gdi turbo & oil

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Apr 5, 2022
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im not really loyal to any specific brand of oil. that said, when it comes to gdi turbo engines is there any type that does a better job with turbos/heating?

will full synthetic #1 that meets requirements do just as good with protection as the next full synthetic as long as oil changes are regularly performed? i have watched so many oil reviews on youtube and it can get quite confusing coming from creators that are pushing their loyalty brand.

i cant help but wonder if im getting the best protection for my 2.3ecoboost turbo engine in my ranger.

is it normal for a turbo to whistle/whine? if not,is that a result of overheating due to weak oil?
 
I like the M1EP line, or any of the boutique line as long as ester is involved. I like Redline because of their sponsorship to lots of Honda racing 🏎️ teams. But to stay unbiased, Driven, Amsoil SS, Torco,High Performance Lubricants,Royal Purple HPS,etc. Look for VOA, forums.
 
im not really loyal to any specific brand of oil. that said, when it comes to gdi turbo engines is there any type that does a better job with turbos/heating?

will full synthetic #1 that meets requirements do just as good with protection as the next full synthetic as long as oil changes are regularly performed? i have watched so many oil reviews on youtube and it can get quite confusing coming from creators that are pushing their loyalty brand.

i cant help but wonder if im getting the best protection for my 2.3ecoboost turbo engine in my ranger.

is it normal for a turbo to whistle/whine? if not,is that a result of overheating due to weak oil?
whistling and whining sound about right! watch a couple of The fast and furious franchise movies and you'll come to appreciate those sounds that forced induction makes.
 
sounds like the blow off valve or the diverter valve. some cars will make a really high pitched sound. I swear they're trying to make contact with aliens from outer space. usually you can get a little bit more sound from your turbo with bolt on pipes, exhaust modifications, and higher flow induction kits. I feel absolutely fine to recommend dry flow filters but stay away from anything that requires oil as I don't have the confidence to recommend it to anyone else.
 
iirc, the recommendation is something like one of these:
- DEXOS2
- MB 229.51
- Low-Mid SA
- C3

Something thicker (no 20) and short OCI and dexos2 would do it for me. If I want to use something fancy, I may chase a Euro with the other listed spec ... if on sale.

I think PP Euro L 5W-30 is one of them (C3, High HTHS) and not expensive.
 
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I understand that an oil with a low sulfated ash content is better for GDI engines with regards to keeping them clean. Correct ?

I chose Mobil1 EP for my Mazda CX 5 with the 2.5L turbo engine for that reason and change the oil & filter every 5000 miles even though that oil is supposed to be very robust and good for up to 20,000 miles under ideal conditions. (Ha !)

Some GDI engine designs are more prone to carbon buildup than others and more frequent oil changes than the owners manual suggests are never a bad idea. I stick with the recommended weight which in the case of my Mazda is 5W-30. And i run a bottle of Techron through it about 400 miles prior to each oil change and use nothing but top tier gas.
 
There is no best.

What happened to your decision between Quaker State and Castrol?

I ended up using the new Quaker state ultimate protection. Kinda wish I’d went with Castrol black or gold. It may or may not be better, I dunno. Id prob sleep better if I had 🫤
 
[QUOTE="I You bought a vehicle with a turbo and have no understanding how a turbo works?

Dios mio.
[/QUOTE]
First turbo engine I’ve had. Kinda learn as I go 😉
 
Not a turbo but in my wife's 1.6 accent i have been using pennzoil platinum 5w30 , i got a real good deal on some Petro Canada shp duron 10w30 .
i changed the oil yesterday and drove it around 20 miles , i never really notice much change in engine noise when trying different weights in my cars , but did notice a lot less noise in the 1.6 with the duron 10w30 over the platinium 5w30.
 
Any recommend oil rating oil will do. Go for broke and use what ever syn Walmart has on the shelf. Change oil !
 
My 2016 2.7 F150 had Motorcraft semi/syn for the 1st 50-60,000 miles and since has had Pennzoil synthetic, Supertech synthetic, Mobil1 synthetic and I'm now back with Supertech for this change and at least the next. The OCI is roughly 7500 miles and after starting with Motorcraft filters, I switched to Baldwin, like I run in my other vehicles. Currently at 105,000 miles, all seems happy under the hood. The only brand I won't use in it again is the Pennzoil and that's because my ears felt like things were a bit noisier when the engine was cold with it.
 
I understand that an oil with a low sulfated ash content is better for GDI engines with regards to keeping them clean. Correct ?
Not really. It's more like reducing the rate of buildup by X amount when compared to the full-SAPS version. Of course it may not matter or only matter hundreds of thousands of miles down the road if the PCV system is designed appropriately
 
Not to revive a old thread but I was just reading about how Noac volatility being very low is extremely iMportant to turbo engines. AKA group4 and 5 if possible.
 
sounds like the blow off valve or the diverter valve. some cars will make a really high pitched sound. I swear they're trying to make contact with aliens from outer space. usually you can get a little bit more sound from your turbo with bolt on pipes, exhaust modifications, and higher flow induction kits. I feel absolutely fine to recommend dry flow filters but stay away from anything that requires oil as I don't have the confidence to recommend it to anyone else.
I have never have issues with my K&N in the modified airbox. Just don’t over oil it, and let it dry.
 
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