Since I have started using the Permatex ceramic extreme lube I have not had a sticking caliper slide again or pads stuck in the bracket. Ontario winters are very hard on brake parts.
Glad I don't rely on shops for basic service.
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Is this the orange can or purple can?
Agreed. My brand new cars after 5k miles its was bone dry.
A lot of this depends on the person doing it. What they learned from the “master tech ” “A” tech” “grand dad” “pops” “uncle Joe” or whom ever taught/trained them.
If the guy that showed them when they started working on vehicles used x voodoo juice then likely that kid is gonna use that same method for quite a long part of their career, right or wrong. Not many people are gonna be researching every exact chemical, lube, etc for every certain job. They are going to go with whatever they know.
I think the general public and here thinks most auto technicians go through some exhausting training process with a majority of the scenarios presented to them and once they can pass that they move up to the next level
This is hardly the facts. Some hiring folks are looking for a body with a tool box get either thrown into the shop alone day one or with someone else for a couple weeks and then sink or swim.
@The Critic is silicone paste like the 3M acceptable to use in these said Toyota pins or is the lithium Toyota stuff the only thing that should be used ? Thanks
If the guy that showed them when they started working on vehicles used x voodoo juice then likely that kid is gonna use that same method for quite a long part of their career, right or wrong. Not many people are gonna be researching every exact chemical, lube, etc for every certain job. They are going to go with whatever they know.
I think the general public and here thinks most auto technicians go through some exhausting training process with a majority of the scenarios presented to them and once they can pass that they move up to the next level
This is hardly the facts. Some hiring folks are looking for a body with a tool box get either thrown into the shop alone day one or with someone else for a couple weeks and then sink or swim.
@The Critic is silicone paste like the 3M acceptable to use in these said Toyota pins or is the lithium Toyota stuff the only thing that should be used ? Thanks
exactly. I was the exception in the shop... I had 2 years of Trade School as well as 60 credit hours at the local community college in automotive courses. 40 years of work experience and multiple OEM courses later, in the end after all those years I held 29 ASE certification's ( Triple Master ASE , HD truck, Transit, School Bus plus half the auto series and one advanced level cert) but I was the exception and one ASE Master Cert was all they paid me extra for, and that was a dollar per hour. Not worth it when a person can string wires or install plumbing and make more money.
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Not sure I am grasping your comment? Are you implying it is not uncommon for dealer techs not ASE certified and/ or tech school/ manufacturer trained?who gets dealer tech jobs? guys who bounce from dealer to dealer or guys who used to wash cars and are offered the chance at better pay and a free set of tools.
your guess is as good as mine.. like I said I held 29 ASE certifications, I met alot of people in the trade who struggled with written tests and you'd be surprised who doesn't know any theory that is out there doing the job. Ask em what Ohms law is, or stuff like that and you'd get a blank stare.. Ask them what vortex flow is in a torque converter... or the difference between PCV and PVC?
The beauty of it is the people they sell stuff too don't have a clue.. 700 dollars for a brake job.. LOL... 1200 to replace an AC compressor..The dealer revolves around selling service people don't need, not repairing cars for free. auto repair places makes the most money with the least effort by selling services that require less skill , hence their reliance on selling things like cooling system and transmission flushes and oil changes. You dont make any money driving the car ( performance issues) and internal engine repair is too much work, so you want to sell the and repair the easy stuff like brakes, suspension AC, sell alignments, nitrogen in tires etc ... just the way it is.
PSA - if at all possible, early in the vehicles life, remove the rotor retaining screws, put some anti-seize on them and re-install. You or your mechanic will thank you later on. I'm thinking @AutoMechanic or @Trav would love you.
I just did the rear rotors/pads on my '17 Accord with 99k on it. They hadn't been touched in the 50k I've had it. I have the Vessel Megadora Impact Screwdriver with the correct JIS #3 tip. Those things did NOT want to move with multiple hits to it with hand sledge. I used some heat around the screw on rotor and then a shot of cold (Air duster can upside down) on the screw. A spray of the Gibbs Penetrant before/during after. 2 more shots with the Vessel and hand sledge, they came loose. Reinstalled after with copper anti-seize.
Fronts got a pad swap but I did the rotor screws also. They were stuck the same.
I did the screws on the '19 Pilot last year with about 45k on it. They all came out with only a couple hits on the Vessel.
Loosening and reinstall on those screws will be part of my 2x yearly winter tire swap.
None of my pads hit the low pad squeal sensor. All four wheels were like this, squeal was imminent. Raybestos Element 3 rotors on rear and Raybestos Element 3 pads all around went on.
I just did the rear rotors/pads on my '17 Accord with 99k on it. They hadn't been touched in the 50k I've had it. I have the Vessel Megadora Impact Screwdriver with the correct JIS #3 tip. Those things did NOT want to move with multiple hits to it with hand sledge. I used some heat around the screw on rotor and then a shot of cold (Air duster can upside down) on the screw. A spray of the Gibbs Penetrant before/during after. 2 more shots with the Vessel and hand sledge, they came loose. Reinstalled after with copper anti-seize.
Fronts got a pad swap but I did the rotor screws also. They were stuck the same.
I did the screws on the '19 Pilot last year with about 45k on it. They all came out with only a couple hits on the Vessel.
Loosening and reinstall on those screws will be part of my 2x yearly winter tire swap.
None of my pads hit the low pad squeal sensor. All four wheels were like this, squeal was imminent. Raybestos Element 3 rotors on rear and Raybestos Element 3 pads all around went on.
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Pads start dragging on my truck after a couple years it seems. Now I periodically keep track of how fast it slows down when I let off the throttle. Had the same issue towing my trailer. Those springs that hold the shoes together break and you end up just dragging the pads/shoes.
I'm so glad I can work on my own stuff, or at least have the knowledge of what needs to be done if I don't have the time to do it. I've been working on my own things since I was young and riding ATVs and dirt bikes. It never really occurred to me until later in life the fear many people have that they may be taken advantage of by a shop. The average person has zero mechanical knowledge or knowledge of their vehicle, how much repairs should cost, etc, and every trip to a shop for them is a possibility of being robbed.
The automotive industry has certainly earned its reputation, but with that said not everyone is out to take advantage of people. I take meticulous care of my vehicles since they are older and still need to be reliable. I enjoy older vehicles but don't really have the time or patience for breakdowns. Because of this I am very particular with the work that is done to them. Most technicians want to do a good job, but at the end of the day the repair industry rewards quantity, not quality of work.
The automotive industry has certainly earned its reputation, but with that said not everyone is out to take advantage of people. I take meticulous care of my vehicles since they are older and still need to be reliable. I enjoy older vehicles but don't really have the time or patience for breakdowns. Because of this I am very particular with the work that is done to them. Most technicians want to do a good job, but at the end of the day the repair industry rewards quantity, not quality of work.
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With my truck being a diesel I never hear that metal squealer tab thingy.
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I think it should be done annually imo
If you mean the brake shoe return springs, why are they breaking after just a couple years? They usually last for multiple brake jobs. Do you drive through salt water?
Just leave them out. They are only need to keep the rotor from falling off as the vehicle rolls down the assembly line.
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No salt but I did get 5 years until they broke. Still had pad left. Dexter axle sells these springs by themselves, they're only like $5
Here in sunny CA the mild weather is easy on vehicles. But a few minutes on each caliper every couple years offers peace of mind and keeps your brakes working well. It also allows me time to order replacement parts ahead of time and to plan installation.
It's kinda funny; our Tesla Model 3 lists periodic brake caliper maintenance, especially in inclement weather. This is partially due to the car's regenerative braking. Brake components last a long time, so it's a good idea to service them. I don't recall seeing this in other car's scheduled maintenance, only inspection. I could be wrong...
Pads? First you mentioned shoes,
Brake pads are used in disc brake systems, shoes are used in drum brake systems. Two completely different things with different hardware.
The pads on the Accord and most that I have worked on recently have the little holes and have 2 small flex springs for each set. Helps push them out a bit. Helps push them out a LOT and fall out of clips if the caliper is not on and you are not holding them together. 
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