Gates - PowerGrip Hose Clamps
- Thread starter larryinnewyork
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Originally Posted By: HerrStig
Originally Posted By: Lapham3
The worm clamps that say 'stainless' on the band, but the screw isn't=good grief!
"Stainless" isn't the world's hardest alloy.
Heh heh, Yah ,I have a long nose pump oiler for the rusty screws. I also use a nut driver instead of screwdriver.
Originally Posted By: Lapham3
The worm clamps that say 'stainless' on the band, but the screw isn't=good grief!
"Stainless" isn't the world's hardest alloy.
Heh heh, Yah ,I have a long nose pump oiler for the rusty screws. I also use a nut driver instead of screwdriver.
Originally Posted By: Lapham3
I've had all stainless worm clamps on my boat for over 30 years and when I need to change a hose, I change a hose.
The thing is in applications where a full stainless solution is not required (so not a marine environment) the combination of a stainless band and harder screw is a better mechanical solution. Stainless on Stainless works, but it's not ideal mechanically because of the wear and galling that can occur. In a marine environment the advantages outweigh the disadvantages and they are rarely (if ever) un-tightened and re-tightened, but if you can get away with the mixed material solution you will get a better mechanical outcome (plus its cheaper).
When we bought our boat, it was 10 years old and had been assembled with mixed metal clamps. 50% of them were rusted solid and required cutting off. They were all replaced with 100% stainless units and 15 years later are still good. On the other hand, on my car and home pneumatic system mixed clamps have been good for the same period of time and were half the price, they've also been re-clamped every couple of years as hoses have been replaced or cleaned out. I've had stainless units fail after a couple of high torque cycles and in general we only re-use them once on a boat.
Horses for courses. Use whatever works for you, but there is a valid market for mixed metal clamps and it's not entirely about cost.
I've had all stainless worm clamps on my boat for over 30 years and when I need to change a hose, I change a hose.
The thing is in applications where a full stainless solution is not required (so not a marine environment) the combination of a stainless band and harder screw is a better mechanical solution. Stainless on Stainless works, but it's not ideal mechanically because of the wear and galling that can occur. In a marine environment the advantages outweigh the disadvantages and they are rarely (if ever) un-tightened and re-tightened, but if you can get away with the mixed material solution you will get a better mechanical outcome (plus its cheaper).
When we bought our boat, it was 10 years old and had been assembled with mixed metal clamps. 50% of them were rusted solid and required cutting off. They were all replaced with 100% stainless units and 15 years later are still good. On the other hand, on my car and home pneumatic system mixed clamps have been good for the same period of time and were half the price, they've also been re-clamped every couple of years as hoses have been replaced or cleaned out. I've had stainless units fail after a couple of high torque cycles and in general we only re-use them once on a boat.
Horses for courses. Use whatever works for you, but there is a valid market for mixed metal clamps and it's not entirely about cost.
Originally Posted By: Vikas
how do you get the heat gun 360 degrees around the clamp when it is buried down inside the tight engine compartment?
Snake or slip several layers of heavy duty aluminum foil under the hose to bounce and deflect the air from a heat gun.
The Gates clamps are superb - nothing else like them.
how do you get the heat gun 360 degrees around the clamp when it is buried down inside the tight engine compartment?
Snake or slip several layers of heavy duty aluminum foil under the hose to bounce and deflect the air from a heat gun.
The Gates clamps are superb - nothing else like them.
Originally Posted By: Vikas
how do you get the heat gun 360 degrees around the clamp when it is buried down inside the tight engine compartment?
That and how do you do that without melting something else?
how do you get the heat gun 360 degrees around the clamp when it is buried down inside the tight engine compartment?
That and how do you do that without melting something else?
Originally Posted By: zzyzzx
Originally Posted By: Vikas
how do you get the heat gun 360 degrees around the clamp when it is buried down inside the tight engine compartment?
That and how do you do that without melting something else?
Only takes a few seconds. Aim the gun well. Shield other items if necessary - Used many Power Grip in tight spots - never a problem without shielding.
Lots of guys use them on custom and show cars. Clean smooth appearance with no knuckle scrapping projections. Conform well to uneven surfaces, never leak. No worry about too loose or too tight.
Originally Posted By: Vikas
how do you get the heat gun 360 degrees around the clamp when it is buried down inside the tight engine compartment?
That and how do you do that without melting something else?
Only takes a few seconds. Aim the gun well. Shield other items if necessary - Used many Power Grip in tight spots - never a problem without shielding.
Lots of guys use them on custom and show cars. Clean smooth appearance with no knuckle scrapping projections. Conform well to uneven surfaces, never leak. No worry about too loose or too tight.
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