so i noticed in my dads driveway (gravel) i could hear some front end clunking. it wasnt very bad and it wasnt like a clanking more like a low tone dudumdduumdddum . hard to explain sounded like something was loose. well outer tie rods are newish and good, control arms is new so that covers. ball joint sway bar bushings and cntrl arm. so the only thing that hasn't been replaced is the inner tie rods and the sway bar to frame bushings which are also good. nothing has play the u joint above the steering gear box feels fine. the only thing i am not 100% on is the inner tierods. i have a hard time checking them. anyone have any ideas or know a good way to check the inner tie rods?
front end clunking
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Carefully remove their dust covers and have someone shake the steering wheel back and forth about 2" while you look at the knuckles of the inner tie rods with the help of a flashlight. This would be a good time to look for axial play in the rack & pinion at the same time. This check is best done with the car sitting on the ground, not jacked up. Good quality zip ties can be used to put the dust covers back on if they don't have reusable band clamps.
If it sounds like a "galloping horse" sound, its the struts.
What's axial play? Struts are only a couple months old as well.
Originally Posted By: chevyboy14
What's axial play?
Up & down or front to rear play on the rack shaft itself inside the rack & pinion unit. You will be able to see inside with a flashlight when the inner tie rod dust covers are pulled back.
What's axial play?
Up & down or front to rear play on the rack shaft itself inside the rack & pinion unit. You will be able to see inside with a flashlight when the inner tie rod dust covers are pulled back.
if they have play is it a big deal? i dont feel the clunking in the steering wheel. i just hear it.
Upper strut mounts?
i figured the mention of the control arm being the ball joint and all of that kind of gave it away. also the talk of rack in pinion. but yes its the 98 sl2
strut mounts are new as well to
Originally Posted By: chevyboy14
i figured the mention of the control arm being the ball joint and all of that kind of gave it away. also the talk of rack in pinion. but yes its the 98 sl2
It is extremely common for a ball joint to be a permanent part of the control arm. Every Ford F150 since 1997 has such an arm and that is just one of many examples.
i figured the mention of the control arm being the ball joint and all of that kind of gave it away. also the talk of rack in pinion. but yes its the 98 sl2
It is extremely common for a ball joint to be a permanent part of the control arm. Every Ford F150 since 1997 has such an arm and that is just one of many examples.
well my ford is a 93 . i didn't know that. i forgot to put it in but my usual questions are about the saturn so i get a little lax about mentioning it. my fault. its a better design in my opinion. i do kind of wish the clunking wasn't there. it doesn't do it over bumps or anything only on a rough gravel or dirt road. over regular pot holes and bumps nothing. feels very solid
Why are we finding out now that Chevyboy drives a Ford.
The original post should have specified make/model/year/mileage
The original post should have specified make/model/year/mileage
It's a 98 Saturn sl2 210108 miles. I forgot to put it in jeeez
Yeah, you could always check the ball joints with prying methods to check for play and movement. If you feel it in the steering wheel, look for that or the tie rods/end links at the control arm.
Otherwise, perhaps the struts aren't doing a good job under that sort of stress.
Otherwise, perhaps the struts aren't doing a good job under that sort of stress.
Old car with high miles that exhibits a noise only when driven on yours dads driveway?
If it only does it under these specific circumstances the. You have to ask is it worth investigating in depth if the cars drives well.
Also you appear to have replaced a lot of the front end components already.
This is the problem with starting to get an old, high miler back up to the condition of a newer, lower mileage car, cost.
You need to prioritise things that are needing to be done and things that would be nice if they were done.
On a car of that type and value I would certainly maintain it with regular fluid changes and decent tyres and brakes.
But any noise or annoyance that doesn't impact the way the car drives would only be tackled when it did affect the way it drove.
Though I did hear a similar kind of noise that turned out to be the top strut mount.
If it only does it under these specific circumstances the. You have to ask is it worth investigating in depth if the cars drives well.
Also you appear to have replaced a lot of the front end components already.
This is the problem with starting to get an old, high miler back up to the condition of a newer, lower mileage car, cost.
You need to prioritise things that are needing to be done and things that would be nice if they were done.
On a car of that type and value I would certainly maintain it with regular fluid changes and decent tyres and brakes.
But any noise or annoyance that doesn't impact the way the car drives would only be tackled when it did affect the way it drove.
Though I did hear a similar kind of noise that turned out to be the top strut mount.
It ended up being the torque strut mount on the driver side. It was replaced 4 months ago and is al ready shot.
Ouch, I take it was a cheap/Chinese part?
It was an anchor mount.
Thanks for the update and glad you found the problem. I've got a lot of vibration in my steering wheel, but I know the ball joints on the control arms are beat. Now, just to isolate which ones...
Still, I've got plans to do the head gasket job on this one before all of that anyway.
Still, I've got plans to do the head gasket job on this one before all of that anyway.
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