Fuel Line Quick Disconnect Connectors ?

[Merkava_4]

Have you guys ever changed these ?

They're the connectors that connect to the fuel rail. My GM 3800 has two. The fuel lines are a hard plastic, so from what I gather on YouTube, you're supposed to soften the line with a heat gun before trying to slide the line onto the brass barbed splice connector. Is that the best way to do it ?

 

[The_Jeff]

Heat gun sounds good. I used a coffee mug with boiling water and could only get up a few barbs. Held fine but had me concerned.

When you get ready to jam it on, go for broke. Once it stops, it stops. It's very, very tight and you don't want to twist too much or you'll bust the plastic.

I wouldn't use a heat gun that could plausibly throw sparks (HF?)

 

[NYEngineer]

I've also used hot water. Worked fine but like eljefino said, do it fast.

 

[Merkava_4]

Originally Posted By: eljefino
I wouldn't use a heat gun that could plausibly throw sparks (HF?)


The guy on YouTube is using a Harbor Freight heat gun. You're saying they throw sparks ?

 

[ron350]

What is the problem?
Did you break a end connector or is it just leaking?

 

[Blinker]

I wouldnt heat it too much because you will be buying a new fuel line if u crack it or compromise the plastic. I was under the impression that the whole line needs to be replaced if the connector breaks.

 

[Merkava_4]

Originally Posted By: ron350
What is the problem?Did you break a end connector or is it just leaking?


The connector on the back rail seeps sometimes. I discovered that by smelling raw fuel coming into the air vents. If I rub my finger on the spot where the connector meets the fuel rail, I'll get a tiny bit of fuel on my finger. Sometimes I'll get the fuel smell on my finger, but no wetness. The front connector seems to be fine.

 

[Merkava_4]

Originally Posted By: stower17
I wouldnt heat it too much because you will be buying a new fuel line if u crack it or compromise the plastic. I was under the impression that the whole line needs to be replaced if the connector breaks.


That's what I'm worried about; I don't know how much to heat it. I also don't know how flexible the new line in the kit is. The factory fuel line on the car makes all kinds of curves and bends, but it feels very stiff.

 

[ron350]

Merk all you need to do is replace the two #012 Viton o-rings in the connector.

The only reason to replace a end connector is if it is cracked or broken.

 

[Merkava_4]

ron350 -- How sure are you on that o-ring size ? That would be WAY too easy if that's all I had to do.

 

[The_Eric]

If ron350 is correct on sizing, I would certainly go that route. Verify by removing the o-rings and measuring. There are many websites that list dims of standard o-rings.

If not, the best way is to use a fitting press type tool. Lube the barbs and use the tool to press it into the plastic hose.

 

[Merkava_4]

The_Eric -- A fitting press type tool ? You happen to know who makes one ?

 

[ron350]

Your car uses #012 0-Viton rings for the large supply side connectors and #011 Viton o-rings for the smaller return fuel lines.
I have replaced every o-ring in the fuel system on my 96 Regal 3800II. Most auto parts stores sell these Viton o-rings listed as fuel line o-rings.

Once you have the o-rings pick up a fuel line connector just like yours and practice replacing the o-rings on the workbench first.
The only tool you will need is a pick the proper size to reach in and remove the o-rings.

If you have to replace a fuel connector use Dorman 800300.

 

[The_Jeff]

Originally Posted By: Merkava_4
Originally Posted By: eljefino
I wouldn't use a heat gun that could plausibly throw sparks (HF?)


The guy on YouTube is using a Harbor Freight heat gun. You're saying they throw sparks ?


Internet advise being what it is, I wouldn't say to throw heat on a fuel line that's still damp with gasoline.

 

[demarpaint]

I would not use a HF heat gun around gas.

 

[The_Eric]

Originally Posted By: demarpaint
I would not use a HF heat gun around gas.


Oh come on... where's your spirit of adventure?

 

[punisher]

Heat up that brass connector to.

 

[Superflop]

Yeah replace the orings lightly spray them with silicone spray when putting the new ones in

 

[Merkava_4]

I changed out the o-ring in the fuel rail connector today. Getting the old o-ring out was alot easier than getting the new one in. This is the first time I've ever had to deal with an INTERNAL o-ring. I kept wishing there was a way to grab ahold of the o-ring so that I could push and pull it into position. I'd push on one side of the o-ring and then the other side would pop up. I'd then push on that side of the o-ring and then the other side would pop up again. Very frustrating. In the end, I was somehow able to get the o-ring into its groove with a pocket screwdriver. So far no leaks. It's amazing how the only thing keeping the car from catching on fire is an 80 cent o-ring.

ron350 -- I can't thank you enough. You saved me from alotta trouble. I owe you a beer and a pizza.

 

[ron350]

I hope you replaced both o-rings in the connector the back one is the toughest.

I have several sizes of round wooden dowels to help install the o-ring.

Also have a modified stainless steel pick that has a 90 * end with a .040 end with a rounded tip. You can use this to remove the o-rings and position the plastic separator without scratching the o-rings or the plastic.

That floating plastic o-ring separator does not make installation any easier.