yea my 88 had one like that. ask me how i i know
arent newer ones on driver side firewall fender area? i havent looked. i believe they can be tested as well
hard start sometimes
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OVERKILL
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They can be tested. But they are notorious for causing the type of issue you are experiencing. I had an aftermarket one cause that on my Townie. I replaced it with a Motorcraft one, used Arctic Silver heatsink paste on it, and it was fine.
well i had the module tested it tested good. i replaced the thermostat today for a slight leak and everything i checked seemed ok. my only guess is the back tank wasn't used for awhile and when the tanks were cross flowing it was dirtying up the fuel. i really dont know. i have some redline in the gas tank now and so far it hasn't done it again. stone cold it cranked for about 4 seconds. been like that all day maybe a little quicker after the first initial start of the day.
if i check fuel pressure on the truck. with the the switch on front tank will it only check pressure on the front tank pump and lines as well as with testing with the rear will it only take pressure from the rear when switch is set to rear. i want to rule out as uch as possible. thanks guys.
OVERKILL
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If you are checking it at the schrader valve on the rail, then yes.
ok i will check it toorrow. seems like it does it like this. start it up in the morning= fine drive it somewhere or let it just idle for a few minutes say to bleed the cooling system. then shut it off then come back 10-20 mins later and boom it will not start right up. once its started though it can be shut off and started right back up its only when letting it sit for a few minutes.
Originally Posted By: OVERK1LL
This can be a failing TFI module. Does it have a Ford one? (it is on the distributor).
Should be on heatsink on fender well, least it was on the 5.8 in my '93 Lightning...
If it starts immediately by just touching the throttle, I'd suspect a TPS problem... As long as it runs fine otherwise, I wouldn't worry about it, you'll get a CEL and have drivability issues if the the TPS has major issues...
Fuel pressure will cause drivability issues long before it will cause a starting problem...
This can be a failing TFI module. Does it have a Ford one? (it is on the distributor).
Should be on heatsink on fender well, least it was on the 5.8 in my '93 Lightning...
If it starts immediately by just touching the throttle, I'd suspect a TPS problem... As long as it runs fine otherwise, I wouldn't worry about it, you'll get a CEL and have drivability issues if the the TPS has major issues...
Fuel pressure will cause drivability issues long before it will cause a starting problem...
OVERKILL
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They moved them to the fender in the early 90's IIRC. I couldn't recall if the OP's was fender or dizzy mounted.
I had a failing TFI that would cause hard starts. Eventually it caused a stall out too. I kept a spare (and the tool to change it) in the glovebox. It had an aftermarket TFI that I never trusted.
I had a failing TFI that would cause hard starts. Eventually it caused a stall out too. I kept a spare (and the tool to change it) in the glovebox. It had an aftermarket TFI that I never trusted.
i like it much better on the fender. much easier to change!! i just wish i could figure this out.
OVERKILL
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Originally Posted By: chevyboy14
i like it much better on the fender. much easier to change!! i just wish i could figure this out.
Yes, the fender mounted ones weren't prone to failure like the dizzy ones either.
i like it much better on the fender. much easier to change!! i just wish i could figure this out.
Yes, the fender mounted ones weren't prone to failure like the dizzy ones either.
is that possibly because they are farther away from heat?
OVERKILL
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Originally Posted By: chevyboy14
is that possibly because they are farther away from heat?
That's exactly why they fail, so yes. The heatsink pretty much eliminates the issue.
is that possibly because they are farther away from heat?
That's exactly why they fail, so yes. The heatsink pretty much eliminates the issue.
explains why GM's fail a lot to . guys at GM "hey i have a brilliant idea lets take this electrical part that hates heat and stick under the distributor cap that way there is fire all around it. other guy at GM "but wont that create extra heat and ruin the parts faster" first GM guy " we will just keep the design the same for 25 yrs and do it on every single car we make, that way its easy to get a replacement when it does fail" gotta love GM
anyone know what the fuel pressure should be around? going to test it in a few minutes.
thanks they aren't to picky i guess. lol
Originally Posted By: chevyboy14
thanks they aren't to picky i guess. lol
True, basically you should see 30-33 at idle with vac on the regulator and around 40 without vac... The important reading would be that on the road, it should maintain approx 40 psi under hard acceleration...
thanks they aren't to picky i guess. lol
True, basically you should see 30-33 at idle with vac on the regulator and around 40 without vac... The important reading would be that on the road, it should maintain approx 40 psi under hard acceleration...
OVERKILL
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It'll usually be between 30 and 40psi. IIRC "spec" is 39psi with the vacuum line off the regulator.
Basically, it is exactly as TFB1 described.
Basically, it is exactly as TFB1 described.
well fuel pressure check is a no go. the gauge i rented is faulty...... but i checked tps .6v koeo 3.7 wot. the ects is also in spec. i checked battery voltage while cranking and all vacuum lines. i went to take the iac motor off but the screwdriver heads are just going to strip. so i removed the whole things. was a little dirty. not bad though. i cleaned it and re installed. seems like after cleaning the iac that it idles at 750 instead of 900 and starts a lot better. but i am not certain that was the issue. but so far so good. seemed like switching from front to rear tank to start didn't make a difference. before doing all the stuff today i tried that it would crank excessively on either tank.
to take the screwdriver head bolts off just use a "hammer style impact driver" I bought mine at a menards for $5. another thing to check/replace would be the coolant temp sensor. I had 2 of the 302 powered F150's and they would go bad every few years or so causing random issues, as well as the PCV's. Fuel pressure test is a must if the original issue comes back, that way you can eliminate the fuel pump as the issue.
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