Fuel pump replacement cost

[D60]

We try our best to not break anything, A good tip for Electrical connectors & Quick connects is to blow all the Dirt/Debris out of the interface with shop air.
*For Electrical Connectors, After blowing all the crud out, Push IN while simultaneously depressing the lock, Then pull on it.
*For Quick Connect Fuel & EVAP Connectors, After blowing all the crud out, Spray the connector with a Penetrant, Work the connector to break it free. Push it inward.....
If it has a removable or a pop-up clip/lock attempt to do that.
If it has a push to release tab....Push on it a few times to free it up, Pull lightly on the connector & it should release.

Cold temperatures makes thing brittle, I use a Heat Gun A LOT in the winter months, You just want to heat it up not Cook/Melt things.

Oh I completely agree. And I've adopted all those tricks. I blow everything out really well with shop air, then WD40. Still, we just dropped a tank on a '13 Express AWD, and, again, it was embarrassing how long we fought some of the evap and electrical connectors. And I learned awhile back to press together, then try to release tab, then pull apart. Still, the best laid plans.....

Oh, and don't even get me started on filler necks, although this Express wasn't bad.

Might have just been incompetence, I'll take that. But I hate breaking shtuff. Oh well, the Webasto gas heater is in and the van hasn't exploded yet....now heating the interior with petrol....

 

[D60]

According to AllData Pro which is usually what I use for GM labor times calls for 2.4 hours plus 3/10ths to diag the pump, Does not include draining the tank....I'd charge a flat 2.4 hours as here in Texas you can lift the bed easily.

I'd have to call the dealer for parts pricing, But Alldata is usually pretty decent for giving correct dealer list, About $400.

Say about $700-$750 with tax & shop supplies.

This is about what I'd charge someone.

There's always a huge disparity between shop costs and rates and DIY. Just because you're paying ~$200 for a pump at O'Reilly or RA does NOT mean you should expect to pay that for the part at a shop. Shop markup can be 100% or more. Some say it's greed but it's part of the business model and necessary to cover all the expenses a shop has.

I'm completely in favor of DIY -- that's why I started doing my own work years and years ago. But if you want someone else to do it who has a building, a lift, insurance, electricity, a slew of specialty tools and skilled labor....you're gonna pay. If you don't like that fact, then DIY....and I don't mean to sound passive aggressive about that, it's just life: pay someone else or save a lot of money but invest a lot of your own time and DIY. Pick your poison. 'Tis the way the world works

And for a GM, I'd only do Bosch because that was OEM. I know Bosch in general is sketchy but the OEM pump in my '05 Yukon was Bosch and the OEM pump in a '13 Express van was Bosch. I made the mistake of Delphi in my '05 Yukon and the fuel gauge never worked right again -- annoying!

 

[350Rocket]

But what about a truck that's spent 15 years in the salt belt.

Mine apparently the bed came up no issues, it was about 14 years old at the time. Undercoated every second year. I'm sure it would be a different story if it was a Dodge product that never undercoated.

 

[Timmastertech]

But what about a truck that's spent 15 years in the salt belt.

We dont lift beds to change fuel pumps unless the truck is real clean or there is another compelling reason to go that route in the rust belt. It can turn into a major can of worms. Its a judgement call if and how much time to add to an estimate based on the condition of the truck. In a worst case you can usually cut the straps and deal with the hardware once the tank is out. Usually we quote the nylon lines that run from the hard lines in front of the tank on a chevy truck up to the pump especially if the pump is a metal bodied pump. The pump nipples like to seize into the quick connects and the pump is usually so rotted that they break off when you start wiggling and you spend more time saving the lines than new lines cost.

 

[mattd]

We try our best to not break anything, A good tip for Electrical connectors & Quick connects is to blow all the Dirt/Debris out of the interface with shop air.
*For Electrical Connectors, After blowing all the crud out, Push IN while simultaneously depressing the lock, Then pull on it.
*For Quick Connect Fuel & EVAP Connectors, After blowing all the crud out, Spray the connector with a Penetrant, Work the connector to break it free. Push it inward.....
If it has a removable or a pop-up clip/lock attempt to do that.
If it has a push to release tab....Push on it a few times to free it up, Pull lightly on the connector & it should release.

Cold temperatures makes thing brittle, I use a Heat Gun A LOT in the winter months, You just want to heat it up not Cook/Melt things.

It gets cold in Texas?! Just kidding.

Beds will never come off up here after a few years so it always drop the tank.

 

[The Critic]

So….would any of the techs here do the job for 1.4 hrs?

 

[mattd]

Not me, not in this environment

 

[Skippy722]

I feel like the people complaining about shops charging “too much” are the same people who complain that shops hire “hacks.” If you want it cheap and fast, it ain’t gonna be good.

 

[PF52]

So….would any of the techs here do the job for 1.4 hrs?

I keep coming back to this thread every time it gets bumped..... Just to see if the OP got it for 1.4 hrs or not.

 

[vwmaniaman]

About the comment about Dodge rust. Some years rust worse than others. My 2007 is like new underneath. I bought it with 182K already on it. Looked like new underneath. We have car washes here with bottom blasters. I have a membership at these car washes and for $25/mo they will wash it every day if I want. My bolts were all clean and rust free. I didn't raise the bed to change mine due to the 5th wheel hitch mounts. Had 2 straps and 2 bolts and all those bloody hoses. I replaced two of the clips with legs because I didn't trust them. They seemed brittle to me. It is working better than ever since now my PO465 error is gone and remote start works again.

 

[Junk]

Name brand Fuel pump $200
Labor 1.4 hours $150 at indy shop
Misc shop supplies and hardware, tax.

Total about $400.

Here's a more accurate estimate. Book time on this pump is actually 2.9 hours. Also, you're not paying $200 for the fuel pump, as that's less than what the pump even costs. List price on the various pumps for this truck assuming it's a 1500 with a 5.3 range from $470 to $700 depending on brand and bed length options. Our matrix doesn't necessarily mark parts up all the way to list price, but I'd definitely say a realistic estimate for this vehicle in our area would be around $1100.

 

[levi]

I keep coming back to this thread every time it gets bumped..... Just to see if the OP got it for 1.4 hrs or not.

Sorry for the delay.

Mechanic/shop had it for 3 days. Wanted to be able to do cold starts in the morning because that is when I always had the issue of hard starting.

They could not replicate the problem. Always started right up without any hesitation. They checked it each afternoon, as well. Fuel pressure was always fine.

Picked it up this afternoon, no charge. Will bring it back if problem returns. Glad he didn't go ahead and replace the fuel pump, saying well, that's got to be the problem.

I'm satisfied with his effort and honesty. Know full well the problem may return.

 

[Chris142]

So….would any of the techs here do the job for 1.4 hrs?

What's the hourly rate? $300? Sure!

 

[GON]

On my youngest Son's 1998 S10 ZR2, had what we thought was a fuel pump failure. Would not start at certain times, other times just fine.

Ended up being corrosion on the fuel pump ground. GM used the smallest stranded ground wire for the fuel pump on the S10. The ground was not anywhere near the fuel pump. The fuel pump was grounded on the drivers side of the frame at the rear of the bed. Not sure GM could have found a farther point to ground the fuel pump, or a thinner wire. I cut off the end of the ground wire, put on a new connector, solved the problem.

 

[zzyzzx]

On a start, turn the ignition on and wait for the fuel to prime before starting.