GM S-series window regulator

[Drew99GT]

Anyone replaced one? Either the regulator is screwed up or the track is binding up on the driver side power window on my 98 Blazer.

Looking at my Haynes manual, the regulator is riveted to the door.

(thanks GM for not using screws). It says to drill the rivets out. Anyone have any tips or tricks for that?

Thanks.

 

[StevieC]

They use rivets so the screws don't come loose... I have drilled these out in the past and used tiny bolts & lock nuts when putting it back together, using wrenches. This will stop them from coming loose over time and rattling in the door (which can be quite annoying). Use stainless, galvanized or nickel plated hardware to make disassembly in future easier.

Most likely it's the regulator... Have done 3 of these. 2 on the same truck.

Scrapyard is your best bet, bring a portable drill with you to take it out.

Before you put the regulator in, lubricate the heck out of it using a good penetrating fluid, let it dry for a bit, then apply a heavy duty rustproofing spray like Amsoil H.D. metal protector or use a thick engine oil or gear lube. This will help extend its life greatly.

 

[SLCraig]

That's ridiculous... On my Saturn, they're bolted in the door.. I did have to tighten them once though. haha

 

[mechtech2]

The rivets drill out pretty easily - no big deal.
And use whatever bolts/nuts/locknuts that you can fit in afterwards.

 

[Drew99GT]

This was yet another case where Haynes and Chiltons manuals tell you half the info you need to know. Actually it was all wrong. I had to take the window tracks out and take the glass out to be able to wiggle the arms from the regulator off the track on the bottom of the window. PITA.

One of the plastic rollers on the arm busted. Pre-engineered failure.

Now I have to hunt down some of those plastic tabs to secure the door panel back on.

I'm guessing this would have been a $500 job at a repair facility.

I used bolts/washers/lock nuts to secure it in place.

 

[StevieC]

I know AutoZone carries those clips in the "Help" (packages are labeled "Help") section where they carry all the commonly broken pieces needed.

 

[GMBoy]

This was yet another case where Haynes and Chiltons manuals tell you half the info you need to know. Actually it was all wrong.

I avoid Chilton and Haynes. Only way to go is with the FACTORY manual for your specific vehicle.

 

[mechtech2]

One of the worst case Chilton's/Haynes/ Motor manual problems is with heater core R+Rs.

Something like: "Remove dash, exchange core."

Yeah, right! On an old Ford with an 8 hour nightmare job.