I'd go with another Bradford White, top shelf in this department.
Gas Water Heaters - Need Advice
- Thread starter barlowc
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Originally Posted By: barlowc
Who knows about gas water heaters?
I suspect that our 15+ year old Bradford White 40-gallon water heater is nearing the end of its useful life. I’ve noticed that the capacity isn’t much and is pretty much zapped after I run a bath for the kids.
I've read that a good approach is to find a good, standard tank with a 6-year warranty at a reasonable price. They suggest that paying the extra $150-200 for a tank with a 12-year warranty is just a waste of money.
However, when talking with the "expert" at Home Depot yesterday, he said that the premium paid for a tank with a 12-year warranty is money well spent. He said that the 12-year tanks have significantly more insulation which results in 2 things:
1) Lower energy costs which will recoup the premium paid multiple times over the life of the tank.
2) A longer lasting tank because it doesn't have to fire up nearly as often to keep the water warm.
Home Depot carries GE tanks made by Rheem. Lowes carries Whirlpool tanks made by American Water Heater. (From what I understand, these two manufacturers cover a significant portion of the market.) I also know someone that can install a Lochinvar tank.
Does it need a new dip tube ??
Who knows about gas water heaters?
I suspect that our 15+ year old Bradford White 40-gallon water heater is nearing the end of its useful life. I’ve noticed that the capacity isn’t much and is pretty much zapped after I run a bath for the kids.
I've read that a good approach is to find a good, standard tank with a 6-year warranty at a reasonable price. They suggest that paying the extra $150-200 for a tank with a 12-year warranty is just a waste of money.
However, when talking with the "expert" at Home Depot yesterday, he said that the premium paid for a tank with a 12-year warranty is money well spent. He said that the 12-year tanks have significantly more insulation which results in 2 things:
1) Lower energy costs which will recoup the premium paid multiple times over the life of the tank.
2) A longer lasting tank because it doesn't have to fire up nearly as often to keep the water warm.
Home Depot carries GE tanks made by Rheem. Lowes carries Whirlpool tanks made by American Water Heater. (From what I understand, these two manufacturers cover a significant portion of the market.) I also know someone that can install a Lochinvar tank.
Does it need a new dip tube ??
Originally Posted By: Papa Bear
Does it need a new dip tube ??
Don't know. How I can tell/determine?
Does it need a new dip tube ??
Don't know. How I can tell/determine?
you didnt drain it every 6 mo? in my whole life i have known only one person that did that.
Originally Posted By: morris
you didnt drain it every 6 mo? in my whole life i have known only one person that did that.
Are you supposed to? In my whole life I have not known anyone who does that.
you didnt drain it every 6 mo? in my whole life i have known only one person that did that.
Are you supposed to? In my whole life I have not known anyone who does that.
I just drained my Bradford White first time after 3 years - I watched the water coming out and did not see any sediment/dirt/debris of any kind.
So while I'm going to try draining my current tank and making sure there's not something that can be done to improve its function and keep it going for a while, my real question is in regards to...
a) Find a good, standard tank with a 6-year warranty at a reasonable price.
b) Pay the extra $150-200 for a tank with a 12-year warranty to get improved efficiency and a longer life.
If there truth in (b)? The "Energy Factor" listed on the GE spec sheet shows 0.58 - 0.59 for the 6-year tanks and 0.62 for the 12-year tanks. I don't know what those numbers mean but it doesn't seem like much of a difference.
a) Find a good, standard tank with a 6-year warranty at a reasonable price.
b) Pay the extra $150-200 for a tank with a 12-year warranty to get improved efficiency and a longer life.
If there truth in (b)? The "Energy Factor" listed on the GE spec sheet shows 0.58 - 0.59 for the 6-year tanks and 0.62 for the 12-year tanks. I don't know what those numbers mean but it doesn't seem like much of a difference.
If your natural gas cost is low, then I don't see the increased cost efficiency saving you money. In our previous house, we had a State 6 yr warranted hot water heater last 18+ years. We sold the house before we had to replace it, and it was doing fine.
In our current house, we have State also, and they have lasted the 12 years with no sign of requiring replacement.
It looks like you got similar service out of your Bradford White, and I assume it was about a 6 yr warranted item also.
Electric hot water heaters is where the extra insulation, etc, makes a big difference, because of the increased cost of electricity vs natural gas.
In our current house, we have State also, and they have lasted the 12 years with no sign of requiring replacement.
It looks like you got similar service out of your Bradford White, and I assume it was about a 6 yr warranted item also.
Electric hot water heaters is where the extra insulation, etc, makes a big difference, because of the increased cost of electricity vs natural gas.
Originally Posted By: JayhawkRoy
If your natural gas cost is low, then I don't see the increased cost efficiency saving you money.
What's considered low?
Looking at our past two monthly bills, I see:
Gas Distribution = X Mcf @ 2.630100
Energy Optimization = X Mcf @ 0.238300
Gas Cost Recover = X Mcf @ 6.144800
Where X is the monthly usage in Mcf.
Let me ask this... what's the feasibility of a DIY job? I see various hookup kits that you can buy ranging from $30 to $50. And I've worked with PEX and SharkBite connectors before, so the water connections don't concern me too much.
It's the gas connection that I'm a little tentative about. But if it's a matter of closing the valve and then threading some things together, that doesn't sound too difficult.
But maybe DIY is a bad idea?
If your natural gas cost is low, then I don't see the increased cost efficiency saving you money.
What's considered low?
Looking at our past two monthly bills, I see:
Gas Distribution = X Mcf @ 2.630100
Energy Optimization = X Mcf @ 0.238300
Gas Cost Recover = X Mcf @ 6.144800
Where X is the monthly usage in Mcf.
Let me ask this... what's the feasibility of a DIY job? I see various hookup kits that you can buy ranging from $30 to $50. And I've worked with PEX and SharkBite connectors before, so the water connections don't concern me too much.
It's the gas connection that I'm a little tentative about. But if it's a matter of closing the valve and then threading some things together, that doesn't sound too difficult.
But maybe DIY is a bad idea?
Originally Posted By: barlowc
Originally Posted By: JayhawkRoy
If your natural gas cost is low, then I don't see the increased cost efficiency saving you money.
What's considered low?
Looking at our past two monthly bills, I see:
Gas Distribution = X Mcf @ 2.630100
Energy Optimization = X Mcf @ 0.238300
Gas Cost Recover = X Mcf @ 6.144800
Where X is the monthly usage in Mcf.
Let me ask this... what's the feasibility of a DIY job? I see various hookup kits that you can buy ranging from $30 to $50. And I've worked with PEX and SharkBite connectors before, so the water connections don't concern me too much.
It's the gas connection that I'm a little tentative about. But if it's a matter of closing the valve and then threading some things together, that doesn't sound too difficult.
But maybe DIY is a bad idea?
Well, you want to cut the copper lines, and get rid of the old standard valves, and update them to ball type shutoff valves.
Making the gas connection is not hard, just use the proper sealant and be sure to clean the connections before you apply the sealant. Similar to connecting a gas stove in my opinion.
Originally Posted By: JayhawkRoy
If your natural gas cost is low, then I don't see the increased cost efficiency saving you money.
What's considered low?
Looking at our past two monthly bills, I see:
Gas Distribution = X Mcf @ 2.630100
Energy Optimization = X Mcf @ 0.238300
Gas Cost Recover = X Mcf @ 6.144800
Where X is the monthly usage in Mcf.
Let me ask this... what's the feasibility of a DIY job? I see various hookup kits that you can buy ranging from $30 to $50. And I've worked with PEX and SharkBite connectors before, so the water connections don't concern me too much.
It's the gas connection that I'm a little tentative about. But if it's a matter of closing the valve and then threading some things together, that doesn't sound too difficult.
But maybe DIY is a bad idea?
Well, you want to cut the copper lines, and get rid of the old standard valves, and update them to ball type shutoff valves.
Making the gas connection is not hard, just use the proper sealant and be sure to clean the connections before you apply the sealant. Similar to connecting a gas stove in my opinion.
@JustinH:
yes and no.
Yes, I am more than capable/competent in doing swap job RE: natural gas hot water heater tanks (experienced in dealing with natural gas piping, proper handling, etc.) I've done some "illegal" hot water tanks refitting in the past outside of my region.
No, I wouldn't do it to my house,citing insurance/liability issues. I have someone in the past done hot water heater tank swapping in the past but during a somewhat related flooding incidents to the lower section of the house: insurance company found out that it was done by non-certified personnel and refused to cover the flood damage (section of the rigid copper line burst that is not far away from the water heater tank junction...due to age)..
To keep the long story short: I have weigh'ed my pros and cons and sometimes, you have to pay someone qualified to do the work for you (even thought you as the homeowner is capable of doing so).
Good luck.
Q.
yes and no.
Yes, I am more than capable/competent in doing swap job RE: natural gas hot water heater tanks (experienced in dealing with natural gas piping, proper handling, etc.) I've done some "illegal" hot water tanks refitting in the past outside of my region.
No, I wouldn't do it to my house,citing insurance/liability issues. I have someone in the past done hot water heater tank swapping in the past but during a somewhat related flooding incidents to the lower section of the house: insurance company found out that it was done by non-certified personnel and refused to cover the flood damage (section of the rigid copper line burst that is not far away from the water heater tank junction...due to age)..
To keep the long story short: I have weigh'ed my pros and cons and sometimes, you have to pay someone qualified to do the work for you (even thought you as the homeowner is capable of doing so).
Good luck.
Q.
Between comparable Rheem, Bradford White, and AO Smith tanks, which would you choose?
The Rheem and Bradford White tanks cost the same, but the Rheem would be delivered and I'd have to drive about 35-40 miles round trip to pick up the Bradford White.
The AO Smith would cost $20 more than those two, but like the Rheem, it would be delivered.
The Rheem and Bradford White tanks cost the same, but the Rheem would be delivered and I'd have to drive about 35-40 miles round trip to pick up the Bradford White.
The AO Smith would cost $20 more than those two, but like the Rheem, it would be delivered.
A.O. Smith.
From my research on electric water heaters, all three of those are top quality brands. You won't find any practical difference between them. Choose the cheapest and easiest among the three.
Ed
Ed
I think I'm going to get a Rheem Fury Gas Series model 22V40F1. I can get one for $315 delivered and the reviews on Amazon are pretty good. I'll then install it myself.
I don't have much experiences with gas water heater, so that I didn't post.
My only experience was I bought the house in 1997, the original 1970 tank went kaboom in 2002-2003. I bought Sears demo/slight cosmetic damage 40 gallons tank for less than $250(new was more than $400-500) delivered/installed and still work well today. We use gas for furnace, cooking, water heater and cloth dryer and monthly cost is about $20 in summer and $50-60 in winter. So the cost to heat water is less than $10 a month.
I think I got a new tank because when delivery truck came I saw the guy removed the tank from a box, and no damage at all on the tank. I asked and he said something like contact Sears if it was not exactly what I paid for, he just do his job of installing the tank that he picked up from Sears. I called Sears and they said it is too much problem to exchange to the floor sample that I paid for, and because it was installed so it's a used model and they have to sell it even less than floor sample.
My only experience was I bought the house in 1997, the original 1970 tank went kaboom in 2002-2003. I bought Sears demo/slight cosmetic damage 40 gallons tank for less than $250(new was more than $400-500) delivered/installed and still work well today. We use gas for furnace, cooking, water heater and cloth dryer and monthly cost is about $20 in summer and $50-60 in winter. So the cost to heat water is less than $10 a month.
I think I got a new tank because when delivery truck came I saw the guy removed the tank from a box, and no damage at all on the tank. I asked and he said something like contact Sears if it was not exactly what I paid for, he just do his job of installing the tank that he picked up from Sears. I called Sears and they said it is too much problem to exchange to the floor sample that I paid for, and because it was installed so it's a used model and they have to sell it even less than floor sample.
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