I did look-up the classic.
In fact, I just re-checked and those times are correct. I don't know a single tech who would willingly r/r that style of fuel pump on a 15-yr old Indiana truck for 1.4 hr c/p.
Fuel pump replacement cost
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In fact, I just re-checked and those times are correct. I don't know a single tech who would willingly r/r that style of fuel pump on a 15-yr old Indiana truck for 1.4 hr c/p.
I understand that but the jist of the procedure is similar. Actually they call for 1.8 hours on that car.
Do they have a choice? If the boss tells you to do it, don't you have to if you want to keep working there?
It seems like you fail to grasp the concept of "discretion."
I haven't worked for anybody in a long time so that may be true, but still, if your boss says do this job, and you decline often enough, you might be looking for another job.
Of course, but if something truly doesn't make sense, a decent employer would collaborate with all parties to find an amicable solution.
If it really takes them the whole 1.4hrs, they're bad enough (or inexperienced) at their job that they'd probably take anything thrown their way. Right tools and experience doing it, that's less than 1.0 hr job.
and i’m still charging them well above book time
welcome to america. if you don’t like paying $120/hr and 200% markup move to europe or somewhere where they work for free
I dropped the tank in my 1993 Suburban twice to replace the fuel pump. And it's a huge 46 gal tank. It was not that bad to drop the tank.
But some of the fuel line connections were corroded and no way for me to undo them even with a flare wrench. So I had to replace the fuel gauge sensor assembly.
Second time was a lot easier and nothing snapped.
OEM pump only. If there is a sock on the pump intake it needs to be replaced also.
Thats Mitchell which I get through napa tracs. Mitchell includes tank drain and fill whereas alldata does not so the mitchell time is a bit higher to make up for that. It isnt a 20 minute job on that truck to drop the tank because of how the plumbing for the evap system is run. In the rust belt where he is and I am its easier to pull the tank that than to lift the bed
We cut a hole in my old bosses blazer. I even put a hinge on it so it can hinge when flipped open.
I think it was about $600 Canadian when it was done on my 2005 years ago. They say it's much quicker to just remove the box and do it. It was just a rusted out sending unit, pump was okay but the whole fuel pump module was replaced with a spectra premium. Still working fine now about 4 or 5 years later and 50k miles later
About a month ago I dropped the tank to replace my fuel pump on my 2007 Ram 1500 Hemi. Had 14 gallons of gas in it. Used a motorcycle jack and a floor jack together to change it. Original pump lasted 220K miles. Bought an identical Carter pump at NAPA. It was around $250. This is not a job that this old man wants to ever do again. By the way, this tank can not be siphoned. There is a ball type object going into the tank that only lets gas in.
I'm embarrassed to say how long fuel and electrical connections usually take me. I swear all the fancy plastic connectors or fuel line clips are meant to be easily snapped together and never come apart.
With experience and familiarity I know it gets easier for experienced techs.
There's other (potentially) unforseen problems like clip updates.....on my '11 SuperDuty one of the "fingernail" clips had been updated from red to pink (or pink to red?) ....seemingly because the old style was pretty much guaranteed to break. These are NOT clips you're getting from AutoZone....it's dealer-only and took my dealer 2 days to get (although 1 day of that was weather and Colo roads).
That said, if you use labor/shop software it might warn you to just order such things ahead of time??
With experience and familiarity I know it gets easier for experienced techs.
There's other (potentially) unforseen problems like clip updates.....on my '11 SuperDuty one of the "fingernail" clips had been updated from red to pink (or pink to red?) ....seemingly because the old style was pretty much guaranteed to break. These are NOT clips you're getting from AutoZone....it's dealer-only and took my dealer 2 days to get (although 1 day of that was weather and Colo roads).
That said, if you use labor/shop software it might warn you to just order such things ahead of time??
According to AllData Pro which is usually what I use for GM labor times calls for 2.4 hours plus 3/10ths to diag the pump, Does not include draining the tank....I'd charge a flat 2.4 hours as here in Texas you can lift the bed easily.
I'd have to call the dealer for parts pricing, But Alldata is usually pretty decent for giving correct dealer list, About $400.
Say about $700-$750 with tax & shop supplies.
I'd have to call the dealer for parts pricing, But Alldata is usually pretty decent for giving correct dealer list, About $400.
Say about $700-$750 with tax & shop supplies.
That sounds reasonable.
We try our best to not break anything, A good tip for Electrical connectors & Quick connects is to blow all the Dirt/Debris out of the interface with shop air.
*For Electrical Connectors, After blowing all the crud out, Push IN while simultaneously depressing the lock, Then pull on it.
*For Quick Connect Fuel & EVAP Connectors, After blowing all the crud out, Spray the connector with a Penetrant, Work the connector to break it free. Push it inward.....
If it has a removable or a pop-up clip/lock attempt to do that.
If it has a push to release tab....Push on it a few times to free it up, Pull lightly on the connector & it should release.
Cold temperatures makes thing brittle, I use a Heat Gun A LOT in the winter months, You just want to heat it up not Cook/Melt things.
But what about a truck that's spent 15 years in the salt belt.
Don't know as I don't have to work on rust buckets. I'd imagine pulling the tank & buying straps & hardware if needed would be the process.
I'm sure the captured nuts on the bed would break free in the rust belt making bed removal unfeasible.
I'm sure the captured nuts on the bed would break free in the rust belt making bed removal unfeasible.
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