Front brakes - 2004 Mercedes ML350

[nthach]

Originally Posted By: wavinwayne
Originally Posted By: nthach
I wouldn't use DuraLast or any mass-market pad on a Benz - I'd stick to Textar, Jurid, Pagid, ATE or PBR. Mercedes also calls for a pad paste to be used, which is identical to Molykote M77 which can be had at a Honda dealer or industrial supply house.


I've never heard of any of those, so I'll take your word that they're good. Personally, I've had nothing but excellent results from Duralast pads on several vehicles, and will continue using them on all my vehicles without the slightest concern.

All those companies minus PBR are the OEM braking parts suppliers for all the European auto makers - and ATE is the OEM to Detroit as well as making inroads with the Japanese and Koreans via Nissan, Honda, Toyota and Hyundai/Kia.

PBR is a Australian firm that also makes excellent brake pads, they are also OEM on both Ford and GM's muscle cars.

 

[bdcardinal]

ATE also makes brake components for Volvo, the master on my Volvo has ATE cast into it.

 

[tom slick]

What makes a MB need specially made brakes by specific manufacturers? Why wouldn't a premium pad from a common manuf. suitable?

 

[Trav]

MB is no different than any other manufacturer of quality cars.They use different rotor materials and rotor styles based on the cars weight,speed rating,weight distribution,caliper type,etc.

Premium manufacturers follow the OEM specs when producing pad materials,fit and finish,shim type and placement and so on.
Store brands may or may not follow these guidelines,they may just use a generic compound of the OEM type.
Personally i don't see any problem using premium Bendix,Raybestos or other premium brands.

I don't think AA,AZ,O'Reilly,etc is making parts so who is making them this year or until their contract runs out?
IMO it could get a little too exciting fitting a performance car or a heavy SUV that needs to stop yesterday with questionable brakes.
Granted on pothole ridden U.S. roads with archaic speed limits things like high speed fading maybe less of a concern,but in countries where you can still get the right foot into the game excellent brakes become a priority.

 

[Vikas]

If your rotor thickness has gone below recommended thickness (HIGHLY UNLIKELY) without being cut on a lathe, you would have gone through many many sets of pads. Do not worry about the rotor thickness when you changed your first set of pads at over 70K miles. You are NOT one of the maniac driver who eats brakes for breakfast

You should have checked those slides though and re-lubed them. If you get significantly less mileage on this set of pads, then you can start more investigation.

I would also monitor the wheel temperatures for a while to make sure they are heating up evenly on both sides.

And ignore the peanut gallery; on internet people get their jollies by putting other people down.

- Vikas

 

[The Critic]

Originally Posted By: Vikas
If your rotor thickness has gone below recommended thickness (HIGHLY UNLIKELY) without being cut on a lathe, you would have gone through many many sets of pads. Do not worry about the rotor thickness when you changed your first set of pads at over 70K miles. You are NOT one of the maniac driver who eats brakes for breakfast

You should have checked those slides though and re-lubed them. If you get significantly less mileage on this set of pads, then you can start more investigation.

I would also monitor the wheel temperatures for a while to make sure they are heating up evenly on both sides.

And ignore the peanut gallery; on internet people get their jollies by putting other people down.

- Vikas


When my friend replaced the rear pads and rotors on his 2007 GTI at under 20k, the rear rotors were already below minimum thickness.

 

[Vikas]

Your friend's car must have been raced every single weekend if it needed rear pads at under 20K Seriously, you have to agree that having to change rear pads under 20K is quite unusual.

Please tell me what happens when the rotors are below minimum thickness. Would they crack, shatter in to zillion pieces (obviously take the occupants of the vehicle to their maker or just warp more easily? I guess it would be later.

- Vikas

 

[wavinwayne]

To contrast Critic's friend's experience, my 2000 GTI is still on the OEM front pads and rotors at 148k miles. Strangely enough, the rear OEM pads were shot at around 70k miles. The Duralast rear pads that I installed are still going strong, and showing minimal wear.

 

[swalve]

It's possible they adjusted the front-rear bias by putting smaller brakes on the rear, and eliminated the need for a bias valve? Or the parking brake is dragging.

 

[nhmercracer]

Hello everyone.

WooHoo.. First post!

I have used the Duralast pads on worn, but serviceable Mercedes rotors. They are a decent ceramic pad. Good bite, and MUCH less dust than the Textar pads.

You may be surprised to find stock rotors from the dealer to be cheaper than some bargain aftermarket units.

Yes if I had the E430 I would burn through pads too. )