Yep. Our water is fine right out of the well. We do not have any filtration of any kind.First, ground conditions in Cali or Fla or Ga will be no help in Erie PA. The wells I had 100 miles south of you in PA won't tell you anything, different geology. Best bet is to talk with a well driller familiar with your area, they'll know exactly whats happening. If you don't want to do that talk with as many neighbors with wells as you can. It may need cleaned out. Is it possible in the area to use straight well water or does it need treated? Where I lived all well water had to be treated.
What WJ said
Got water well up and running, not good.
- Thread starter Fordiesel69
- Start date
There are flow restrictors, but we don't have one and I don't know exactly where in the system they go, but I think before the pressure tank switch. You'll have to do some research.
Also probably you have way more pump than you need. I found this which may help https://oakvillepump.com/blog/2019/6/17/can-i-just-put-any-submersible-pump-in-my-well
But a restrictor should slow it down to something more reasonable as I think your pump is capable of over 20gpm when the well is mostly full.
As the well level goes down, the pressure difference between the well base and the surrounding aquifer goes higher and higher so it could pull in more sediment.
AZjeff
$50 Site Donor 2023
That's nice but I was asking OP. Many areas of Pa have high iron, minerals, sediment, etc in well water that has to be treated to be usable.
I sometimes wonder how my health/growth was affected, if at all, by the well water I drank for my first 15 years of life, before we got connected to the muni supply. I grew up surrounded by cattle farms + corn and cotton fields, so there's no telling what was in that rural North AL well water.
AZjeff
$50 Site Donor 2023
It strengthened your immune system
I've been using untreated well water since the mid 1970s. Deep in the heart of corn country.
With a globe valve one pipe size smaller piped in the bottom ,throttle flow down. Globe valve does a better job than agate or ball valve. Running a pump dry will damage the pump seal and over heat the motor.
Wow, that is a 4" well casing? Mine did 11GPM when the county came to "certify" it.
Ummm, was the municipal supply not from a well?
I've seen houses fed by a shallow well though, would assume those would be much more subject to ground water infiltration.
Mine is a shallow well pump in a 125ft well. Unfortunately they buried the thing and I want it dug up and brought to the surface, blown out and a new pump.
Been looking all summer and get either no shows or now goes. It starts cavitating and drops to 20 lbs if I draw too much on it. Use to give me full flow out of a 3/4" garden hose at 50 lb.
Been looking all summer and get either no shows or now goes. It starts cavitating and drops to 20 lbs if I draw too much on it. Use to give me full flow out of a 3/4" garden hose at 50 lb.
Have you ever had it tested to see if it is contaminated?
The county I lived in got it's water from a variety of sources, wells being one of them. That water was treated/filtered before reaching our home, whereas the water from our own well was neither treated nor filtered.
Nope.
You're probably better off for it. You don't want to know what's been found floating in municipal water towers, they have to be vented... animals, bugs, etc, stuff gets in....
That is the main reason they add chlorine.
Then there's the fluoride which is controversial
I believe we were originally designed to drink from puddles and what not. A well should be fine compared to whats above ground.
Chlorine is to cover their butt, and you can keep your fluoride. I've had the standard local county test for nitrates and E.coli. But that's it. Many people in the area drawing off the aquifer. Ntrates are for young children and nitrogen fertilizer.
I know right. That's why I just drag my kills into a hole in the ground and toss some salt over them. I wanna live like great great great great great great great great great great great great great great great great great great great great great grandpa Zogg.
I worked for a water bottler that used city water. There were times we had to call them up and say this or that was out of whack...
Then the local spring water they had trucked in. But all got the O3 treatment before the filling. The plasticizer in the bottle. is the reason for the expiration date.
Hydrogen Peroxide is a great way to clean up and sterilize water.
Then the local spring water they had trucked in. But all got the O3 treatment before the filling. The plasticizer in the bottle. is the reason for the expiration date.
Hydrogen Peroxide is a great way to clean up and sterilize water.
AZjeff,
Yes in erie pa and surrounding areas our wells have lots of iron, calcium, manganeese, and sulfer. It seems the deeper we go the worse it is. We have not had this tested yet as it is so terrible. I just know when the water is semi clear with an odor, a nice cheap filter housing will fix the problem. Murky mud water, or grey clay water seems to require a really expensive resin tank with backwashing capabilities.
Update:
The pump supply wholesaler happens to be very knowledgable, and had stated (like what was mentioned above that we have done enough wide open pumpouts, and that this needed to stop. They suggested getting the pluming done, and open a valve at approx 0.5 ~ 1.0 gal per minute for 24hrs. This will drain down the aquifer at a controlled rate and stop the sediment migration.
Yes in erie pa and surrounding areas our wells have lots of iron, calcium, manganeese, and sulfer. It seems the deeper we go the worse it is. We have not had this tested yet as it is so terrible. I just know when the water is semi clear with an odor, a nice cheap filter housing will fix the problem. Murky mud water, or grey clay water seems to require a really expensive resin tank with backwashing capabilities.
Update:
The pump supply wholesaler happens to be very knowledgable, and had stated (like what was mentioned above that we have done enough wide open pumpouts, and that this needed to stop. They suggested getting the pluming done, and open a valve at approx 0.5 ~ 1.0 gal per minute for 24hrs. This will drain down the aquifer at a controlled rate and stop the sediment migration.
Update #2:
As walterjay had mentioned, and also the advise of the local pump wholesaler, I let a garden hose run real slow at 0.5 gal per minute and I let it run for two 12 hr long runs. (I did not want it running all night with no supervison on the property.) The visible grey silt and cloudyness has resolved itself. I just need to take a water sample and see what kind of filter is required.
As walterjay had mentioned, and also the advise of the local pump wholesaler, I let a garden hose run real slow at 0.5 gal per minute and I let it run for two 12 hr long runs. (I did not want it running all night with no supervison on the property.) The visible grey silt and cloudyness has resolved itself. I just need to take a water sample and see what kind of filter is required.
