I picked up a 2000 Miata to be a dedicated track car. These cars are known to lose wheels when the hubs fail... the fix many Spec Miata racers do is to take apart the sealed hub bearing assembly, remove all the balls and races, and repack with a better grease. Part of the problem is off-the-shelf bearings have relatively thin grease, and not enough of it to last hours at 350-400F+.
The two most popular greases are the Amsoil Dominator... which is not available locally, must order for $14/tube + shipping.
https://www.amsoil.com/lit/databulletins/g3155.pdf
...and the Redline CV-2, which I can get through O'Reilly's for $13/tube.
https://www.redlineoil.com/product.aspx?pid=82
Other greases I can get ahold of locally and have heard good things about are Royal Purple UPG, which I can get through work for $12.50/tube:
https://www.carid.com/images/royal-purpl...grease-info.pdf
There's also Castrol Pyroplex Blue #2 which I can get silly cheap for $4.50/tube. I didn't find anybody using this in racing type applications, but seems liked for offroad trucks/Jeeps etc for it's resistance to water/contamination:
http://catalog.parentpetroleum.com/Asset/Castrol Pyroplex Blue 2015.pdf
And then just recently I came across a long thread on another road racing forum where many people were swearing by Valvoline Synpower grease... pretty inexpensive stuff you can get at most parts stores for $7-8.
http://content.valvoline.com/pdf/synpower_grease.pdf
One last one that really intrigues me, and I can't seem to find any firsthand info on is Lubriplate Synxtreme HD-2...
https://www.lubriplate.com/PDFs/PDS/3_43-Synxtreme_HD_220-Series.aspx
This stuff would run about $18/tube through work. Probably not worth the cost, especially over the known good stuff... but it interests me.
Things the know about the Miata application is the brakes will get hot because the rotors are small, they are ball bearings, and the seal on the back side of the hub is known to not be so great at actually keeping dirt/brake dust contaminants out... it's generally the inner bearing grease that melts/dries out/migrates away because of this.
I've posted whatever data sheets I could find for the products above... but after my experience with a certain purple ceramic brake lube rated to 3000F... only to have the caliper slide pins seize after two days of daily driving(carrier dried up it seems)... I don't particularly care about the numbers on paper in all cases when practical experience shows otherwise. I went back to tried and true Sil-Glyde and no problems since... so let's keep the topic of this thread on greases as they pertain to wheel hubs at 130mph
The two most popular greases are the Amsoil Dominator... which is not available locally, must order for $14/tube + shipping.
https://www.amsoil.com/lit/databulletins/g3155.pdf
...and the Redline CV-2, which I can get through O'Reilly's for $13/tube.
https://www.redlineoil.com/product.aspx?pid=82
Other greases I can get ahold of locally and have heard good things about are Royal Purple UPG, which I can get through work for $12.50/tube:
https://www.carid.com/images/royal-purpl...grease-info.pdf
There's also Castrol Pyroplex Blue #2 which I can get silly cheap for $4.50/tube. I didn't find anybody using this in racing type applications, but seems liked for offroad trucks/Jeeps etc for it's resistance to water/contamination:
http://catalog.parentpetroleum.com/Asset/Castrol Pyroplex Blue 2015.pdf
And then just recently I came across a long thread on another road racing forum where many people were swearing by Valvoline Synpower grease... pretty inexpensive stuff you can get at most parts stores for $7-8.
http://content.valvoline.com/pdf/synpower_grease.pdf
One last one that really intrigues me, and I can't seem to find any firsthand info on is Lubriplate Synxtreme HD-2...
https://www.lubriplate.com/PDFs/PDS/3_43-Synxtreme_HD_220-Series.aspx
This stuff would run about $18/tube through work. Probably not worth the cost, especially over the known good stuff... but it interests me.
Things the know about the Miata application is the brakes will get hot because the rotors are small, they are ball bearings, and the seal on the back side of the hub is known to not be so great at actually keeping dirt/brake dust contaminants out... it's generally the inner bearing grease that melts/dries out/migrates away because of this.
I've posted whatever data sheets I could find for the products above... but after my experience with a certain purple ceramic brake lube rated to 3000F... only to have the caliper slide pins seize after two days of daily driving(carrier dried up it seems)... I don't particularly care about the numbers on paper in all cases when practical experience shows otherwise. I went back to tried and true Sil-Glyde and no problems since... so let's keep the topic of this thread on greases as they pertain to wheel hubs at 130mph
