Need to replace the front diff in the 06 AWD Escalade. Going to replace with a used one. Wondering what is involved, any steps or tips would be helpful. TIA.
GM AWD front diff replacement help
- Thread starter LeakySeals
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Just about the easiest front diff to replace in any vehicle. You don't even need to take the wheels off!
Remove the front driveshaft bolts from the pinion and separate
Remove the 6 axle flange bolts on each side
Remove the electrical connection
Remove 2 bolts on passenger side of the diff
Remove the bolts on the driver's side (I forget what they are)
Tilt the diff down and remove the vent line
Drop diff from vehicle
With a lift and trans jack, it's about a 30 minute job. On ramps with hand tools, figure a couple hours. An extra set of hands helps!
Remove the front driveshaft bolts from the pinion and separate
Remove the 6 axle flange bolts on each side
Remove the electrical connection
Remove 2 bolts on passenger side of the diff
Remove the bolts on the driver's side (I forget what they are)
Tilt the diff down and remove the vent line
Drop diff from vehicle
With a lift and trans jack, it's about a 30 minute job. On ramps with hand tools, figure a couple hours. An extra set of hands helps!
Originally Posted by 14Accent
Just about the easiest front diff to replace in any vehicle. You don't even need to take the wheels off!
Remove the front driveshaft bolts from the pinion and separate
Remove the 6 axle flange bolts on each side
Remove the electrical connection
Remove 2 bolts on passenger side of the diff
Remove the bolts on the driver's side (I forget what they are)
Tilt the diff down and remove the vent line
Drop diff from vehicle
With a lift and trans jack, it's about a 30 minute job. On ramps with hand tools, figure a couple hours. An extra set of hands helps!
Thank you. Remove the tie rod and center link is not on your list. Yay! Was hoping I didn't have to do that. Will be using ramps. I wasn't sure if the truck would try to move when I disconnect the front drive shaft. And if there was enough room to drop with a jack and drag out.
Just about the easiest front diff to replace in any vehicle. You don't even need to take the wheels off!
Remove the front driveshaft bolts from the pinion and separate
Remove the 6 axle flange bolts on each side
Remove the electrical connection
Remove 2 bolts on passenger side of the diff
Remove the bolts on the driver's side (I forget what they are)
Tilt the diff down and remove the vent line
Drop diff from vehicle
With a lift and trans jack, it's about a 30 minute job. On ramps with hand tools, figure a couple hours. An extra set of hands helps!
Thank you. Remove the tie rod and center link is not on your list. Yay! Was hoping I didn't have to do that. Will be using ramps. I wasn't sure if the truck would try to move when I disconnect the front drive shaft. And if there was enough room to drop with a jack and drag out.
Sounds too easy.
Lucky you!
Lucky you!
I just pulled one out of a 2500hd and had to remove the center link from the Pitman and idler arm to get it to drop out. On the Escalade depending on which AWD system you have, you might not even have any electrical connection. I put carrier bearings in our 04 Escalade because they were howling. Is yours making noise?
Originally Posted by chilson450
I just pulled one out of a 2500hd and had to remove the center link from the Pitman and idler arm to get it to drop out. On the Escalade depending on which AWD system you have, you might not even have any electrical connection. I put carrier bearings in our 04 Escalade because they were howling. Is yours making noise?
It's got minor howling. And who knows what else. Metal floating in the oil every time I change it which is yearly buying time. When I first got the truck it had a diff seal leak at the driveshaft. Closer look finds the diff vent dangling upside down on the control arm. In the dead of winter sucking in sand, salt, water as it breathes. Could have been like that for years. Who knows. The truck had been "dealer serviced" all its life. They must have been pushing the vent out of the way to grease ball joints. No way they didn't see it. So it could be just bearings. Or all of it operating with so much water and grit in the oil.
I just pulled one out of a 2500hd and had to remove the center link from the Pitman and idler arm to get it to drop out. On the Escalade depending on which AWD system you have, you might not even have any electrical connection. I put carrier bearings in our 04 Escalade because they were howling. Is yours making noise?
It's got minor howling. And who knows what else. Metal floating in the oil every time I change it which is yearly buying time. When I first got the truck it had a diff seal leak at the driveshaft. Closer look finds the diff vent dangling upside down on the control arm. In the dead of winter sucking in sand, salt, water as it breathes. Could have been like that for years. Who knows. The truck had been "dealer serviced" all its life. They must have been pushing the vent out of the way to grease ball joints. No way they didn't see it. So it could be just bearings. Or all of it operating with so much water and grit in the oil.
The used front diff is on the way. From Idaho lol. Should i replace the oil pan gasket while its off?
If it looks like it's seeping, now would be the time to do it. If you take the pan off you might as well do the pick up tube o ring as well.
Oil pan gasket isn't a bad idea, but I rarely see them actually leak on LS engines. What does leak is the rear main seal carrier plate that's bolted to the rear of the engine. The rear main itself doesn't leak, however the carrier it's housed in does.
That repair requires unbolting and sliding the transmission back, however. I would just chuck the diff. in and roll with it as-is. Once you see how easy it is to remove, you won't mind pulling it again to do the oil pan or rear main carrier.
That repair requires unbolting and sliding the transmission back, however. I would just chuck the diff. in and roll with it as-is. Once you see how easy it is to remove, you won't mind pulling it again to do the oil pan or rear main carrier.
That is some serious water contamination. Isn't there a filter or check valve on the end of the line?
Originally Posted by 14Accent
Just about the easiest front diff to replace in any vehicle. You don't even need to take the wheels off!
Remove the front driveshaft bolts from the pinion and separate
Remove the 6 axle flange bolts on each side
Remove the electrical connection
Remove 2 bolts on passenger side of the diff
Remove the bolts on the driver's side (I forget what they are)
Tilt the diff down and remove the vent line
Drop diff from vehicle
With a lift and trans jack, it's about a 30 minute job. On ramps with hand tools, figure a couple hours. An extra set of hands helps!
Was just noticing that on ramps I'm going to have one heck of a time getting to the CV axle bolts if i cant spin the wheel. Hopefully my 2 3 ton jack stands can get her high enough.
Just about the easiest front diff to replace in any vehicle. You don't even need to take the wheels off!
Remove the front driveshaft bolts from the pinion and separate
Remove the 6 axle flange bolts on each side
Remove the electrical connection
Remove 2 bolts on passenger side of the diff
Remove the bolts on the driver's side (I forget what they are)
Tilt the diff down and remove the vent line
Drop diff from vehicle
With a lift and trans jack, it's about a 30 minute job. On ramps with hand tools, figure a couple hours. An extra set of hands helps!
Was just noticing that on ramps I'm going to have one heck of a time getting to the CV axle bolts if i cant spin the wheel. Hopefully my 2 3 ton jack stands can get her high enough.
The diff is here. Now comes the fun part. Rhino ramps or jack stands? I'm thinking stands with the wheels off the ground, to be able to rotate to get to the axle bolts or remove center link?
You'll definitely want to be able to rotate the wheels to access the axle bolts, so I vote jackstands.
Okay started about an hour ago and I'm ready to lower it but before I do I'm wondering about disconnecting the center link and tie rod. Because of the way I jacked it up with stands it seems to be putting a lot of stress. All the bolts are loose but. Idler arm and pitman arm will replace last year. So it's all new and I would expect that to pop out with the tap of a hammer. But no way it seems with the tires dangling it's putting a lot of stress on the system. Do I need to let the truck back down or lift the wheels?
I have the steering wheel turned all the way to the left which gives me the best clearance. I'm just wondering once I pop it loose it's 80 lb coming down. If I just move it forward or backward does anyone think I can get it around the center link without disconnecting?
Here are some pics.
So its installed. Seemed to fit right to the axles and the drive shaft. But then I see this. The left was the original. The right, replacement. Does it matter?
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