One could use a dry sump oil pump to rig such a system. The intake could actually be the oil drain plug and the return could be installed in a different position. A cooler could be hooked into this system too. All without straining or restricting the main oiling system for the engine.

 

[Mykro]

It's a lot less complicated than you make it out to be.. I have 3 Frantz bypass TP filters on my truck. Here.. Check these out.

http://www.garynorth.com/y2k/detail_.cfm/5359
http://www.lubetrak.com/newsletter/July09HTML.html
http://www.gulfcoastfilter.com/why.htm

http://www.wefilterit.com/

Also do a search on this site on member # 265 (Ralph Wood) And read every post.. Ralph Wood is a Bypass oil filter guru and expert. He could answer all your questions regarding oil filtration..
www.bypassfilter.com

[ November 30, 2003, 11:54 PM: Message edited by: Mykro ]

 

[unDummy]

quote:

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Originally posted by Alex D:
.....using a switcheable electric pump with two fittings/bungs welded to the oil pan. It would be completely separate. oil would be drawn from the oil pan and returned to the oilpan after filtering and maybe even cooling it. One could use a dry sump oil pump to rig such a system. The intake could actually be the oil drain plug and the return could be installed in a different position. A cooler could be hooked into this system too. All without straining or restricting the main oiling system for the engine.

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I've been thinking about this for a while(need to run to patent lawyer). But, I'd have to break my habit of changing the oil.
An independent bypass system(if not already patented by some company), with its own dedicated pump/sump/flowrate/cooling that scrubs pan oil without dropping flow or pressure to the engine is IMHO the best system. I bet that the person that sells this will make a ton of money. Simple pump/siphon/filter/drain and associated plumbing/wiring should be cheap enough to kit to make a good profit. You could even siphon out of the dipstick, filter the oil, and drain it back into the valve cover without punching holes in the pan.
Wire a small e-pump to the ignition or a mech pump with a pulley to the engine wouldn't be all that hard. Dry sump systems exist and a simple design could be adapted for filtering/cooling/accumulation.......

Seems that because cost/budget accounting and automotive engineering go hand in hand. I just doubt that stock oiling systems have enough reserve pressure and volume for bypass without an increase in wear. Great, oil is cleaner, sucks that engine is wearing out faster.
This is way different than fleet trucks with mega sumps/pumps/flow........and isn't affected by additional filtration.

 

[RalphPWood]

Filters that can clean oil well enough to eliminate oil changes and most engine wear have been around since the thirties. The problem is clean oil doesn't generate very good profits. I learned a long time ago that when selling filters that clean oil you had better have a different reason than making money. It needs to be a hobby or a cause. The system of pulling oil out of an engine with a pump cleaning it and returning it is not new. Diesel engines above 4,000 HP do that. Gulf Coast filters do that. It isn't necessary on smaller engines. A good oil pump in a good engine will pump a lot more oil than the engine can use. To keep the seals from blowing out the excess oil is bled off by the oil pump relief valve and dumped back into the oil pan . Some of the excess oil is diverted to a bypass filter to be cleaned. A 1/16" orifice in the filter keeps too much oil from going thru the filter. That is how it was done at the factory before 1953. Years ago Fram had a decal on the filter with a dip stick with golden oil on it. It read "the dipstick tells the story". Modern filters are only strainers. At some time the good elements for the old bypass filters were no longer available. They were replaced with junk pleated paper. No one is in the business of making your engine last longer and eliminating engine wear. They are in the business of selling a product. You have to think for yourself. You have to sort out the fiction from the facts. You can pay 10.00 a quart for oil, allow it to get dirty and it isn't as good as 1.00 a quart oil that is clean.
When I was young and working in a full service gas station I was checking people's dip stick and saying sir it looks like you could use an oil change. I checked the oil on an old Caddy with a Frantz oil cleaner. I said sir it looks like you just changed your oil. He said, "yes, about 100,000 miles ago". I was never the same after that.

The old Caddy came from the factory with a bypass filter but it wasn't submicronic like the Frantz. I personally prefer the Motor Guard but your engine doesn't know the difference. I like to use the Perma-Cool sandwich adapter. It doesn't take oil off the system. All of the oil goes thru the full flow filter but some of it goes to the Motor Guard to be cleaned first. The orifice isn't needed with with a sandwich adapter. You can use the Motor Guard ATF filter with the adapter and the filter will heat up faster in cold weather. The ATF filter has a 1/8" element bypass orifice.

Ralph