I purchased fumoto valve, F-106. While I was changing the oil last night, I decided to install it. I hand screwed it in until snug and gave it 1/4 turn according to the directions. I was disappointed that the valve lever ended up pointing straight down. This might be overly cautious of me, but knowing my luck, some road debris would hook the lever and dump my oil while driving. Is there something I can do to get the lever pointing in any other direction besides straight down? I though about putting a stainless steel washer between the valve and grommet to see if that would work. Any suggestions?
Fumoto Valve Question About Installing
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I don't know if this is going to help, but I read another thread somewhere where a guy took a simple screw type hose clamp and gently tightened it around the body and lever on the fumoto valve. It kept the lever from accidently moving. You know how you have to move the lever out before you can turn it. I haven't tried it, but it made sense. Maybe even a zip tie around the thing would ease your mind some. My fumoto lever also hangs down, but I have not had a problem yet. BTW - I believe they're a quality product, I love mine. I'm regular on oil changes and have stripped a few drain bolts because of the constant in and out. Fumoto valve solved that problem.
Installed F106 with the adapter ADL106 on my Civic Sedan during the weekend. The lever end up sideway and slightly to the bottom....would have prefer the lever to be on the top too.
Would adding additonal one washer between the drain valve and the adapter cause leaks?
Would adding additonal one washer between the drain valve and the adapter cause leaks?
I'm thinking of a way to modify a regular drain plug so a Fumoto will not be necessary, if you don't mind waiting a while to drain:
With a hacksaw, cut a shallow groove in the part of the drain plug that faces the oil. It has to be deep enough so when you unscrew the plug most of the way, it uncovers the groove, allowing the oil to drain, but not allowing the plug to fall out. And it should be shallow enough that the oil stays in when the plug is screwed in.
If I can find a longer drain plug, there will be lots of room for this slot to be cut. You could even drill a 1/8" hole down into the plug, and another one in from the side, making a port that gets uncovered when you unscrew it part way. Or a diagonal hole. It turns the drain plug into a valve.
With a hacksaw, cut a shallow groove in the part of the drain plug that faces the oil. It has to be deep enough so when you unscrew the plug most of the way, it uncovers the groove, allowing the oil to drain, but not allowing the plug to fall out. And it should be shallow enough that the oil stays in when the plug is screwed in.
If I can find a longer drain plug, there will be lots of room for this slot to be cut. You could even drill a 1/8" hole down into the plug, and another one in from the side, making a port that gets uncovered when you unscrew it part way. Or a diagonal hole. It turns the drain plug into a valve.
Nice idea Oilyriser but you still have to torque down the bolt the right amount. Your idea will make collecting a sample easier though. Still, for the time and money, you might as well get a Fumoto.
Well, the sweet thing about Mr. Fumoto is the lever. No wrenching needed. Pak, what you do is stack washers size-appropriate to the mating surface of the oil drain bolt seat to get the lever where you want it. In my case (I put mine back into service awhile back, don't care if the dealer likes it or not), the lever is up high, probably at the noon position. It would be a truly freaky thing on my car for anything to hit that lever in the manner your finger needs to move the valve to open.
As to tight, I have mine wrenched on VERY tightly. If that's a 1/4-turn, that's nice, but I wasn't taking chances. Between that and the two crushers I had to use to space it properly, it's not coming out on it's own. For the truly paranoid, a tiny carbon bit, a vise and a foot of stainless steel safety wire through a hole in the lever, then wire that thing hard in the closed position would be the appropriate measure. But then with all the extra work, what would be the point in using it to begin with?
As to tight, I have mine wrenched on VERY tightly. If that's a 1/4-turn, that's nice, but I wasn't taking chances. Between that and the two crushers I had to use to space it properly, it's not coming out on it's own. For the truly paranoid, a tiny carbon bit, a vise and a foot of stainless steel safety wire through a hole in the lever, then wire that thing hard in the closed position would be the appropriate measure. But then with all the extra work, what would be the point in using it to begin with?
I understand your concern. Mine points down too. However, to open the drain the lever must be lifted forward and then turned. It is unlikely for a forward moving car to move the lever in that direction along with a twist to the side. If anything hits while the car is moving forward it will seat the lever more firmly backward into the notch that locks it in place. I've had mine installed for about three years now with no issues at all.
JTK
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I had the same situation with the fumoto on my 2002 Isusu Rodeo 3.2L. All I did was throw a vinyl dust cap over the hose barb. You could have the valve wide open & not loose a drop unless you twist/yank the cap off the barb. You can get rubber/vinyl caps in the bulk fastener section at any home centers.
Joel
Joel
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