Garage Door Opener Malfunction

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Hi all,

Tldr; garage door won't open/close while outside of garage. Need troubleshooting tips/ideas.

I've been troubleshooting my garage door for three days now and don't seem to be making any progress. I've been in communication with Chamberlain C/S and they've been pretty helpful, however, they have already tried to brush me off once and claim it's a HomeLink issue. I feel like this may occur again so I wanted to come here and see if you good folks have any ideas.

Things to know:
Chamberlain Whisper Drive #WD822KD
House built in 2005, I believe this is the original garage door opener.
2 LED builds in the garage door opener since I bought the house in November of '15
Brief (30-60 sec.) power outage on 11/20
Magnetic Thermometer placed near opener button on 11/20
Problem noticed on 11/21

Problem: On 11/21 my wife noticed that the garage door wasn't activating using the HomeLink in her Mazda. Wouldn't open or close. Would work inside the garage but not outside the garage. Once we got back home after Thanksgiving I started troubleshooting and speaking with Chamberlain. Instruction from Chamberlain was to reprogram both the Alfa and Mazda using their instructions. I had trouble reprogramming the Alfa so I was told to clear all programs out of the main unit. I did and started reprogramming remotes and HomeLinks. I used a Chamberlain remote, not an aftermarket universal. Remote programmed fine, moved onto the Mazda and it programmed fine, moved onto the Alfa and it wouldn't program. Decided to call it a day on the Alfa and test out he remote and the Mazda. The remote worked from inside the garage, but it too wouldn't from outside. I did some proximity testing and discovered that the remote would only operate if it was within approximately 4 feet of the garage door opener. Moved onto the Mazda, it opened and closed the garage from the inside, pulled out into the driveway and all functions stopped. Now I'm thinking that we've definitely started to hone in on a proximity/reception issue. I share this with the C/S rep.

He gets back to me and tells me that it's apparent that the issue is a HomeLink problem and not a Chamberlain one. Nope, that's absolutely not apparent I tell him as the problem is also occurring with the Chamberlain report. He gives me some more testing to do, part of which includes LED bulb removal. I had no idea that LED bulbs can cause RF interference, but again, these bulbs have been in since I bought the place so it'd be odd that all of a sudden they'd be causing the issue. I troubleshoot anyway. Before I do though, I decide to attempt to program the Alfa using the Alfa instructions, boom, first try and it pairs perfectly. Garage door opens and closes from inside the garage, there's a good sign I think. So I move it to the driveway and start troubleshooting. First thing I do is remove the thermometer that I had recently placed near the button, who knows maybe that was causing a gremlin, but alas it didn't do anything (which I expected). So I moved onto the LED bulbs, removed the bulbs and tested the Alfa while in the driveway. It worked! Wow, I can't believe that it was these dumb bulbs causing the problem. I open and close several times and all works decent enough. I notice that closing the garage takes only one push but to open the garage it took two pushes of the HomeLink button.

Now I start bringing in the variables again. First thing is the thermometer being placed back to it's original location. Test the garage door, yup, still works. Now I go to replace the bulbs, I attempted to use CFLs but for some reason they wouldn't work in the garage door opener so instead I replaced with LEDs again (different brand), tested it again and success, everything still works! I put everything away and park the car for the night. Let Chamberlain know that it appears as though the problem might be resolved. This morning I go to leave, the garage door opens just fine from inside the garage. I pull into the driveway, closing the garage door took a few pushes of the button but it did in fact go down. Go out and run my errands. Come back and nothing. The garage door once again will not open. I go in through the front door and head straight to the garage. I move the thermometer, jump on the ladder and remove the bulbs. Go back out the front door and try to open the garage again, still no dice.

I'm at a loss right now, I have no idea what else I can do for troubleshooting or to remedy this. From the cars, it works while inside the garage but not externally. Using the Chamberlain remote, it works inside but within a close range of the opener. It has to be a reception issue on the unit itself, right?
 
Originally Posted by Warstud
Magnetic Thermometer placed near opener button on 11/20. What's this about ?


Wanted to start tracking the humidity in the garage. Bought a thermometer with a magnetic backing so I placed it next to the light switch by the doorway. This is the thermometer.
 
It's possible the transceiver is flaky and working sometimes and not other times. I saw this before in my dad's Stanley opener, drove us nuts and then eventually failed all together.

It could just be in need of a simple reboot, I would try this first just to be safe. unplug the Garage Door Opener and let it sit unplugged for say a 1/2 hour and then plug it back in again. Also does this opener have a back up battery in it? If so you will need to disconnect this during this process.
 
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Your original post said "near opener button" anyways I would remove it and see if it's causing an interference with the remote.
 
RamFan, Do you have Verizon FiOS as your internet and cable TV provider?

If so, the RF interference is probably emanating from a failing backup power battery for the Outside Network Terminal. Sounds crazy, but I chased a similar situation for ~3 weeks before I accidentally figured it out. If you have FiOS, you can test it by disconnecting the small AGM battery inside the backup power supply housing. You must disconnect the battery from the circuit, not just unplug the power adapter.

I would also take the LED bulbs out of the equation by temporarily using incandescent bulbs which should not emit RF interference.
 
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It appears you may have an RFI (Radio Frequency Interference) issue. Google this is the easiest advice to give. You could be getting interference from various items, several of which are not in your house. This list of items which could possibly interfere with a garage door was copied from a site. I might start with wifi. Did a neighbor get a new powerful setup? Wifi security cameras?
Nearby airports
Television or Radio transmission towers - the ones on Queen Anne hill are notorious for sucking the life out of Garage Door Opener range.
Military Installations and ships cruising up and down the sound and ship canal
Power Lines
Cell Phone towers
Appliances within 10' - 15' of the receiver whether they are running or not. Mike found a microwave in a garage door that wasn't even plugged in that gave off enough interference to keep the operator from working.
Plug in transformers like the ones used for security systems, sprinkler controls, and cordless power tool chargers.
Wireless doorbells
Computers
Wireless networks/Wi-Fi
Fax Machines
Copiers
Cordless Phones
Yard light timers and motion detectors
Christmas tree lights. Since people started decorating with LED (Light Emitting Diode) Christmas lights the calls in December complaining about reduced range on Remotes have gone up dramatically.
Any number of small appliances. Searching online I found one of the most common culprits were cheap clock radios.
Air Conditioning or heating system thermostats
Florescent lighting fixtures
Halogen lighting fixtures
Ham Radio transmitters. One customer complained that between 4:00 - 6:00 pm each day her garage door wouldn't work. It took a few trips out and her asking around the neighbors to find out one of them was on his Ham radio at that time each day.
Car battery chargers
Motor Homes have all kinds of things that interfere.
Occasionally the RFI is coming into the garage by way of the house wiring because many houses have the circuit breaker boxes near the Garage Door Openers.
 
Originally Posted by StevieC
It's possible the transceiver is flaky and working sometimes and not other times. I saw this before in my dad's Stanley opener, drove us nuts and then eventually failed all together.

It could just be in need of a simple reboot, I would try this first just to be safe. unplug the Garage Door Opener and let it sit unplugged for say a 1/2 hour and then plug it back in again. Also does this opener have a back up battery in it? If so you will need to disconnect this during this process.



I'm not certain, but I do not believe it has a battery backup. I'll give this a shot.

Originally Posted by PimTac
Move the thermometer.


It has been.

Originally Posted by Nukeman7
RamFan, Do you have Verizon FiOS as your internet and cable TV provider?

If so, the RF interference is probably emanating from a failing backup power battery for the Outside Network Terminal. Sounds crazy, but I chased a similar situation for ~3 weeks before I accidentally figured it out. If you have FiOS, you can test it by disconnecting the small AGM battery inside the backup power supply housing. You must disconnect the battery from the circuit, not just unplug the power adapter.

I would also take the LED bulbs out of the equation by temporarily using incandescent bulbs which should not emit RF interference.


Nope, no FiOS. I agree on the bulbs, after removing the LEDs (the second time) I kept them out and won't replace until this is fixed. I have a CFL in the ceiling that will suffice for the time being.
 
I'd take the bulbs out altogether and retry. I think, way back, a bulb socket came loose and was a great source of RFI.

LED christmas lights?
http://doordiva.blogspot.com/2012/12/rf-interference-led-lighting.html

Maybe a LDR00001.
The Model FT-1 is a Radio Interference Field Tester is designed for testing the RF environment around 318 MHz. It will decode any Megacode formatted RF data transmission and then give a short "Beep" signal from the loudspeaker. Ambient RF noise or possible interference can be monitored. A steady hissing noise is normally heard. This is the background noise of the radio. Any steady pulsing, low frequency buzzing or even voice traffic indicates an interfering signal that may reduce the maximum range of the system. In most cases the effects of these interfering signals can be reduced or eliminated, but the techniques vary due to type of installation and antennas.

Seeing the signal with a test device costs a lot of money, and doesn't really get to the solution.
Probably cheaper overall to get a new garage door opener.
I seem to remember going down that path a long time ago.
I'm pretty sure I tried CFLs and went back to tungsten-filament bulbs, to eliminate that possibility.

The advise I seem to recall is the signal is pulsed off and on, to save battery, and it requires equipment costing thousands of dollars in order to properly detect and troubleshoot, but the boards are inexpensive to manufacture.

You can Google 318MHz interference for more ideas.
 
Thank you everyone for the suggestions and tips so far, it is greatly appreciated!

I texted my buddy on the HOA board to see if he's heard of anyone else having issues recently. Apparently 5-6 people have reported this so far starting about a week and a half ago. We recently switched to digital ComEd meters, I'm curious to know if these units are interfering. The plot thickens.
 
LED bulbs would only provide interference when on.. so if coming back the bulbs shouldnt be on or creating any interference.
(could still be some other interference)
I'd chalk this upto a possible flaky garage door opener. Possibly something failing on it.
could also be the new meter but that would just be odd(unless defective)

Electricity/interference can be "Amazing". For example my powerline networking was popping a 20 amp breaker with a 500w load on it but I have new cafci breakers which have some sort of shortage/arcing detection.

PS anyone out there with issues where sometimes their door opens or closes halfway and stops(then reverses).. remember there are usually adjustments for downforce and upforce on the door opener as well.

I had that issue after my door spring broke in for a few years.
 
Originally Posted by RamFan
Thank you everyone for the suggestions and tips so far, it is greatly appreciated!

I texted my buddy on the HOA board to see if he's heard of anyone else having issues recently. Apparently 5-6 people have reported this so far starting about a week and a half ago. We recently switched to digital ComEd meters, I'm curious to know if these units are interfering. The plot thickens.


halftime in the ball game. need a break.
your post is interesting. too many having this issue, at the same time, to be coincidence.
i didn't see this mentioned,but try unplugging the unit, for a reset. nothing to lose.
 
Originally Posted by RamFan
Thank you everyone for the suggestions and tips so far, it is greatly appreciated!

I texted my buddy on the HOA board to see if he's heard of anyone else having issues recently. Apparently 5-6 people have reported this so far starting about a week and a half ago. We recently switched to digital ComEd meters, I'm curious to know if these units are interfering. The plot thickens.


If I were you, I'd start wearing a tin foil hat until this is resolved.
 
Most of those new meters use RF to transmit readings to the vehicle the meter reader is driving. How close is the meter to your garage? How close are your neighbors' meters to your garage? You might have a situation where the meter is overpowering the frequency that the remote openers are using. Can you put some foil temporarily around the meter to block the signal?
 
Originally Posted by Burt
RamFan said:
Thank you everyone for the suggestions and tips so far, it is greatly appreciated!

I texted my buddy on the HOA board to see if he's heard of anyone else having issues recently. Apparently 5-6 people have reported this so far starting about a week and a half ago. We recently switched to digital ComEd meters, I'm curious to know if these units are interfering. The plot thickens.


If I were you, I'd start wearing a tin foil hat until this is resolved.

where is antique when we need him. he would be blaming aliens, the military industrial complex, or the jews for this problem.
 
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