Frantz filter

[bron32]

I have a New Holland combine with 3208 cat
engine. Could a toliet paper filter be put on
this engine? We put about 250 hrs on this engine
every harvest and then is parked for another year.

I was thinking that, rather than spend extra
money on a big unit, get the small TP filter and
change the filter every 100 hrs.

Any advice would be appreciated

Thanks
Bron32

 

[RJCorazza]

I am by no means an expert, but on large sumps I have read about running Frantz filters in parallel. I just installed a Frantz on my tractor hydraulic / transmission (10 gallons) and just used one filter, but there is a big difference in contamination produced between engine oil and hydraulic / transmission fluid. The Frantz engine oil filter on my diesel works great, but my tractor is much smaller than a combine.
I read up on the hydraulic filter specs for my tractor and it was rated 'nominal' at 60 microns, meaning 50% of 60 micron particles will be filtered. I plan on running the Frantz hydraulic filter about 2 hours every 25 operating hours for starters. It's an independent system that uses a 12v pump to get the fluid from the resevoir drain - to the filter - and back to the resevoir fill. The down side is that I can only run it while the tractor is off to prevent the hydraulic pump from cavitating and foaming the fluid.

 

[RalphPWood]

Bron32,
The little filters will work fine. YOu just have to change them more often than the big filters. Some filters that are larger than the toilet paper filters have a smaller and less effective element inside. Its a matter of keeping the oil clean and adding enough new oil to keep the additive package up. Absorbing type filters are all similar in that they absorb contaminants until they cant hold any more then the small stuff starts going on thru. Even as effective as toilet paper filters are some soot will get thru and keep building up in the oil. If you rub a little in the palm of your hand and it leaves a clean oily film and wipes off easily your soot content isnt too high. Black doesnt matter. It the oil is cloudy or grey you might have water in it. You want it to feel slick and have a good viscosity. With practice you dont need to spend money on oil analysis. You can change the filter and add a quart of oil a few times for what it costs to have the oil analyzed.

Ralph

 

[Schultz]

I read up on the hydraulic filter specs for my tractor and it was rated 'nominal' at 60 microns, meaning 50% of 60 micron particles will be filtered.

If you have a return line filter right now, all you would have to do is change to a finer rated spin on filter, then you get 100% filtration, 100% of the time. Add a differential pressure guage or switch then you'll know when to change the filter. The flow would be about the same, they just add more efa in the finer rated ones. Parker, Pall and several others make these return line spin-on's down to <1µm @99.5%, can be hard to find, usually special order, also can be expensive. A more cost effective option could be 3µm @99.5%, easier to get too. Mcmaster Carr, Surplus Center, Grainger, and others all sell these filters. If you need any help let me know.

 

[RJCorazza]

To be honest, I'm not sure what type (or more specifically where in the system) filter I have. I was not willing to mess with the system, other than to filter the resevoir independantly. The OEM spin-on hydraulic filter must be under significant pressure, as 2 winters ago I blew the seal out twice and dumped gallons of fluid before I could shut down. Turns out Kubota had a service bulletin out for a heavier filter in cold weather service (it was -10f, which is unusual for MD).
Wouldn't any spin-on filter have to meet a certain flow rate? It would seem to me the factors I will need to look into are :
1) Return type or (supply ?)
2) Pressure rating
3) Flow rate