Great clenaer for 2 strokes

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Bluestream and Boratious, You have never heard of a stuck ring on a 2 cycle? Wow, Much of the stuff I fix (My buddy brings me cast aways from his cemetary dumpster that I donate to churches and charities) Are froze rings from from lean sieze.
The help forums I go to for 2 cycle repair advice from repairman, many reapirs are due to stuck or broke ringsfrom lean mixture. It is not the same as long term build up in a 4cycle, but an immidiate carbon cook from to much air in the fuel mix.

Cheaper OPE often set up bad from the factory, and no dealer support, or Tim the tool man adjustments to 2 cylces, lead to lean sieze in fairly new equipment.
 
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I've seen rings coked up solid in the grooves on very old two cycle engines. I mean 35 to 40 year old machines. I've not seen any recent two cycle engines exhibit ring problems.

Usually, if there's an engine seizure, it's the piston seized in the bore. I've yet to come across just the rings seized in the piston.

So, tell us, did SeaFoam or any other fuel additive cure the seized rings in the engines you've worked on?
 
Originally Posted By: Quest
Originally Posted By: chevman4life
Bob is the Oil guy is a forum to people to talk about oil related subjects, doesn't say anything about you have ot have scientific evidence. Most of it is personal opinion and experience.


I beg to differ: afterall: I worked very hard to acquire/obtain as close to the truth in terms of information as possible, not just some stoopid unproven hearsays from who-knows who.

Been a certified mech (no longer practicing, don't need to sweat over public customers who treat you like scarmbags and so on) for over 2 decades and frankly am sick and tired of all the unproven subjective opinions and observations. I'm all for the real thing, with research-grade test results (repeatable) to prove. So don't sell me on some stoddard solvent formula as UCL (I pretty much dispute/doubt UCL's effectiveness in modern engines right from the beginning anyways).

Q.



Dude---you've made 4189 post in the wrong forum!
 
Originally Posted By: Panzerman
Although I ussually agree with Boraticus, I will have to say I had good luck on a highly carboned two stroke and Sea Foam, doing a piston soak. I have done the same soak methods as him and have had Sea Foam work on disolving carbon. I would like to get hold of some of this Areokroil stuff and try it out. I apprieate any onservations or tests done by members. If it works I like to know. There are so many gimmicks out there.


It seems to really help the performance of finicky 2 cycles, using a 10 second burst of spray into the tank, lets try not to ruffle any feathers in the description, when an engine is running at a level less than optimal-
 
Originally Posted By: hate2work

Boraticus, you're sure one to talk about spreading unsubstantiated/false information LOL Just a few weeks ago you were telling everyone that the engine determined the oil ratio in a two stroke, when in fact it's the oil that determines the ratio. That really cracked me up
crackmeup2.gif



[snip]


If that was entirely correct would you like to hazard a guess how long a high HP air cooled kart engine, either piston, reed or rotary would survive on, say, Stihl HP Ultra @ 50:1 ?

I'd hazard about one lap at racing speeds, if it made it the length of the main straight before skirt seizure or big end failure.
Mix it at around 16:1 and it might finish a race.
Use a dedicated race oil like Elf HTX 909, Castrol A747 or XR77, Maxima 927, etc @ 16-20:1 and it would last several races easily before needing a rebuild.

BTW, Husqvarna in Australia have always maintained, and it's listed in the manual that any of their saws over 90cc, ie. the 390, 395 and 3120 use a mix ratio of 33:1 or warranty is void, even when using Husky XP oil, the exact same blend as used in the US.

husky395mixratio.jpg



My point is that yes, oils are designed or have a certain level of additives for a rough mix ratio, but the application they are used in ultimately determines the actual mix ratio.

Anyway, this has gone way OT.
 
Do not use any 2 stroke oil that has any Castor bean oil added. Caster oil is a really good lub and smells really nice. It will produce heavy carbon deposits on the top of the piston and in the exhaust ports and in the ring grooves on the piston. The rings will stick and loss of compression will occur.
 
Originally Posted By: steve20
thanks for the support guys-just trying to pass on what worked for me on a late Saturday afternoon-that you may be able to use on a late Saturday afternoon of your own in the future


Thanks for passing this on.

Some of the guys on this board think they are oil engineers and need to chill out...
 
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