Fram ultra + max life = 1 year oil change ?

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I put around 300 miles a year or less on my antique car . I'm plan on change oil and filter 1 a year . Will these 2 combo do well ?
 
Try about 3 years, minimum. Oil doesn't wear a calendar wristwatch. What sort of antique car are we talking about here? Can't be too old if it will take a modern full-flow filter.
 
Originally Posted By: Jim Allen
Try about 3 years, minimum. Oil doesn't wear a calendar wristwatch. What sort of antique car are we talking about here? Can't be too old if it will take a modern full-flow filter.


Just old 83 mustang gt 5.0 and 85 gt 5.0 both stock . Still in progress to restore. But I still drive sometime on Sunday 10-20 miles
 
Originally Posted By: MetalSlug
I put around 300 miles a year or less on my antique car . I'm plan on change oil and filter 1 a year . Will these 2 combo do well ?


Stick with the one year time interval with this low mileage. Oil over time, becomes contaminated by combustion gases that blow by the pistons, and the longer the oil sits with that contamination, the more it degrades. With a top tier oil filter you could leave the filter in for longer.
 
What sort of antique vehicle? Maxlife may not have sufficient zinc for an older motor...

Rotella T5 or T6 may be more appropriate, but without knowing what you drive, I can't say.
 
I speak from experience when I recommend three years plus and if you search for posts from dnewton3, you will find some classic Mustang examples. IIRC, his Mustang is on a 4 year OCI.

If the oil is brought up to temp for a decent period of time, most of the trouble-causing issues are baked out. The additive chemistry then takes care of what's left. Other long time interval caveats assume a decent storage situation. If it's left outside and subject to wide temperature swings, which makes it more subject to condensation, the OCI should be shorter. Ten to 15 miles every nice Sunday is generally considered enough miles to clear the oil but if anything, more time at in the warmed up state is better. Just have 20-25 miles of fun on Sunday instead of 15. ( : < )

I think the Ultra is very appropriate in this scenario... moreso than a MC FL1A. Why? First off, the older flat tappet carbureted engines naturally shed more metal. They also put more carbon into the oil. Generally speaking, the cleaner the oil, the longer it will last because the additive package does not have to work as hard. The Ultra is much more efficient than the FL1A (99% @ 20 microns vs 93 % @ 20 microns so will clean the oil better. On top of that , the synthetic media has a very high capacity. Generally, syn media can carry 50% more contaminant per square inch of media than ordinary cellulose. I don't have specs for the FL1A sized filters for MC or Fram Ultra, but if the media are generally the same size, figure the Ultra is about double the capacity. In the size I use on my Ford, the MC filter capacity is 18 grams where the Ultra is 31. The extra capacity makes sure you won't build up to much junk over a long interval and increase the chance of bypassing. Not a big worry in any case.

As for oil, I generally agree with the comments above. The Maxlife might not be the best choice but it's "OK." Were your Mustang in my hands, I would install Rotella T-5 semi-syn 10W30 and never look back. It has higher zinc levels that you engine was designed to run back in the day, so it would serve admirably. Plus, it has an admirable record in extended OCIs becaus it has a very, very strong additive package compared to the Maxlife.

I regularly use 2, 3 and 4 year intervals on my vehicles and farm equipment and have verified the intervals via used oil analysis. My farm tractors sit, sometiems for months at a time, in an unheated barn, yet at 3 and 4 years, 100-120 hours of operation, the used oil analysis are stellar. Our daily drivers are also on a "miles only" schedule. The Honda is 10K and generally works out to 2+years on time. The '05 Ford pickup has been 10K but is now 15K and is currently nearing three years. The old Ford diesel pickup is in the testing phase for a longer interval since the addition of a bypass filtration system. Previously it was 6K miles and around 2 years. Now the next OCI will be around 8.5K and at least 4 years. I sampled at 3K... ~2 years and the oil was doing great. I will probably sample again at 6K. I only put a couple thou on this truck a year, mostly at harvest time, or for fun stuff (it's an '86 F250 I've had since new so it's semi collectable and a toy as much as anything).

So, back to MetalSlug: If you can't face going past 1 year, the Ultra is redundant. It's extra capability is doing you absolutely no good for all the extra money spent.
 
Originally Posted By: KD0AXS
No problem, but forget the Fram Ultra. Just use a Motorcraft filter. IIRC, those 5.0s use the FL-1A.


I'd say its a coin flip between those two.

The Fram Ultra is a substantially better filter than the MC FL-1A IMO, but I'm not one whose a die-hard fans of the MC base-end ADBV. the Fram is probably overkill for this application. Synthetic media filters really shine in high-mileage OCIs, not high-hours OCIs.


Oh, and I'm fairly certain the 85 5.0 has a roller cam. The 83? My memory's foggy, but somewhere around 80-84 was where the 5.0 got rollerized. The Mopar 318 got rollerized in 87 or 88, the SB Chevy didn't get it in general applications until the late 90s, although high-performance SBCs got rollers much earlier.
 
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Originally Posted By: Jim Allen
I speak from experience when I recommend three years plus and if you search for posts from dnewton3, you will find some classic Mustang examples. IIRC, his Mustang is on a 4 year OCI.

Were your Mustang in my hands, I would install Rotella T-5 semi-syn 10W30 and never look back. It has higher zinc levels that you engine was designed to run back in the day, so it would serve admirably. Plus, it has an admirable record in extended OCIs becaus it has a very, very strong additive package compared to the Maxlife.

I regularly use 2, 3 and 4 year intervals on my vehicles and farm equipment and have verified the intervals via used oil analysis.


MS, Reread and heed this.^^^ Great advice right there.
 
I concur with Jim.

If you are committed to these products, then OCI every 3 or 4 years; it will be safe, despite the fears you'll internalize.

Or, of you are committed to annual OCIs, then ditch the expensive products and just run a house brand oil and typical filter; it will still be ok, I promise you.
 
Originally Posted By: Jim Allen
I speak from experience when I recommend three years plus and if you search for posts from dnewton3, you will find some classic Mustang examples. IIRC, his Mustang is on a 4 year OCI.

If the oil is brought up to temp for a decent period of time, most of the trouble-causing issues are baked out. The additive chemistry then takes care of what's left. Other long time interval caveats assume a decent storage situation. If it's left outside and subject to wide temperature swings, which makes it more subject to condensation, the OCI should be shorter. Ten to 15 miles every nice Sunday is generally considered enough miles to clear the oil but if anything, more time at in the warmed up state is better. Just have 20-25 miles of fun on Sunday instead of 15. ( : < )

I think the Ultra is very appropriate in this scenario... moreso than a MC FL1A. Why? First off, the older flat tappet carbureted engines naturally shed more metal. They also put more carbon into the oil. Generally speaking, the cleaner the oil, the longer it will last because the additive package does not have to work as hard. The Ultra is much more efficient than the FL1A (99% @ 20 microns vs 93 % @ 20 microns so will clean the oil better. On top of that , the synthetic media has a very high capacity. Generally, syn media can carry 50% more contaminant per square inch of media than ordinary cellulose. I don't have specs for the FL1A sized filters for MC or Fram Ultra, but if the media are generally the same size, figure the Ultra is about double the capacity. In the size I use on my Ford, the MC filter capacity is 18 grams where the Ultra is 31. The extra capacity makes sure you won't build up to much junk over a long interval and increase the chance of bypassing. Not a big worry in any case.

As for oil, I generally agree with the comments above. The Maxlife might not be the best choice but it's "OK." Were your Mustang in my hands, I would install Rotella T-5 semi-syn 10W30 and never look back. It has higher zinc levels that you engine was designed to run back in the day, so it would serve admirably. Plus, it has an admirable record in extended OCIs becaus it has a very, very strong additive package compared to the Maxlife.

I regularly use 2, 3 and 4 year intervals on my vehicles and farm equipment and have verified the intervals via used oil analysis. My farm tractors sit, sometiems for months at a time, in an unheated barn, yet at 3 and 4 years, 100-120 hours of operation, the used oil analysis are stellar. Our daily drivers are also on a "miles only" schedule. The Honda is 10K and generally works out to 2+years on time. The '05 Ford pickup has been 10K but is now 15K and is currently nearing three years. The old Ford diesel pickup is in the testing phase for a longer interval since the addition of a bypass filtration system. Previously it was 6K miles and around 2 years. Now the next OCI will be around 8.5K and at least 4 years. I sampled at 3K... ~2 years and the oil was doing great. I will probably sample again at 6K. I only put a couple thou on this truck a year, mostly at harvest time, or for fun stuff (it's an '86 F250 I've had since new so it's semi collectable and a toy as much as anything).

So, back to MetalSlug: If you can't face going past 1 year, the Ultra is redundant. It's extra capability is doing you absolutely no good for all the extra money spent.


You do all that with t5 ?
 
Some is T5. It's not appropriate in the case of the Honda or new Ford (though I have been using a 10W30 HDEO in there as an experiment. Most of the farm equipment has transitioned over now. Previously it was Rotella 10W30 TP or 15W40 TP.

The oil brand really isn't that important. Most oils within a certain price range and service classification are very similar in performance, despite all the brand consciousness and "brand uber alles" stuff that goes on here. The T5 is a standout because it has a viscosity more suited to cars (10W30) and also has the robust additive pack of a dual-rated CJ4/SM HDEO. Because it is a semi syn, it has good cold flow characteristics and the viscometrics are very similar to what was originally spec'ed for your car. On top of that, it's very reasonable and usually found at WalMart for about $16/gal.
 
I run conventional 10w30 Rotella TP in much of my equipment including Kubota, Scag ZTR, air-cooled power equipment and even my 1966 (289ci) Mustang. These all generally get 3 year OCIs with Wix or Purolator filters. Even my Dmax is on a multi-year OCI plan.
 
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