Gas Tank Water Heater Suggestions?

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Looking for natural gas tank water heater, seeing Lowes is significantly cheaper than plumbing supply stores.

Can there be a huge quality difference? Thinking about 50-55 gallon sized one. Thank you all :)
 
Have you considered a Tankless? We love ours and never run out of hot water. Two can shower at the same time and run the dish washer and laundry.

50 gallon gas heater in our house, and I don't think we've ever come close to running out either.

Gas is a whole different beast from electric, and I didn't appreciate just how good they were until living with one.
 
14 year old 50 gallon gas power vent at our place, and I sometimes get only warm water, if I'm the last to shower, with a family of 4. In another recent thread about water heaters, I claimed my unit was 18 years old, but it was replaced under warranty after 4 years due to a slow leak. I think I should be proactive and start looking for replacements.

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I too wouldnt get hung up on brands. I see prices have gone up over the last few years.

A few years ago we had our gas water heater replaced. On Christmas Eve no less.
Anyway, license plumber, good guy in our community, has young kids did the job was glad to give him the work.
I left it up to him on what to install, he did a great job, actually took the effort to clear up what he called improper install by our builder, minor but he didnt have too. They used PEX too close to the fittings on the water heater.

Anyway this is what he put in, said it was a good unit, I believe him, also liked the fact of the Honeywell control on it. (not a big deal and for all I know they all use Honeywell now)
Anyway, its a State Water Heater, he installed it for around $900 at the time which is starting to look like a bargain now.
I suspect this water heater is sold through the trade and not direct to consumers but I haven't looked any further into it.
BTW - I think A-O Smith is the same company as State Industries and I see Lowes sells them under the AO Smith name like the photo below.

https://www.statewaterheaters.com/support/gs6-50-brt/

https://www.bemacsupply.com/buy/product/a-o-smith-state-industries-gs6-50-brt-400/58501

BTW- Im not a fan of a tankless water heaters. But as someone above posted they love theirs.
What I like about traditional tanks is I have 50 gallons of hot water all the time, never run out, no matter how much demand. A poorly sized tankless or poorly made tankless will have issues and depending on what is in your water supply the coils may need regular cleanings to maintain hot water.


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My experience with water heaters (replace a lot of them regularly due to multiple rentals), is that they are location specific instead of brand specific in durability. The Rheem and Bradford White I have last "about" the same amount of time for the "same location" installed. I personally would just buy the longest warranty Rheem Platinum (10 or 12 years I forgot) and just use it till it leaks. I have a plumber that will install for a cheaper price if I buy, instead of him buying from a plumber supply store (they almost went extinct here) and bring it to me.
 
My experience with water heaters (replace a lot of them regularly due to multiple rentals), is that they are location specific instead of brand specific in durability. The Rheem and Bradford White I have last "about" the same amount of time for the "same location" installed. I personally would just buy the longest warranty Rheem Platinum (10 or 12 years I forgot) and just use it till it leaks. I have a plumber that will install for a cheaper price if I buy, instead of him buying from a plumber supply store (they almost went extinct here) and bring it to me.
I don't know why you don't just replace the anode rod. The plumbers can also do it, but it's not something they like to do because that means they won't get a water heater job for a long while. I used to just get the 6 year ones, but now I get the 9 or 12 year ones depending on whatever they have in stock. And yes, I haven't noticed any difference in brands. I think the big box stores are made to a slightly cheaper spec in that the drain valve is typically plastic whereas the supply houses have brass but I don't think there's too much other differences, like you, I found they lasted the same amount of time as each property I bought always had a different mix of water heaters. They all normally failed in the 5-10 year range and if you were lucky, maybe 12. Since I started changing out the rods, I'm close to 20 years on one water heater, the rest are probably 10+ at this stage. As I mentioned in the other thread, get the thicker rod, I think the factory ones are thinner so only last the 5-7 year range, I changed them again after 9 years and the ones I got was the thickest they had so that's why they lasted longer.

I started doing the 12 year ones because I had the thermostat fail before after about 7 years and that would have been covered had it been a longer warranty, that whole part I think was going to be $100+ plus labor to replace it so I just got a new one and the difference between the 6 to 12 was about $150 at the time so I guess it would have paid for itself having the longer warranty on the part. Most of my failures are basically the tank rusting out and leaking, rarely does the thermostat or burner or thermocouple or dip tube go bad. But those can be repaired if they happen.

Also I think it might also depend on how many people are in the place. Maybe this is anecdotal evidence but I remember replacing two water heaters at the same time and the one with 6 people in the unit failed after less than 6 years but the other with just 2 people lasted much longer. I'm thinking maybe less fresh ions in the cold water to cause the tank to rust out faster as two people don't use as much hot water as 6. Or it's just the luck of the draw on how well a particular tank is manufactured.
 
my stiebel eltron electric 220 on demand is great for ME, BUT being just big enough it require a 50A breaker itself, there are various sizes of course + in coldest Pa weather water needs to run slower but its great for me as live mostly alone happily + even with 60A for my garage feed it works as i am the only user. gas is prolly great as its faster BUT the most dangerous IMO + on demand gas is also available in many sizes. i do plumbing + electric so install cost is 00000. with todays high labor especially is costlier areas installing the best is prolly the cheapest + a proper stainless tank should never rust out so replacing the "guts" should be the best value, of course the quality of your water + use comes into play. the coil used in many furnaces usually last a LONG time + is cheeper while heating your house BUT summer makes things different + running a furnace for JUST domestic water is prolly more $$$ + thats why i like tankless as it heats domestic water WITHOUT radiating heat from a furnace!!
 
I don't know why you don't just replace the anode rod. The plumbers can also do it, but it's not something they like to do because that means they won't get a water heater job for a long while. I used to just get the 6 year ones, but now I get the 9 or 12 year ones depending on whatever they have in stock. And yes, I haven't noticed any difference in brands. I think the big box stores are made to a slightly cheaper spec in that the drain valve is typically plastic whereas the supply houses have brass but I don't think there's too much other differences, like you, I found they lasted the same amount of time as each property I bought always had a different mix of water heaters. They all normally failed in the 5-10 year range and if you were lucky, maybe 12. Since I started changing out the rods, I'm close to 20 years on one water heater, the rest are probably 10+ at this stage. As I mentioned in the other thread, get the thicker rod, I think the factory ones are thinner so only last the 5-7 year range, I changed them again after 9 years and the ones I got was the thickest they had so that's why they lasted longer.

I started doing the 12 year ones because I had the thermostat fail before after about 7 years and that would have been covered had it been a longer warranty, that whole part I think was going to be $100+ plus labor to replace it so I just got a new one and the difference between the 6 to 12 was about $150 at the time so I guess it would have paid for itself having the longer warranty on the part. Most of my failures are basically the tank rusting out and leaking, rarely does the thermostat or burner or thermocouple or dip tube go bad. But those can be repaired if they happen.

Also I think it might also depend on how many people are in the place. Maybe this is anecdotal evidence but I remember replacing two water heaters at the same time and the one with 6 people in the unit failed after less than 6 years but the other with just 2 people lasted much longer. I'm thinking maybe less fresh ions in the cold water to cause the tank to rust out faster as two people don't use as much hot water as 6. Or it's just the luck of the draw on how well a particular tank is manufactured.
Most of the failure I have are on 1 particular spot, closest to a dryer vent that cannot be relocated. That particular one typically last 5 year and the adjacent one (in parallel for an apartment building of 4 units) last 10 years. I suspect the reason for failure is the dryer sheet corrosion from outside, so anode won't help.

The other water heaters last usually 15-20 years for me, having a more durable anode is something I'm willing to pay extra for. The labor to change out those anodes for all those units, in my area, will easily be more expensive than buying a longer warranty one to begin with. I don't believe all of the failures I have are worn anodes.
 
my stiebel eltron electric 220 on demand is great for ME, BUT being just big enough it require a 50A breaker itself, there are various sizes of course + in coldest Pa weather water needs to run slower but its great for me as live mostly alone happily + even with 60A for my garage feed it works as i am the only user. gas is prolly great as its faster BUT the most dangerous IMO + on demand gas is also available in many sizes. i do plumbing + electric so install cost is 00000. with todays high labor especially is costlier areas installing the best is prolly the cheapest + a proper stainless tank should never rust out so replacing the "guts" should be the best value, of course the quality of your water + use comes into play. the coil used in many furnaces usually last a LONG time + is cheeper while heating your house BUT summer makes things different + running a furnace for JUST domestic water is prolly more $$$ + thats why i like tankless as it heats domestic water WITHOUT radiating heat from a furnace!!
The main problem with the tankless systems is that you normally need to upsize the gas line, normally 3/4 and then you need to do the venting so it goes directly outside instead of using a chimney. And most of them just come with just a 5 year warranty on parts/labor. You can get 12 year warranty water heaters although that's only parts. And because there's so many different makes on them, if a part fails 5+ years from now, good luck trying to find a place that sells the part. Gas water heaters tanks are pretty basic and the parts are simple to get and replace. Also if you do the math, you don't really save that much money on the instant side of things and of course as a landlord, the tenants pay the gas bill so there isn't actually any reason for a landlord to switch to a tankless system. Changing the anode rod would probably get you 15-20+ on a regular gas water tank, will your tankless last that long? Anode rod is still relatively cheap, you can get one at Home Depot in a ship to store for $22.44. If you have a bunch of water heaters, there's still places that sell them for $13.99 but they charge shipping unless you buy enough to avoid shipping, that would mean buying 18 of them. Either stock up on them or split it with a landlord group.

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Rheem-PROTECH-0-900-in-Dia-Magnesium-Anode-Rod-SP11526C/311393216

https://www.westsidewholesale.com/rheem-sp11526c.html
 
Most of the failure I have are on 1 particular spot, closest to a dryer vent that cannot be relocated. That particular one typically last 5 year and the adjacent one (in parallel for an apartment building of 4 units) last 10 years. I suspect the reason for failure is the dryer sheet corrosion from outside, so anode won't help.

The other water heaters last usually 15-20 years for me, having a more durable anode is something I'm willing to pay extra for. The labor to change out those anodes for all those units, in my area, will easily be more expensive than buying a longer warranty one to begin with. I don't believe all of the failures I have are worn anodes.
When I had a plumber do it, it ended up costing me about $50 a water heater including the anode. He did 4 at a time and I think I paid him about $150 and it took less than 2 hours. Now maybe about the same as I just have my handyman do it and I rolled in the cost of my Milwaukee 2767 so he could do it as a one man job and it didn't take that long. Probably at least 75-90% of my failures are water leaks which is basically the tank rusting out from the anode rod being gone. Very rarely is it the thermostat, burner or dip tube or other issue.

When you have one dying after 5 years, I'd go with a 12 year water heater. Most of the time when mine died, they were in the 5-7 range and sometimes you got lucky and got 10 years. Til I started replacing the anode rods.
 
When I had a plumber do it, it ended up costing me about $50 a water heater including the anode. He did 4 at a time and I think I paid him about $150 and it took less than 2 hours. Now maybe about the same as I just have my handyman do it and I rolled in the cost of my Milwaukee 2767 so he could do it as a one man job and it didn't take that long. Probably at least 75-90% of my failures are water leaks which is basically the tank rusting out from the anode rod being gone. Very rarely is it the thermostat, burner or dip tube or other issue.

When you have one dying after 5 years, I'd go with a 12 year water heater. Most of the time when mine died, they were in the 5-7 range and sometimes you got lucky and got 10 years. Til I started replacing the anode rods.
Just to have a plumber showing up at your door here is about $300-500, mine install for about $600, all labor only cost. As I mentioned previously most of mine last quite long and they are often 15-25 years. Maybe I can get by with only 6 year warranty one, but I think for my situation replace when leaking (15-25 years) seems to make the most sense, and the one that fails early, fails early regardless of 6 or 12 years warranty model I install.
 
Just to have a plumber showing up at your door here is about $300-500, mine install for about $600, all labor only cost. As I mentioned previously most of mine last quite long and they are often 15-25 years. Maybe I can get by with only 6 year warranty one, but I think for my situation replace when leaking (15-25 years) seems to make the most sense, and the one that fails early, fails early regardless of 6 or 12 years warranty model I install.
Plumbers around here are in the $115-$150 range. But you have to shop around. Found a hungry one on Craigslist a while ago, at the time I didn't realize he was a drunk but he was good enough to fix basic plumbing leaks and installs nothing super complex like putting in an entire system but he was only $50-$75/hour, he charged by the job mostly. The handyman, general contractor types are more like $30-$60 an hour here. Sometimes the plumber was cheaper than the handyman because the handyman would take several hours and the plumber could just bang out the whole job in about an hour.
 
We have had a Bosch tankless for over 15 years. The gas company installed a larger meter and lines for free. Our combined draw with all units running is about 400,000 btu.

I de-scale the unit with vinegar and a small aquarium pump every 2 years. Takes about an hour.

Other than the descaling it’s been maintenance free.
 
I would only consider a tankless on a new house or maybe on an existing house if you happen to be increasing electrical or natural gas capacity for something else anyway.
 
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