I couldn't find rebates that are mentioned in this thread. Only found free license plate offers with Mobil 1 through Autozone. I'm going to the store now to see if I can find what Im looking for, otherwise its off to Walmart.
hard driven BMW weekend and track
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edyvw
$50 site donor 2025
Originally Posted By: j12
I couldn't find rebates that are mentioned in this thread. Only found free license plate offers with Mobil 1 through Autozone. I'm going to the store now to see if I can find what Im looking for, otherwise its off to Walmart.
Some AZ's.
There is sale on Pentosin in some AZ's, but not here in CO for example.
I couldn't find rebates that are mentioned in this thread. Only found free license plate offers with Mobil 1 through Autozone. I'm going to the store now to see if I can find what Im looking for, otherwise its off to Walmart.
Some AZ's.
There is sale on Pentosin in some AZ's, but not here in CO for example.
Originally Posted By: j12
I couldn't find rebates that are mentioned in this thread. Only found free license plate offers with Mobil 1 through Autozone. I'm going to the store now to see if I can find what Im looking for, otherwise its off to Walmart.
Google "Pennzoil rebate." Then google "motor oil rebate" to get to Offers.Pennzoil.com/rebate
Pennzoil motor oil rebate
Or you can go to the Pennzoil/QS sites and select "promotions." Then make your way along "do it yourself" and "$2 per quart." The first way is easier. All 3 for Pennzoil, QS, and Mobil work about the same way. No oil offers currently from Mobil. The Pennzoil and Quaker State offers were running all 12 months of 2016 and end tonight. A $12 Mobil 1 rebate should show up in a month or two.
I couldn't find rebates that are mentioned in this thread. Only found free license plate offers with Mobil 1 through Autozone. I'm going to the store now to see if I can find what Im looking for, otherwise its off to Walmart.
Google "Pennzoil rebate." Then google "motor oil rebate" to get to Offers.Pennzoil.com/rebate
Pennzoil motor oil rebate
Or you can go to the Pennzoil/QS sites and select "promotions." Then make your way along "do it yourself" and "$2 per quart." The first way is easier. All 3 for Pennzoil, QS, and Mobil work about the same way. No oil offers currently from Mobil. The Pennzoil and Quaker State offers were running all 12 months of 2016 and end tonight. A $12 Mobil 1 rebate should show up in a month or two.
There's a variety of oils you can run. Most any of the 0W-5W-40's should be fine. I run anything from Castrol, Motul, Rotella Syn 5W-40, Castrol 5W-50, some prefer M1 15W-50. In the Chumpcar I worked on we ran 10W-60 and added a quart either every stint or every other. Lots of options for good oils. Make SURE it's a high zinc, high HTHS oil though for a track toy. Ours see tons of track abuse and no oil related issues ever, great compression after years of trackdays. If you've got a car that gets real lifter-ticky after it comes off track or after a few autox runs - step up to a thicker oil. It's getting too thin when hot and can't keep the lifters pumped up.
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The M52 engine debuted around the time BMW introduced the LL-98 standard. That comprised mostly 5w/10w-40 oils. These engines do not work the oil that hard, really. They have a comparatively large sump.
Being in California, a 0w isn't going to be of much use.
I would perhaps suggest Rotella 5w40, a stout oil used by a number of E36 owners without hassle. A good synthetic 10w50 might also suffice. If neither of these interest you, look for an oil sporting ACEA A3/B4 at the least.
Being in California, a 0w isn't going to be of much use.
I would perhaps suggest Rotella 5w40, a stout oil used by a number of E36 owners without hassle. A good synthetic 10w50 might also suffice. If neither of these interest you, look for an oil sporting ACEA A3/B4 at the least.
edyvw
$50 site donor 2025
Originally Posted By: B320i
The M52 engine debuted around the time BMW introduced the LL-98 standard. That comprised mostly 5w/10w-40 oils. These engines do not work the oil that hard, really. They have a comparatively large sump.
Being in California, a 0w isn't going to be of much use.
I would perhaps suggest Rotella 5w40, a stout oil used by a number of E36 owners without hassle. A good synthetic 10w50 might also suffice. If neither of these interest you, look for an oil sporting ACEA A3/B4 at the least.
0W is totally irrelevant in lower 48 states. 5W or oW does not matter.
What matters is that Castrol 0W40 has NOACK of 9.1% while Rotella T6 has 12.4%. It matters that in all aspects Castrol 0W40 is better oil for passanger vehicles.
However, many are using T6 because it is thicker at 100c and helps with leaks, as well as fuel dilution (very popular with first gen. VW/Audi FSI engine owners). As for performance, it is not in same category as 0W40.
Like I said, forget 0W. Other parameters of that oil are what really matters.
The M52 engine debuted around the time BMW introduced the LL-98 standard. That comprised mostly 5w/10w-40 oils. These engines do not work the oil that hard, really. They have a comparatively large sump.
Being in California, a 0w isn't going to be of much use.
I would perhaps suggest Rotella 5w40, a stout oil used by a number of E36 owners without hassle. A good synthetic 10w50 might also suffice. If neither of these interest you, look for an oil sporting ACEA A3/B4 at the least.
0W is totally irrelevant in lower 48 states. 5W or oW does not matter.
What matters is that Castrol 0W40 has NOACK of 9.1% while Rotella T6 has 12.4%. It matters that in all aspects Castrol 0W40 is better oil for passanger vehicles.
However, many are using T6 because it is thicker at 100c and helps with leaks, as well as fuel dilution (very popular with first gen. VW/Audi FSI engine owners). As for performance, it is not in same category as 0W40.
Like I said, forget 0W. Other parameters of that oil are what really matters.
Well, earlier this evening I tried an Autozone and two Walmarts. All 3 stores were out of stock of the 0W-40.
The comment about the relationship between lifter tick and oil viscosity is very helpful. I definitely notice it more after driving hard, or after an Autox run. Im going to try the Castrol 0w-40 (will buy through Amazon). If Im still getting tick I will look for something more Viscous at 100 centigrade. Perhaps a 5W-40 or or 50 weight. What's the consensus on Motul 8100 X-Cess 5W-40?
I've heard people say that older cars tend to develop restriction in the oil passages, and a thicker oil can cause increased oil pressure. But I have also heard that older cars lose some of the tolerance (piston rings?) and tend to require thicker oils to compensate. Can someone clear this up? I don't have an oil pressure sensor on my car.
The comment about the relationship between lifter tick and oil viscosity is very helpful. I definitely notice it more after driving hard, or after an Autox run. Im going to try the Castrol 0w-40 (will buy through Amazon). If Im still getting tick I will look for something more Viscous at 100 centigrade. Perhaps a 5W-40 or or 50 weight. What's the consensus on Motul 8100 X-Cess 5W-40?
I've heard people say that older cars tend to develop restriction in the oil passages, and a thicker oil can cause increased oil pressure. But I have also heard that older cars lose some of the tolerance (piston rings?) and tend to require thicker oils to compensate. Can someone clear this up? I don't have an oil pressure sensor on my car.
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I have. That's what I use in my LSD. Too pricey for engine oil for my budget though.
Right now, Im trying to find a good reason to not go with Motul 8100 X-Cess. Im learning toward the idea that I need to go a bit thicker than my current Mobil 1 0W-40, and thicker than the Castrol 0W-40 that everyone here recommends. The HTHS viscosity beats the Castrol, and the price is about the same.
https://www.motul.com/system/product_descriptions/technical_data_sheets/2698/original/8100_X-cess_5W-40_%28GB%29.pdf?1375200241
Right now, Im trying to find a good reason to not go with Motul 8100 X-Cess. Im learning toward the idea that I need to go a bit thicker than my current Mobil 1 0W-40, and thicker than the Castrol 0W-40 that everyone here recommends. The HTHS viscosity beats the Castrol, and the price is about the same.
https://www.motul.com/system/product_descriptions/technical_data_sheets/2698/original/8100_X-cess_5W-40_%28GB%29.pdf?1375200241
edyvw
$50 site donor 2025
Originally Posted By: j12
I have. That's what I use in my LSD. Too pricey for engine oil for my budget though.
Right now, Im trying to find a good reason to not go with Motul 8100 X-Cess. Im learning toward the idea that I need to go a bit thicker than my current Mobil 1 0W-40, and thicker than the Castrol 0W-40 that everyone here recommends. The HTHS viscosity beats the Castrol, and the price is about the same.
https://www.motul.com/system/product_descriptions/technical_data_sheets/2698/original/8100_X-cess_5W-40_%28GB%29.pdf?1375200241
Both Motul X-Cess 5W40 and Castrol 0W40 have same HTHS of 3.7.
I have. That's what I use in my LSD. Too pricey for engine oil for my budget though.
Right now, Im trying to find a good reason to not go with Motul 8100 X-Cess. Im learning toward the idea that I need to go a bit thicker than my current Mobil 1 0W-40, and thicker than the Castrol 0W-40 that everyone here recommends. The HTHS viscosity beats the Castrol, and the price is about the same.
https://www.motul.com/system/product_descriptions/technical_data_sheets/2698/original/8100_X-cess_5W-40_%28GB%29.pdf?1375200241
Both Motul X-Cess 5W40 and Castrol 0W40 have same HTHS of 3.7.
If you are racing your car then it deserves racing oil. Modern LL-01 oils are good and they would probably be fine in your application since you are only AutoXing, but the optimal solution would be to use racing oil at the track, and then a good LL-01 (castrol 0w-40 for example) for the street.
Originally Posted By: edyvw
0W is totally irrelevant in lower 48 states. 5W or oW does not matter.
What matters is that Castrol 0W40 has NOACK of 9.1% while Rotella T6 has 12.4%. It matters that in all aspects Castrol 0W40 is better oil for passanger vehicles.
However, many are using T6 because it is thicker at 100c and helps with leaks, as well as fuel dilution (very popular with first gen. VW/Audi FSI engine owners). As for performance, it is not in same category as 0W40.
Like I said, forget 0W. Other parameters of that oil are what really matters.
You make a good point, although I think using a good synthetic at the correct grade trumps approval or the nitty-gritty details. Are the differences likely to matter that much?
You mention lifter tick. If this is solely on the track, that is a result of cornering forces moving oil away from the pickup. You can get "baffled" sumps to prevent this.
If the tick is any time other than cold, I'm afraid your out of luck. My 320i has ticked for 40,000km now, and has been run on M1 0w40 (when it had LL01), Rotella and finally Penrite 10w50. Rotella was quieter, but not by a huge amount. It seems to be a common complaint on these E36's.
Cold-start tick is nothing to worry about. Lifters draining away are another common niggle with the M50 and M52.
0W is totally irrelevant in lower 48 states. 5W or oW does not matter.
What matters is that Castrol 0W40 has NOACK of 9.1% while Rotella T6 has 12.4%. It matters that in all aspects Castrol 0W40 is better oil for passanger vehicles.
However, many are using T6 because it is thicker at 100c and helps with leaks, as well as fuel dilution (very popular with first gen. VW/Audi FSI engine owners). As for performance, it is not in same category as 0W40.
Like I said, forget 0W. Other parameters of that oil are what really matters.
You make a good point, although I think using a good synthetic at the correct grade trumps approval or the nitty-gritty details. Are the differences likely to matter that much?
You mention lifter tick. If this is solely on the track, that is a result of cornering forces moving oil away from the pickup. You can get "baffled" sumps to prevent this.
If the tick is any time other than cold, I'm afraid your out of luck. My 320i has ticked for 40,000km now, and has been run on M1 0w40 (when it had LL01), Rotella and finally Penrite 10w50. Rotella was quieter, but not by a huge amount. It seems to be a common complaint on these E36's.
Cold-start tick is nothing to worry about. Lifters draining away are another common niggle with the M50 and M52.
Originally Posted By: j12
Well, earlier this evening I tried an Autozone and two Walmarts. All 3 stores were out of stock of the 0W-40.
The comment about the relationship between lifter tick and oil viscosity is very helpful. I definitely notice it more after driving hard, or after an Autox run. Im going to try the Castrol 0w-40 (will buy through Amazon). If Im still getting tick I will look for something more Viscous at 100 centigrade. Perhaps a 5W-40 or or 50 weight. What's the consensus on Motul 8100 X-Cess 5W-40?
I've heard people say that older cars tend to develop restriction in the oil passages, and a thicker oil can cause increased oil pressure. But I have also heard that older cars lose some of the tolerance (piston rings?) and tend to require thicker oils to compensate. Can someone clear this up? I don't have an oil pressure sensor on my car.
If you're doing a lot of track stuff with an E36, it's probably time to get a little data in the car anyways. Either regular gauges (coolant temp, oil temp, oil pressure) or a cheap data system like a Race Capture. I'm sure you're well aware that the coolant temp gauge is buffered, and is essentially no better than an idiot light. Use oil temp & pressure to dictate what viscosity oil you run. Pop your valve cover and look inside. If it's fairly clean, then there is no 'oil restriction' to speak of. These engines have little to no main bearing wear, but depending on how they've been treated are known to wear rod bearings a bit. As another poster said, a baffled pan is a good idea, and I'd absolutely consider dropping the pan and safety wiring or tack welding the oil pump nut in place. If the pan is coming off, get a baffle from somebody like Turner or Achilles Motorsports. And if the pan isn't baffled - run your oil on track at .5-1 full quart over full to help prevent oil starvation. The effects of running over-full are nill compared to losing oil pressure in a high-G turns or braking (very common, for example, braking into T10a at Road Atlanta), these engines have an oil separator plate bolted to the main caps to help prevent oil churning by the crankshaft.
Any of the oils listed are good oils. For your question specifically about the 8100 X-Cess, I stock the 5W-40 for all the streetcars that we do. It's high quality and LL-01 approved, and I don't have to worry about any issues if it's a daily driver going 10k miles or getting autox'd the next day. Every engine is going to behave a little differently wrt what oil it prefers. A lot of it has to do with how they were treated in the beginning of their life by their dopey owners. Did they do 15-20k mile oil changes with junk BW 5w30 dealer oil for the first 100k? Or did somebody actually take care of them? Oil analysis, and temp/pressure readings should be what sets your oil range. Stop worrying about the specs. It's a nice starter to get you in the range of where you should be, but temp & pressure are key.
Well, earlier this evening I tried an Autozone and two Walmarts. All 3 stores were out of stock of the 0W-40.
The comment about the relationship between lifter tick and oil viscosity is very helpful. I definitely notice it more after driving hard, or after an Autox run. Im going to try the Castrol 0w-40 (will buy through Amazon). If Im still getting tick I will look for something more Viscous at 100 centigrade. Perhaps a 5W-40 or or 50 weight. What's the consensus on Motul 8100 X-Cess 5W-40?
I've heard people say that older cars tend to develop restriction in the oil passages, and a thicker oil can cause increased oil pressure. But I have also heard that older cars lose some of the tolerance (piston rings?) and tend to require thicker oils to compensate. Can someone clear this up? I don't have an oil pressure sensor on my car.
If you're doing a lot of track stuff with an E36, it's probably time to get a little data in the car anyways. Either regular gauges (coolant temp, oil temp, oil pressure) or a cheap data system like a Race Capture. I'm sure you're well aware that the coolant temp gauge is buffered, and is essentially no better than an idiot light. Use oil temp & pressure to dictate what viscosity oil you run. Pop your valve cover and look inside. If it's fairly clean, then there is no 'oil restriction' to speak of. These engines have little to no main bearing wear, but depending on how they've been treated are known to wear rod bearings a bit. As another poster said, a baffled pan is a good idea, and I'd absolutely consider dropping the pan and safety wiring or tack welding the oil pump nut in place. If the pan is coming off, get a baffle from somebody like Turner or Achilles Motorsports. And if the pan isn't baffled - run your oil on track at .5-1 full quart over full to help prevent oil starvation. The effects of running over-full are nill compared to losing oil pressure in a high-G turns or braking (very common, for example, braking into T10a at Road Atlanta), these engines have an oil separator plate bolted to the main caps to help prevent oil churning by the crankshaft.
Any of the oils listed are good oils. For your question specifically about the 8100 X-Cess, I stock the 5W-40 for all the streetcars that we do. It's high quality and LL-01 approved, and I don't have to worry about any issues if it's a daily driver going 10k miles or getting autox'd the next day. Every engine is going to behave a little differently wrt what oil it prefers. A lot of it has to do with how they were treated in the beginning of their life by their dopey owners. Did they do 15-20k mile oil changes with junk BW 5w30 dealer oil for the first 100k? Or did somebody actually take care of them? Oil analysis, and temp/pressure readings should be what sets your oil range. Stop worrying about the specs. It's a nice starter to get you in the range of where you should be, but temp & pressure are key.
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edyvw
$50 site donor 2025
Originally Posted By: B320i
Originally Posted By: edyvw
0W is totally irrelevant in lower 48 states. 5W or oW does not matter.
What matters is that Castrol 0W40 has NOACK of 9.1% while Rotella T6 has 12.4%. It matters that in all aspects Castrol 0W40 is better oil for passanger vehicles.
However, many are using T6 because it is thicker at 100c and helps with leaks, as well as fuel dilution (very popular with first gen. VW/Audi FSI engine owners). As for performance, it is not in same category as 0W40.
Like I said, forget 0W. Other parameters of that oil are what really matters.
You make a good point, although I think using a good synthetic at the correct grade trumps approval or the nitty-gritty details. Are the differences likely to matter that much?
You mention lifter tick. If this is solely on the track, that is a result of cornering forces moving oil away from the pickup. You can get "baffled" sumps to prevent this.
If the tick is any time other than cold, I'm afraid your out of luck. My 320i has ticked for 40,000km now, and has been run on M1 0w40 (when it had LL01), Rotella and finally Penrite 10w50. Rotella was quieter, but not by a huge amount. It seems to be a common complaint on these E36's.
Cold-start tick is nothing to worry about. Lifters draining away are another common niggle with the M50 and M52.
I am not sure lifter tick is solely solvable with thicker oil.
I had on Passat B5 1.8T lifter tick with Castrol 5W40 (POS made here) afetr 4K. Then I switched to castrol 0W30, and never had tick again.
As for M1 0W40, it is known to run bit noisier.
Originally Posted By: edyvw
0W is totally irrelevant in lower 48 states. 5W or oW does not matter.
What matters is that Castrol 0W40 has NOACK of 9.1% while Rotella T6 has 12.4%. It matters that in all aspects Castrol 0W40 is better oil for passanger vehicles.
However, many are using T6 because it is thicker at 100c and helps with leaks, as well as fuel dilution (very popular with first gen. VW/Audi FSI engine owners). As for performance, it is not in same category as 0W40.
Like I said, forget 0W. Other parameters of that oil are what really matters.
You make a good point, although I think using a good synthetic at the correct grade trumps approval or the nitty-gritty details. Are the differences likely to matter that much?
You mention lifter tick. If this is solely on the track, that is a result of cornering forces moving oil away from the pickup. You can get "baffled" sumps to prevent this.
If the tick is any time other than cold, I'm afraid your out of luck. My 320i has ticked for 40,000km now, and has been run on M1 0w40 (when it had LL01), Rotella and finally Penrite 10w50. Rotella was quieter, but not by a huge amount. It seems to be a common complaint on these E36's.
Cold-start tick is nothing to worry about. Lifters draining away are another common niggle with the M50 and M52.
I am not sure lifter tick is solely solvable with thicker oil.
I had on Passat B5 1.8T lifter tick with Castrol 5W40 (POS made here) afetr 4K. Then I switched to castrol 0W30, and never had tick again.
As for M1 0W40, it is known to run bit noisier.
Originally Posted By: edyvw
Originally Posted By: B320i
Originally Posted By: edyvw
0W is totally irrelevant in lower 48 states. 5W or oW does not matter.
What matters is that Castrol 0W40 has NOACK of 9.1% while Rotella T6 has 12.4%. It matters that in all aspects Castrol 0W40 is better oil for passanger vehicles.
However, many are using T6 because it is thicker at 100c and helps with leaks, as well as fuel dilution (very popular with first gen. VW/Audi FSI engine owners). As for performance, it is not in same category as 0W40.
Like I said, forget 0W. Other parameters of that oil are what really matters.
You make a good point, although I think using a good synthetic at the correct grade trumps approval or the nitty-gritty details. Are the differences likely to matter that much?
You mention lifter tick. If this is solely on the track, that is a result of cornering forces moving oil away from the pickup. You can get "baffled" sumps to prevent this.
If the tick is any time other than cold, I'm afraid your out of luck. My 320i has ticked for 40,000km now, and has been run on M1 0w40 (when it had LL01), Rotella and finally Penrite 10w50. Rotella was quieter, but not by a huge amount. It seems to be a common complaint on these E36's.
Cold-start tick is nothing to worry about. Lifters draining away are another common niggle with the M50 and M52.
I am not sure lifter tick is solely solvable with thicker oil.
I had on Passat B5 1.8T lifter tick with Castrol 5W40 (POS made here) afetr 4K. Then I switched to castrol 0W30, and never had tick again.
As for M1 0W40, it is known to run bit noisier.
The lifter tick OP is talking about on these engines is from the effects of both hard driving/cornering and a slight bit of oil starvation, and worn lifters. As the oil gets hot and thins out, the lifters tick after the 3rd or 4th autox run, or after a 20 minute DE session. Sometimes a thicker oil will help alleviate the issue.
Originally Posted By: B320i
Originally Posted By: edyvw
0W is totally irrelevant in lower 48 states. 5W or oW does not matter.
What matters is that Castrol 0W40 has NOACK of 9.1% while Rotella T6 has 12.4%. It matters that in all aspects Castrol 0W40 is better oil for passanger vehicles.
However, many are using T6 because it is thicker at 100c and helps with leaks, as well as fuel dilution (very popular with first gen. VW/Audi FSI engine owners). As for performance, it is not in same category as 0W40.
Like I said, forget 0W. Other parameters of that oil are what really matters.
You make a good point, although I think using a good synthetic at the correct grade trumps approval or the nitty-gritty details. Are the differences likely to matter that much?
You mention lifter tick. If this is solely on the track, that is a result of cornering forces moving oil away from the pickup. You can get "baffled" sumps to prevent this.
If the tick is any time other than cold, I'm afraid your out of luck. My 320i has ticked for 40,000km now, and has been run on M1 0w40 (when it had LL01), Rotella and finally Penrite 10w50. Rotella was quieter, but not by a huge amount. It seems to be a common complaint on these E36's.
Cold-start tick is nothing to worry about. Lifters draining away are another common niggle with the M50 and M52.
I am not sure lifter tick is solely solvable with thicker oil.
I had on Passat B5 1.8T lifter tick with Castrol 5W40 (POS made here) afetr 4K. Then I switched to castrol 0W30, and never had tick again.
As for M1 0W40, it is known to run bit noisier.
The lifter tick OP is talking about on these engines is from the effects of both hard driving/cornering and a slight bit of oil starvation, and worn lifters. As the oil gets hot and thins out, the lifters tick after the 3rd or 4th autox run, or after a 20 minute DE session. Sometimes a thicker oil will help alleviate the issue.
Lot's of good info being shared. Much appreciated.
I autocross every event (usually one every 1.5 months). After a few runs is when the lifter tick is at its worst, but I hear a mild tick pretty much at all times.
Some people say Mobil 1 15W-50 is the cure for lifter tick but that sounds pretty thick to me. Then again, its pretty much in line with the viscosity of the conventional oil recommended in the manual. Oil technology Im sure has changed drastically in the last 20 years so I don't know how relevant that information is. Either way I assume it would make the car feel more sluggish.
Castrol Edge 10W-40 high mileage seems like it may be a good option down the road, but as far as I can tell nobody sells it (yet?).
I autocross every event (usually one every 1.5 months). After a few runs is when the lifter tick is at its worst, but I hear a mild tick pretty much at all times.
Some people say Mobil 1 15W-50 is the cure for lifter tick but that sounds pretty thick to me. Then again, its pretty much in line with the viscosity of the conventional oil recommended in the manual. Oil technology Im sure has changed drastically in the last 20 years so I don't know how relevant that information is. Either way I assume it would make the car feel more sluggish.
Castrol Edge 10W-40 high mileage seems like it may be a good option down the road, but as far as I can tell nobody sells it (yet?).
The Castrol Edge 10W-40 High Mileage is actually on sale right now, locally for $5.50. Thoughts?
http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/castrol-edge-hm-10w-40-1-qt-06171/11153328-P?searchTerm=10w-40
Right now its between that, the Castrol 0W-40, and Motul. The latter of the two are currently out of stock/online only.
http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/castrol-edge-hm-10w-40-1-qt-06171/11153328-P?searchTerm=10w-40
Right now its between that, the Castrol 0W-40, and Motul. The latter of the two are currently out of stock/online only.
Originally Posted By: j12
The Castrol Edge 10W-40 High Mileage is actually on sale right now, locally for $5.50. Thoughts?
http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/castrol-edge-hm-10w-40-1-qt-06171/11153328-P?searchTerm=10w-40
Right now its between that, the Castrol 0W-40, and Motul. The latter of the two are currently out of stock/online only.
I would go for the Castrol 0W-40. If you aren't going to use a racing oil for your auto-x events, then at least stick with a solid LL-01 oil. The new fluid titanium technology in the Castrol EDGE seems pretty promising and I have yet to see a bad UOA with that oil. They use fluid titanium in their Supercar oils, FWIW.
The Castrol Edge 10W-40 High Mileage is actually on sale right now, locally for $5.50. Thoughts?
http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/castrol-edge-hm-10w-40-1-qt-06171/11153328-P?searchTerm=10w-40
Right now its between that, the Castrol 0W-40, and Motul. The latter of the two are currently out of stock/online only.
I would go for the Castrol 0W-40. If you aren't going to use a racing oil for your auto-x events, then at least stick with a solid LL-01 oil. The new fluid titanium technology in the Castrol EDGE seems pretty promising and I have yet to see a bad UOA with that oil. They use fluid titanium in their Supercar oils, FWIW.
edyvw
$50 site donor 2025
Originally Posted By: 1JZ_E46
Originally Posted By: j12
The Castrol Edge 10W-40 High Mileage is actually on sale right now, locally for $5.50. Thoughts?
http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/castrol-edge-hm-10w-40-1-qt-06171/11153328-P?searchTerm=10w-40
Right now its between that, the Castrol 0W-40, and Motul. The latter of the two are currently out of stock/online only.
I would go for the Castrol 0W-40. If you aren't going to use a racing oil for your auto-x events, then at least stick with a solid LL-01 oil. The new fluid titanium technology in the Castrol EDGE seems pretty promising and I have yet to see a bad UOA with that oil. They use fluid titanium in their Supercar oils, FWIW.
0W40 is PAO based oil, and regardless that 10W40 is thicker at 100c, 0W40 will take beating better.
Like you said, if not going with something like Motul V300, then there are really only two readily accessible W40 oils that are above rest of the crowd, Castrol 0W40 and Mobil1 0W40.
Originally Posted By: j12
The Castrol Edge 10W-40 High Mileage is actually on sale right now, locally for $5.50. Thoughts?
http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/castrol-edge-hm-10w-40-1-qt-06171/11153328-P?searchTerm=10w-40
Right now its between that, the Castrol 0W-40, and Motul. The latter of the two are currently out of stock/online only.
I would go for the Castrol 0W-40. If you aren't going to use a racing oil for your auto-x events, then at least stick with a solid LL-01 oil. The new fluid titanium technology in the Castrol EDGE seems pretty promising and I have yet to see a bad UOA with that oil. They use fluid titanium in their Supercar oils, FWIW.
0W40 is PAO based oil, and regardless that 10W40 is thicker at 100c, 0W40 will take beating better.
Like you said, if not going with something like Motul V300, then there are really only two readily accessible W40 oils that are above rest of the crowd, Castrol 0W40 and Mobil1 0W40.
Originally Posted By: "KenO"
Did they do 15-20k mile oil changes with junk BW 5w30 dealer oil for the first 100k? Or did somebody actually take care of them? Oil analysis, and temp/pressure readings should be what sets your oil range. Stop worrying about the specs. It's a nice starter to get you in the range of where you should be, but temp & pressure are key.
You might be surprised to note the E36 never had a servicing interval approaching those figures. Earlier examples are about 7,500 miles, later examples (after Special Oils were introduced) increased to 9,320 miles. Back then, BMW's Dealer oil was a 5w-40, probably rebadged Castrol as the 5w30 was until recently.
I agree with your post though that watching your oil levels, pressure, temperatures & water temperatures are far more likely to assist keeping an E36 running nicely.
Did they do 15-20k mile oil changes with junk BW 5w30 dealer oil for the first 100k? Or did somebody actually take care of them? Oil analysis, and temp/pressure readings should be what sets your oil range. Stop worrying about the specs. It's a nice starter to get you in the range of where you should be, but temp & pressure are key.
You might be surprised to note the E36 never had a servicing interval approaching those figures. Earlier examples are about 7,500 miles, later examples (after Special Oils were introduced) increased to 9,320 miles. Back then, BMW's Dealer oil was a 5w-40, probably rebadged Castrol as the 5w30 was until recently.
I agree with your post though that watching your oil levels, pressure, temperatures & water temperatures are far more likely to assist keeping an E36 running nicely.
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