Goal for ATF drain and fills, when are you "satisfied?"

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Yes because I have serviced one customers MAZDA and I can remember at least 2 others we did the fluid/filter service on. I constantly walk through the shop and look at the jobs being done. I personally take interest in the MAZDAs that have Skyactiv engine/transmission that come in for many types of service. The MAZDA Transmission fluid is RED
But I dont use it I use CASTROL ATF. Oh its RED as well
Type-FZ is definitely blue. Every bottle of FZ I have ever used (for the Skyactiv transmission) has been blue. Here is a picture for you:

1629318720538.jpeg
 
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Type-FZ is definitely blue. Every bottle of FZ I have ever used (for the Skyactiv transmission) has been blue. Here is a picture for you:

View attachment 67480
Thank you I appreciate the picture and the info. I never said that I used the MAZDA Type-FZ and in the shop have never used MAZDA Type-FZ fluids because of the cost and it takes 1/2 day for delivery.
Your information like that is why I joined this forum.
 

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Thank you I appreciate the picture and the info. I never said that I used the MAZDA Type-FZ and in the shop have never used MAZDA Type-FZ fluids because of the cost and it takes 1/2 day for delivery.
Your information like that is why I joined this forum.
What 👀🤷🏻‍♀️ fluid do 🏻🤔 they 💁 use 🙏🏻 in 🧑🏻‍🦯 the shop? I'm 👌 curious. 🙇 Also, 👨 what's 😦😦 the table 😐 that 😐 your 👈 monitor 🖥 is on? 🔛
 
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If the fluids looks red I will do a drain and fill, it usually only 4-5 qts for small FWD cars but if it looks like crap, black or dark brown and I can do a pan drop if possible and a line off I do it. Basically what I find determines what I am going to do.
 
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If the fluids looks red I will do a drain and fill, it usually only 4-5 qts for small FWD cars but if it looks like crap, black or dark brown and I can do a pan drop if possible and a line off I do it. Basically what I find determines what I am going to do.

Pan drops are usually the way I go if possible. I can change the filter and fluid,install a new gasket and call it good. Now with the Ford Escape we have now, there's no pan to remove just a drain plug,so it's a simple drain and fill job.
 
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I think it depends on how bad the old fluid was. Mine came out looking like muddy black ink. I did a total of 7 drain and fills over a period of about 20k. If it's got more than 100k on it and it the original fluid, I'd do no less than 4.

Exactly - the transmission fluid I drained out was black as coal and I know it was never changed out before as well. Going to do another drain / fill the next oil change.
 
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On my Volvos, I drain and fill till it looks clean/almost like the new stuff. No changeable filter in them(rock catcher) I do it all at once and run it on the hoist between dumps, usually 3-4l at a time.
 
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The pendulum continues to swing here at BITOG to and fro.

Anti seize on spark plugs was demonized here because nearly ALL of the OEM plug mfg. said don't use it. Recently it seems that the old wisdom of using a bit to prevent thread tear out has come back here.

Not too long ago it seems many thought the idea of doing your own DIY line off "almost" 100% tranny fluid exchange was the greatest thing since sliced bread. No T Tec machine necessary!! Along came the more recent factory recommendations of drain & fill only crowd and the tide turned to demonizing "full fluid exchanges".

I guess I still don't understand the difference (and animosity towards) a line-off, T- Tec type of fluid exchange vs. 4 -5 back to back drain and fills.
 
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Dropping the pan allows you to inspect what's in it, if a magnet what is accumulated and more importantly to change the "FILTER"!
Yeah, but don't some cars not have a transmission filter? I don't think my 2005 Toyota Corolla has a filter.
 

CharlesInCharge

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Exactly - the transmission fluid I drained out was black as coal and I know it was never changed out before as well. Going to do another drain / fill the next oil change.

Under those circumstances, I'd go buy 2 dozen quarts, and do them in quick succession. Drain and fill, drive a few miles, and repeat 5x or until the color is looking more like new fluid and not black or crimson.
 
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The pendulum continues to swing here at BITOG to and fro.

Anti seize on spark plugs was demonized here because nearly ALL of the OEM plug mfg. said don't use it. Recently it seems that the old wisdom of using a bit to prevent thread tear out has come back here.

Not too long ago it seems many thought the idea of doing your own DIY line off "almost" 100% tranny fluid exchange was the greatest thing since sliced bread. No T Tec machine necessary!! Along came the more recent factory recommendations of drain & fill only crowd and the tide turned to demonizing "full fluid exchanges".

I guess I still don't understand the difference (and animosity towards) a line-off, T- Tec type of fluid exchange vs. 4 -5 back to back drain and fills.
I dont see it that way. What I see is more so DIY that look for answers on the internet instead of real world experience. And we all know that no matter what the question is these days you will likely find the answer you want to read or supports your thought and beliefs. I call them "the Flat Earth followers"!

There are a few of us that service 100's of vehicles and hopefully have learned a little more about what is and is not good service procedures like anti seize on spark plugs and how to really service the fluid in an automatic transmission. TSB's are great but most do not realize it is a service tech that is mostly writing them not the auto
manufacture all the time as it once was when TSB first came around. So TSB are not always 100% empirical nor are they absolute.
The full fluid changes in automatic transmissions started getting a bad report mostly because "people" were either not doing them correctly and it cause transmission damage or tried to correct a completely worn out transmission which changing the fluid accelerated the wear process of fail time. So then the partial fill and re[eat method came on the scene? Can you see a service shop charging for that procedure....LOL
The dilution factor formula is great if the body of fluid is in a containment area like a pan ,bottle etc., and not an automatic transmission full of orifices , passages and valves and little area' and pockets that can hold contamination unless a proper service is done.

You rarely ever on any forum read a member return to a thread and state.. "shucks...I did it the way I thought was better because the majority of members said so and my transmission died".
 
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The dilution factor formula is great if the body of fluid is in a containment area like a pan ,bottle etc., and not an automatic transmission full of orifices , passages and valves and little area' and pockets that can hold contamination unless a proper service is done.

You rarely ever on any forum read a member return to a thread and state.. "shucks...I did it the way I thought was better because the majority of members said so and my transmission died".
Are you suggesting that (in the case of my Honda) that if you follow the manufacturer's procedure for 3X drain-and-fills it will cause the transmission to die? That's what I read.

Also when you do a drain-and-fill you operate the vehicle in between fills, that allows the fluid to reach the "orifices, passages and valves and little areas and pockets" that you mention.
 
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Are you suggesting that (in the case of my Honda) that if you follow the manufacturer's procedure for 3X drain-and-fills it will cause the transmission to die? That's what I read.

Also when you do a drain-and-fill you operate the vehicle in between fills, that allows the fluid to reach the "orifices, passages and valves and little areas and pockets" that you mention.
ya well that is not exactly what I said at all... :rolleyes:

The auto manufacture are not always correct or we would have millions of vehicles recalls. :LOL:

I knew I should have left this thread alone...... ... I can't help those that have already made up their mind... Good luck on this thread...:cautious:
 
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ya that is not what I said at all...

The auto manufacture are not always correct or we would have millions of vehicles recalls. LOL

I knew I should have left this thread alone...... rolmao.... I can't help those that have already made up their mind... Good luck on this thread...:cautious:
Well if not that then which procedure is the one that makes the transmission die?
 
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I dont see it that way. What I see is more so DIY that look for answers on the internet instead of real world experience
Well, I have also serviced hundreds of transmissions as well. Some of those were cooler line flushes and some were drain and refills. Perhaps we can agree to disagree?

TSB's are great but most do not realize it is a service tech that is mostly writing them not the auto
manufacture all the time as it once was when TSB first came around. So TSB are not always 100% empirical nor are they absolute.
Pretty sure OEM TSB's were not written by a single tech. Aftermarket, maybe.

Can you see a service shop charging for that procedure....LOL
Yes, all of our local Honda dealers offer the 3x drain and refill service. I am also friends with a number of Honda dealer techs across the country who do the same.

The auto manufacture are not always correct or we would have millions of vehicles recalls. :LOL:
Are you suggesting that your experience is the only accurate real-world experience?
 
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Yes, all of our local Honda dealers offer the 3x drain and refill service. I am also friends with a number of Honda dealer techs across the country who do the same.
This is a standard service procedure listed on the "board" at multiple Honda dealerships. Based on the price (years ago it was $89-99 and today it's sometimes $129), I'm confident that is for a single drain-and-refill ($12 x 3 = $36 retail for DW-1 + $75 1/2 labor estimated sounds about right).
 
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