Grease for Strut Mounts

[Gearguy24]

I just replced my front strut mounts on my toyota MR2 and was wondering if anyone knew what kind of grease I should use with them? Would white lithium grease be ok?

 

[pickled]

I don't know for sure, but for an application like that something with at least a GC rating on the label should be used. I have some lucas and amsoil grease that is made for heavy equipment that shows low fretting wear that get used in these situations. Good luck!

 

[Kestas]

One good grease would be Kluberplex BEM 34-132. It's a calcium-based grease designed for micromotion (fretting-prone) applications, has good elevated temperature properties, excellent resistance to water washout, and a long service life.

 

[pickled]

Sounds like a winner to me.

 

[Gearguy24]

Thanks guys. By the way where can I get that kluberplex stuff? Is there any chance I could order it at say napa or advance auto parts?

Oh one other thing. Would that be good for a sealed ball joint as well? (Long story short I sqeazed some of the grease out. The ball joint is fine though)

 

[Kestas]

http://www.calmoto.com/SHOP/82000419622.html

I'm not so sure it's a good choice for the ball joint. You'd be mixing different soap bases, which is not wise to do.

 

[Gearguy24]

What's in a sealed ball joint? I've been trying to figure that out for quite awhile now but the only information I can find on them is people screaming about not refilling them because they are sealed... Which is stupid because as I've proven you can get the grease out on accident when both the ball joint and boot are in perfect working order.

Thanks for the link as well though.

 

[Kestas]

The most popular chassis lubes are made with lithium-based soaps. This seems to be universal for chassis lube points with zerk fittings.

Just a guess, but when the item is sealed and non-serviceable, the manufacturer may take liberties with the grease and use anything that works for them.

 

[Gearguy24]

Yeah that's what got me banging my head. I can't figure out what kind of grease it is if my life depended on it...

*sigh* I think I'm just going to get some lithium complex grease from amsoil if at all possible... Here is to hoping they don't have a calcium complex grease in there.

By the way the chart you guys have stickied is freaking amazing.

http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/greasechart.htm

 

[ac_tc]

Dont use ballbearing grease, to thin and it will escape.
Use chassis grease (avail at any car service) like mopar multi mileage witch is a long fiber "thick" grease that will stay in the joint. also agricultural or traktor universal grease will fit the bill. A marine type is also ok. the key here is to get the grease to stay and then relube once a year or so forcing the old dirty out.

 

[Kestas]

Actually, the opposite is true in micromotion applications. You want to use a light ball bearing grease as opposed to a heavy grease. Heavy grease will get squeezed to the sides where it's not needed, light grease will stay and flow on the surfaces where it's needed for lubrication.

The Kluberplex BEM 34-132 I recommended is an NLGI 1.5, which is lighter than chassis grease (NLGI 2), and the product data sheet specifically recommends it in micromotion applications.

 

[Tempest]

Most of the Amsoil greases seem to have good Fretting Wear scores.

 

[gamefoo21]

I cheated... I was out in the boon docks, had nothing on hand, so I took some spray on graphite lube, turned the washers that the bearing rides on black, took some syncomesh, and wet the bearing(not alot of space to fill). Wheels turn easy as can be, no squeaks to speak of.