GM 3100 intake gaskets replaced, same problem

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Sounds encouraging. Keep an eye on it but it sounds like you've got it handled.

I'm convinced these engines are sensitive to proper bleeding of air in the system. Is yours the version with two bleeders - one in the "T" above the water pump and the other at the back (driver's side) of the engine? They probably should burp air from each location to do it right.
 
Originally Posted By: css9450
Sounds encouraging. Keep an eye on it but it sounds like you've got it handled.

I'm convinced these engines are sensitive to proper bleeding of air in the system. Is yours the version with two bleeders - one in the "T" above the water pump and the other at the back (driver's side) of the engine? They probably should burp air from each location to do it right.

Mine has 2 bleed valves, one on the thermostat housing, the other on the thermostat bypass tube. I found the screw on the therm housing but not the one on the bypass tube.

I have a Lisle speed funnel that I use for coolant fills/burps. If the oil stays constant and the coolant lowers, I may go ahead and burp with the funnel.

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Originally Posted By: Woody71
From what I've read, the Dex-cool eroded the gaskets because of how they were engineered. Thus the recommendation to use Fel-Pro gaskets for replacements.....

DexCool and the Dex clones (universals) contain 2eha which is a known plasticizer and thus it will affect non compatible gaskets such as the intake gaskets of some GM vehicles. Don't see how this could be your issue now though as the process that attacks the gaskets takes time. As mentioned a poor installation or some other issue is now causing the leak.

As for DexCool, if I now owned a vehicle spec'd for it I'd use it. However, if one owns a vehicle spec'd for something other than Dex and the gaskets happen to be incompatible, then tough luck. Then again, could work perfectly as an extended life coolant. But however small the chance of gasket incompatibility, it is a roll of the dice in non Dex spec'd vehicles.
 
Originally Posted By: Woody71
From what I've read, the Dex-cool eroded the gaskets because of how they were engineered. Thus the recommendation to use Fel-Pro gaskets for replacements.

Shop just called. Mechanic said no coolant in the oil and that the oil was a little high so he drained some out. I'm not a mechanic, but 2" over the full mark on the dipstick seems to be more than "a little" high.

Said that there was air in the radiator because it wasn't burped properly. I could have burped it properly but won't in this case because I paid them to do it.

Said to drive it for a week or 2 and come back in to have it checked.

This is why I do everything I can myself, because I know it's done right.

I'll post pics of the oil on the dipstick to get your opinions.

Before I leave the shop, I'm going to make it clear that if after a week or 2 the oil level is increasing, I'm asking for an engine rebuild. Want to see how sure they are.


Short tripping can account for the oil level being high since fuel dilution won't evaporate when short tripped.
If that's the case I don't see any engine damage occurring however a second opinion as in another shop may be prudent.
I hope everything works out for you. They are a decent car and one with such low miles is like having a new car basically.
 
Jeeze... I don't get what's so hard about properly bleeding the air from the cooling system. They should have looked for two things BEFORE test driving. Number 1: The upper radiator hose should be hot. Number 2: The heater hoses should be hot and the heater should be blowing hot air. It may take some messing around and revving the engine periodically to break the air free, but with some patience a person can bleed them without the vac/fill or airlift systems. I had to do it the hard way for 3 1/2 years. Even if it took a half an hour of fiddling around, I got the car to do what I typed above. Then and only then, did I road test. A vigorous one at that. After that, I checked the coolant once the engine cooled. 9 times out of 10, they took more coolant.

If you're sure that the oil getting coolant in it, then I too agree that the intake repair was faulty. I wouldn't be surprised if they used the plastic framed gaskets and didn't prep the surface well enough. The steel framed gaskets have a bigger more forgiving gasket seal and I definitely prefer them. A quick way to I.D. what gasket was used is to remove the oil fill cap and shine a penlight in, to the right. You'll be able to see the frame and gasket (if steel framed) at a port or just the frame if plastic.
 
If you had coolant in the oil, there is no mistaking it on the dipstick. If you didn't, they're right. Bleed and go.

Like Eric says, it may take some time and fiddling, but the air will leave.
 
3100 and 3400 head gaskets are terrible.

One time I did replace the intake gaskets and then suddenly discover head gaskets failed after all that labor.
 
Over the past couple days, I've run it on the highway for a total of about 100 mi. Checked coolant/oil after each trip and it looks good. No white sludge at the bottom of the dipstick (which is now at the level its supposed to be) and the coolant levels look good.

Noticed the temp gauge tends to move past the halfway mark when idling after getting off the highway. Called the shop and they informed me the fan should kick in between 1/2 and 3/4 and to bring it in if it gets to and past 3/4. Our newer CR-V tends to stay around 1/3 all the time but then again I seems like the fan is running quite a bit.

I have another issue now. Got home and noticed tiny black dots all over my paint. Went to scratch one off and it took off the paint clear down to bare metal. They're all over the hood, roof and trunk, some on the windshield, side windows and side mirrors. I don't think its sap as I've not parked under any trees. Not sure if its something that got on the car at the shop but whatever it is, it ruined the paint. An insurance adjuster coming out tomorrow to look at it, we'll see what they say.
 
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