Frankenbrew 07 IS250

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There have been all kids of talk about additive clash and oils not working to their "full potential", or whatever other things that drove people to use one oil brand and weight. There are even people that still believe that synthetic and dino can not be mixed, or you can't go back once you use a syn or something stupid like that.
The car started and ran, and didn't explode. I don't own a butt dino, so sorry, I have no results there. I do, however, have cams that make me cringe periodically, the sound is similar to a wrench being knocked around the engine. The dealer said it only backs the bolts out on the 2GR engine, the 4GR is fine, meaning it's fine until it isn't and they won't do anything about it. Why or how it is affected by the oil I don't know, but ValSyn
Fill went in in December, and came out about a month ago. 80% of city/traffic and 20% of highway. The car can idle extensively, not shy to leave it running for a half an hour or more whlie I'm in the restaraunt or store with the family. Had a few sustained high speed commutes on this one as well.

Filter came out wavy, never seen them do that before, but as always it takes a lot of stregth to tear it.

The magnet collected about as much metal as usual.


Upgrade
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This is how much came out of the catch can, did drain a little during OCI.


Thought there was varnish on the baffle, but no, just soot.



This is why I leave the drain plug stuck to the pan while draining.


This is the reason why I have to put a lot more oil in than the book says. It just keeps coming when you tip it.



This mess of oils can be only called a blend.
1qt of:
PP 0w20
Kengall GT syn 10w30
Shield 76 synblend 5w20
M1 0w40 FS
M1 TDT 5w40
Magnatec 0w20 syn
1/2 qt of Quicksilver ATV 5w40 syn
The rest was splashed in in turns until I got it to full.
PP10w30 syn
DELO 400 15w40, 10w30 dino
Magnatec 10w30 blend
VR1 20w50 dino

While the results were better than the one with PP , where the flip did the additives go lol.



Refilled with Napa 10w30, a quart of napa syn 0w20 and a quart of Delo XLE 10w30 (CJ4), another full went it.
 
Originally Posted By: oldhp
Why if you keep doing that...............that engine "might" go 200,000 miles......or more.

Yup, oil is oil.
oh, the filter

 
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I REALLY recommend you add some jack stands to your setup. I looks like you your life is 100% dependent on the seals on that floor jack.

Lots of incidents where that has dropped a car on people.
 
Some people complain and are paranoid that it alters the oil, which may perform poorer as a result. This is proof that it's fine. Stop being paranoid.
 
Originally Posted By: danez_yoda
I REALLY recommend you add some jack stands to your setup. I looks like you your life is 100% dependent on the seals on that floor jack.

Lots of incidents where that has dropped a car on people.



If it's lifted for any amount of time, then 4x12's under each wheel, this way it will not tip off the "stands" even if rear ended. I'm just reaching under, won't get crushed...much.
 
Originally Posted By: Matagonka
Some people complain and are paranoid that it alters the oil, which may perform poorer as a result. This is proof that it's fine. Stop being paranoid.


No, it isn't. It's simply a UOA that doesn't show anything unusual. We have no idea how it performed relative to a fully-formulated oil by itself. Generally, the risk comes at extremely low temperatures that the OP isn't likely to experience. That doesn't mean the risk isn't there, however all we can take away from this OCI is that there is nothing out of the ordinary in the report as a result of the blend.
 
I buy oil when it's on sale or clearance. sometimes I might have 3 bottles of Chevron, 2 bottles of Havoline, etc.
I use what I have. If all 5 quarts match that is great. If not, I don't worry about it. I also have one vehicle that uses oil so I top off with whatever is available.
 
Originally Posted By: OVERKILL
Originally Posted By: Matagonka
Some people complain and are paranoid that it alters the oil, which may perform poorer as a result. This is proof that it's fine. Stop being paranoid.


No, it isn't. It's simply a UOA that doesn't show anything unusual. We have no idea how it performed relative to a fully-formulated oil by itself. Generally, the risk comes at extremely low temperatures that the OP isn't likely to experience. That doesn't mean the risk isn't there, however all we can take away from this OCI is that there is nothing out of the ordinary in the report as a result of the blend.


Teh properly fermented stuff

As far as cold fluidity, I threw some of the mix in the freezer at -2 degrees F, came out just fine, think the coldest that car ever seen is 10F.

Originally Posted By: TheLawnRanger
What's the purpose of the Frankenbrew? Wouldn't it be easier to use one type of oil?


Dispelling myths.
 
Originally Posted By: Dyusik
As far as cold fluidity, I threw some of the mix in the freezer at -2 degrees F, came out just fine, think the coldest that car ever seen is 10F.

That's not pumpability, though, which is what I gather Overkill is getting at.
 
I understand that, but if it can free fall better than an Xw at its temp limit, I imagine it pumps at least as well.
 
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Hopefully, but do recall there are oils with pour points that are poorer than the corresponding MRV testing indicates, and some very low pour points in oils that don't have good MRV numbers.
 
Originally Posted By: Garak
Hopefully, but do recall there are oils with pour points that are poorer than the corresponding MRV testing indicates, and some very low pour points in oils that don't have good MRV numbers.


And oils that have gelled by varying the heat/cool cycle
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