I've seen much, much better ABS operation using DOT 5.1 fluid. I believe it's twice as thin as DOT 4. My ABS is the limiting factor in my braking. Even with the sticky Nitto NT05 tires, the ABS seems too conservative. With the 5.1, it seems to really take it closer to the traction limit. With DOT 4 and the ABS fuse pulled, I could beat the ABS from 60mph by 15+ feet.
Good Brake Fluid Opinions
- Thread starter 4x4taco
- Start date
- Status
I have the valvoline brake fluid in my vehicle.
The Synpower is not listed on their website....however when I clicked for the data sheet for the data sheet.....it lists the synpower with a dry boil point of 503F and wet boil point of 343F
The "Synthetic DOT 3&4" product lists a dry boil point of "Up to" 480F.
My last bleed was with the "synthetic" so I have a mix of "Synpower" and the synthetic DOT 3&4.
I am SURE that this product is good enough for my daily driver.
Looking on the Pegasusautoracing website, under "fluids and supplies", brake fluid.....
These are DOT4 and compatible with other DOT 3, 4 & 5.1 fluids.
DOT 5 (no .1) is not compatible with these fluids......
They have the Castrol SRF (DOT4) in 1 liter container for $79.99
Dry boil of 590F Wet boil of 518F
The ATE that Dualie mentions, comes in "Super Blue" (blue color) and "Type 200" (amber color), Identical other than color so that you can alternate between colors when doing a full system bleed.....and you can know when you get the new stuff out the bleed screw.
$14.99 for 1 liter container (both DOT4)
Dry boil of 536F Wet boil of 396F
They have other kinds also.....listed in a table.
You pretty much need to get these from a racing supply house.
Some brands of fluid claim "Low moisture absorbtion properties" or as having moisture handling capabilities.
It is a normal tendancy for brake fluid to absorb moisture.
For this reason, it is best to use fluid from a new bottle.....not one that has been opened and sitting around the garage for who knows how long.
Folks who run their cars at the track often bleed their brakes between each run.
For my daily driver, I like to bleed my brakes at least every other year.
The Synpower is not listed on their website....however when I clicked for the data sheet for the data sheet.....it lists the synpower with a dry boil point of 503F and wet boil point of 343F
The "Synthetic DOT 3&4" product lists a dry boil point of "Up to" 480F.
My last bleed was with the "synthetic" so I have a mix of "Synpower" and the synthetic DOT 3&4.
I am SURE that this product is good enough for my daily driver.
Looking on the Pegasusautoracing website, under "fluids and supplies", brake fluid.....
These are DOT4 and compatible with other DOT 3, 4 & 5.1 fluids.
DOT 5 (no .1) is not compatible with these fluids......
They have the Castrol SRF (DOT4) in 1 liter container for $79.99
Dry boil of 590F Wet boil of 518F
The ATE that Dualie mentions, comes in "Super Blue" (blue color) and "Type 200" (amber color), Identical other than color so that you can alternate between colors when doing a full system bleed.....and you can know when you get the new stuff out the bleed screw.
$14.99 for 1 liter container (both DOT4)
Dry boil of 536F Wet boil of 396F
They have other kinds also.....listed in a table.
You pretty much need to get these from a racing supply house.
Some brands of fluid claim "Low moisture absorbtion properties" or as having moisture handling capabilities.
It is a normal tendancy for brake fluid to absorb moisture.
For this reason, it is best to use fluid from a new bottle.....not one that has been opened and sitting around the garage for who knows how long.
Folks who run their cars at the track often bleed their brakes between each run.
For my daily driver, I like to bleed my brakes at least every other year.
Jumping back in with a lesson I learned.....just in case there is still anyone out there who was as out of date as I was.
I had always assumed that a brake fluid bleed was part of a brake job, when you had the brakes done...they would bleed the fluid...refilling with fresh fluid.
Reading up....I found that the shop manual states to remove 1/2 of the brake fluid from the master cylinder....leave the cap off and push the caliper piston back in....pushing the brake fluid back up into the master cylinder......
NO BRAKE FLUID BLEED.
Once I read this.... I got a bunch of brake fluid, started at the rear passenger side ......and bled the fluid from each wheel.....the first large amount that came out of each wheel was super dark.....looking like coffee.
Now that I am doing my own brake jobs.....and bleed them at least every other year otherwise....it is not an issue.
For those who take their vehicle to a shop for a brake job....
If you want the brake fluid bled.....you will need to specify this when you take it in.....as it is often not a part of the brake job.
I had always assumed that a brake fluid bleed was part of a brake job, when you had the brakes done...they would bleed the fluid...refilling with fresh fluid.
Reading up....I found that the shop manual states to remove 1/2 of the brake fluid from the master cylinder....leave the cap off and push the caliper piston back in....pushing the brake fluid back up into the master cylinder......
NO BRAKE FLUID BLEED.
Once I read this.... I got a bunch of brake fluid, started at the rear passenger side ......and bled the fluid from each wheel.....the first large amount that came out of each wheel was super dark.....looking like coffee.
Now that I am doing my own brake jobs.....and bleed them at least every other year otherwise....it is not an issue.
For those who take their vehicle to a shop for a brake job....
If you want the brake fluid bled.....you will need to specify this when you take it in.....as it is often not a part of the brake job.
Originally Posted By: wiswind
I found that the shop manual states to remove 1/2 of the brake fluid from the master cylinder....leave the cap off and push the caliper piston back in....pushing the brake fluid back up into the master cylinder......
That's just nasty, all it does is push contaminants back up the lines into the MC.
Whenever I do a pad change, I crack the bleed nipples and push the pads back in so the excess fluid is pushed out into my catch bottle then close off the bleeds.
If I'm not doing a fluid I'll do a re-bleed JIC, although there is never any air that comes out.
I found that the shop manual states to remove 1/2 of the brake fluid from the master cylinder....leave the cap off and push the caliper piston back in....pushing the brake fluid back up into the master cylinder......
That's just nasty, all it does is push contaminants back up the lines into the MC.
Whenever I do a pad change, I crack the bleed nipples and push the pads back in so the excess fluid is pushed out into my catch bottle then close off the bleeds.
If I'm not doing a fluid I'll do a re-bleed JIC, although there is never any air that comes out.
Back to the original question:
In the past, Motorcraft Dot 3 fluid was touted on many high performance sites as a "better" brake fluid.
There are hints that maybe today's product has been changed. The Ford site shows a "MINIMUM" dry boiling point of 500 degrees F.
http://www.fcsdchemicalsandlubricants.co...ance%20Products
Other literature at many sites implies that it has/had a dry boiling point of 550 degrees F.
http://www.latemodelrestoration.com/item/PM1C
I will leave it to you to research the answer. Even at 500 degrees F, it seems to be better than many other over the counter products.
FYI, I took brake fluid off my list of "things to worry about" and use Prestone DOT 3 because it is most available.
In the past, Motorcraft Dot 3 fluid was touted on many high performance sites as a "better" brake fluid.
There are hints that maybe today's product has been changed. The Ford site shows a "MINIMUM" dry boiling point of 500 degrees F.
http://www.fcsdchemicalsandlubricants.co...ance%20Products
Other literature at many sites implies that it has/had a dry boiling point of 550 degrees F.
http://www.latemodelrestoration.com/item/PM1C
I will leave it to you to research the answer. Even at 500 degrees F, it seems to be better than many other over the counter products.
FYI, I took brake fluid off my list of "things to worry about" and use Prestone DOT 3 because it is most available.
One of the best all around'ers is Castrol LMA Dot 4. Its not hard to find either, and is in expensive.
I've boiled my brake fluid a number of times at local track events but only once during normal driving. It was coming down one [censored] of a mountain where I was riding the brake most of the time.
I've used a number of high dry-point fluids (GS610, Motul, etc) and for the most part haven't been able to tell the difference between them. Castrol SRF stands out due to it's high wet boiling point, though. For the occasion track goer or autoxer you can go until the fluid gets dirty instead of when it does off due to water absorption. Unless you're really torturing the fluid it's overkill, though.
I've used a number of high dry-point fluids (GS610, Motul, etc) and for the most part haven't been able to tell the difference between them. Castrol SRF stands out due to it's high wet boiling point, though. For the occasion track goer or autoxer you can go until the fluid gets dirty instead of when it does off due to water absorption. Unless you're really torturing the fluid it's overkill, though.
- Status
