I'm the guy that used them to start fires. I found another way. I recently made a crusher for oil filters with a hydraulic bottle jack. I can now squeeze most of the oil out of the TP roll. P.S. even squeezed nearly dry, they will still burn.
Going to install homemade bypass filter setup...
- Thread starter wcbcruzer
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Well... I always dump my used oil filters at WalMart. I would think that a saturated tp roll in the trash could be bad for the local water supply, but I guess it's not as bad as people pouring their used motor oil in their backyard.
YMMV. For example, I MUST put my spent oil bottles in the normal trash since they're not allowed to be recycled here. There is no mandated filter recycling that I'm aware of ..nor do I know of any place that accepts them. Even the garages throw them in the trash. I'm sure if they're a larger operation they have a crusher to recover as much residual oil as possible ..but I don't think that there's any special handling for the carcasses. Some have commercial oil filter cutters that allow you to separate the metal components ..but I still think the saturated media hits the landfill.
Heck, here, most of the plastics go to the landfill too. You end up paying the waste hauler to collect aluminum. This program was instituted to "create a material stream" for future recycling.
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Amsoil charges whatever the tax is where you are at. They pay it to the state where you live. Everyone is supposed to do this. In Amsoil's case, I'm sure that there have been a few court cases seeking sales tax from dealers and/or Amsoil where non had been collected or paid. Hence, unless you've got a retail tax exempt number for 'value added' taxation, like a service garage or whatever, you pay the tax to Amsoil when you buy it.
Dented filters may be a problem. I've used a few that were dented in my past ..but avoid doing so now.
Dented filters may be a problem. I've used a few that were dented in my past ..but avoid doing so now.
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Well, let's put it in perspective. If you do call them, just say that the filters are dented.
Here's what the filter counsel says:
Q. I took your filter out of the box and found it was dented and/or damaged. Can I still use it?
A. NO! A dented or damaged filter should NEVER be installed. Please take it back to the outlet where you purchased it and exchange it for another filter.
The Impact of Dents on Canister Filters
Filter manufacturers often receive used filters involved in warranty investigations due to a crack in a filter canister. In many cases the crack is located within or near a dent in the canister. This evidence predominantly indicates that the dent caused the crack and that the failure was not within the control of the filter manufacturer. Once the steel canister is dented, a concentration of stress in the canister material is created, making the canister more susceptible to fatigue.
The fatigue to the material results from the pressure pulses within the system. The pressure is regulated by a pressure regulating valve. This valve is spring operated and intermittently opens and closes to regulate the pressure. Once the pressure exceeds the setting of the spring in the regulating valve, the valve will open and relieve pressure until the spring can expand and close the valve. This function is repeated continuously during the operation of the system, creating a pulsing effect. The canister of the filters is subjected to the same pulsation. However, unlike the spring in the pressure regulating valve, the canister material is susceptible to failure after such fatigue.
Filters are designed with a low carbon steel to resist fatigue and are formed so the stress created by the pulses in the system are equalized over the surface area of the canister. A dent provides an area of stress concentration from pressure pulses and can greatly shorten the fatigue life of the canister.
Filters that are dented prior to or during installation should not be used. Filters dented after installation should be replaced immediately. The cost of replacing a dented filter is much less than the cost of the damages that could result from a dented filter that fails during service. If you receive filters that were dented prior to your receipt, you should contact your filter supplier for corrective action.
For additional information, contact:
Filter Manufacturers Council
P.O. Box 13966
Research Triangle Park, NC 27709-3966
Phone: 919/406-8817 Fax: 919/406-1306
www.filtercouncil.org
Administered by Motor & Equipment Manufacturers Association
Give me the auction number or the part number and tell me how you're installing it.
Here's what the filter counsel says:
Q. I took your filter out of the box and found it was dented and/or damaged. Can I still use it?
A. NO! A dented or damaged filter should NEVER be installed. Please take it back to the outlet where you purchased it and exchange it for another filter.
The Impact of Dents on Canister Filters
Filter manufacturers often receive used filters involved in warranty investigations due to a crack in a filter canister. In many cases the crack is located within or near a dent in the canister. This evidence predominantly indicates that the dent caused the crack and that the failure was not within the control of the filter manufacturer. Once the steel canister is dented, a concentration of stress in the canister material is created, making the canister more susceptible to fatigue.
The fatigue to the material results from the pressure pulses within the system. The pressure is regulated by a pressure regulating valve. This valve is spring operated and intermittently opens and closes to regulate the pressure. Once the pressure exceeds the setting of the spring in the regulating valve, the valve will open and relieve pressure until the spring can expand and close the valve. This function is repeated continuously during the operation of the system, creating a pulsing effect. The canister of the filters is subjected to the same pulsation. However, unlike the spring in the pressure regulating valve, the canister material is susceptible to failure after such fatigue.
Filters are designed with a low carbon steel to resist fatigue and are formed so the stress created by the pulses in the system are equalized over the surface area of the canister. A dent provides an area of stress concentration from pressure pulses and can greatly shorten the fatigue life of the canister.
Filters that are dented prior to or during installation should not be used. Filters dented after installation should be replaced immediately. The cost of replacing a dented filter is much less than the cost of the damages that could result from a dented filter that fails during service. If you receive filters that were dented prior to your receipt, you should contact your filter supplier for corrective action.
For additional information, contact:
Filter Manufacturers Council
P.O. Box 13966
Research Triangle Park, NC 27709-3966
Phone: 919/406-8817 Fax: 919/406-1306
www.filtercouncil.org
Administered by Motor & Equipment Manufacturers Association
Give me the auction number or the part number and tell me how you're installing it.
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You're welcome. Glad you got it straightened out.
My BP80A mount has a .030 restrictor. I plumb it across the cooler circuit. In line, my gut tells me, you could just run it without one ..but that's just my opinion based on the results of others who have used very tight filters (like one rated @ Beta3=1000) in that type of installation. ATF is very thin compared to motor oil. A fellow member who's extremely savvy in filtration on a professional level, Schultz, uses such a filter. He has a setup that will turn a light on in the dash display when it electrically opens a mechanical bypass valve. He has reported never to have seen the light come on. If you're talking a EaBP100 ..the gross square inches of media should make the filter transparent ...or so I "feel". It may never need to be changed ..but that's just my opinion. I haven't personally backed it in testing (I need a bigger wallet and a few clones
)
My BP80A mount has a .030 restrictor. I plumb it across the cooler circuit. In line, my gut tells me, you could just run it without one ..but that's just my opinion based on the results of others who have used very tight filters (like one rated @ Beta3=1000) in that type of installation. ATF is very thin compared to motor oil. A fellow member who's extremely savvy in filtration on a professional level, Schultz, uses such a filter. He has a setup that will turn a light on in the dash display when it electrically opens a mechanical bypass valve. He has reported never to have seen the light come on. If you're talking a EaBP100 ..the gross square inches of media should make the filter transparent ...or so I "feel". It may never need to be changed ..but that's just my opinion. I haven't personally backed it in testing (I need a bigger wallet and a few clones
Oh sweet. I kept on thinking the BP80a came with a 1/16" restrictor instead of 1/32". So you think it would be safe to run that size restriction on ATF huh? I would tap in at the atf cooler line, go to the filter, then dump in the tranny pan.
When you say you plumb it "across" the cooler circuit. Does that mean you tap in and dump back in the cooler line?
When you say you plumb it "across" the cooler circuit. Does that mean you tap in and dump back in the cooler line?
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Yes. There's enough differential across the cooler circuit to drive the bypass filter. It works for me, anyway.
Hey that's a very clever setup. I like it cause there is no pressure drop in the ATF lines. However, I can't help but keep thinking that the flow of ATF through the BP90 would either be stopped, or may even go in reverse at times. Cause pressure is being applied to both ends.
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Noooooo (elongated low tone "noo"), man. There will be some differential across the cooler. You just take what that provides.
In this drawing, the fluid comes out of the trans and splits going straight ahead into the full flow filter ..and takes a left to the bpf. Now the bpf is sorta like a brick wall with s few holes in it ..but it's still a shorter path back to the trans. A "short circuit" that can't move too much flow.
In this drawing, the fluid comes out of the trans and splits going straight ahead into the full flow filter ..and takes a left to the bpf. Now the bpf is sorta like a brick wall with s few holes in it ..but it's still a shorter path back to the trans. A "short circuit" that can't move too much flow.
Alright cool. I'm going to try to do the install this weekend. I'm going to use one of the EaBP's for the tranny. The cooler lines are steel pipe, so I'll need to get a couple T's with compression fittings. Is there an optimal tapping location? Or just the closer to the inlet and outlet of the tranny, the better?
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yes, the closer the better. I've even elongated the lines to make the "bridge" short. That is, lengthen both cooler lines so you can have them run to where you mount the filter(s). Then it's still two Tee's ..but the hoses off of the bpf are very short.
Let them dry out a bit and put them in a dark toilet area.
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