Fram PH16 cut open

[MrQuackers]

This filter was run for 5k miles on a 2004 GC SXT with the 3.8 liter engine. The vehicle used about a quart of oil per 1500 miles. The vehicle has 222k on the odometer, runs great. These vehicles just have a reputation for using oil.

The media looked very solid. The engine must be in good running order as I did not see much of anything. The manual says max change interval is 6k. I think severe service was 4k. The ADBV seemed quite pliable for nitrile at 5k. One oddity, the filter gasket was stuck to the engine. Always check for the gasket when you change the oil! Take your time, have a beer

This particular OCOD seems just fine other than the gasket issue.

To anyone thinking of cutting open a filter, I recommend first cutting a small section and then letting it drain for a spell. You would be surprised how much oil is hiding in the filter. Less mess! Anyway here are some pictures, sorry not the best quality.

YES I USED A HACKSAW

 

[ZeeOSix]

Wonder what the media area is? ... seems kind of short on media. Just need the number of pleats, pleat depth and pleat length is all you need to calculate the area.

 

[Jimmy9190]

Thanks for taking the time to post the pics! It really does not look bad at all. The PH16 is the Fram filter for my truck. I think it has larger inlet holes than my beloved Puro Classic. I actually kind of like the larger inlet holes, it makes me believe the flow might be better, or at least stronger.

Have you noticed any differences between the Fram and any other brand of filter, like more or less start-up noise, more or less oil pressure at idle and/or highway speeds or any other differences?

 

[MrQuackers]

This vehicle belongs to my brother, so I am not sure. I'll inquire.

 

[ZeeOSix]

Originally Posted By: Jimmy9190
I think it has larger inlet holes than my beloved Puro Classic. I actually kind of like the larger inlet holes, it makes me believe the flow might be better, or at least stronger.


Add up the area of the base inlet holes and compare to the area of the hole in the center of the mounting tube for the oil filter ... they will be about the same area. Seeing bigger and/or more holes in the base is a "physiological feel good" thing ... it won't help the flow rate, delta-p, etc ... well, maybe at redline when the PD pump is in pressure relief.

 

[Jimmy9190]

Originally Posted By: ZeeOSix
Originally Posted By: Jimmy9190
I think it has larger inlet holes than my beloved Puro Classic. I actually kind of like the larger inlet holes, it makes me believe the flow might be better, or at least stronger.


Add up the area of the base inlet holes and compare to the area of the hole in the center of the mounting tube for the oil filter ... they will be about the same area. Seeing bigger and/or more holes in the base is a "physiological feel good" thing ... it won't help the flow rate, delta-p, etc ... well, maybe at redline when the PD pump is in pressure relief.

Well it still does not look bad at all for a Fram. I have actually been thinking a lot lately about how people say online there are millions of vehicles out on the road every day with Fram oil filters and their engines have not blown up. There must be some truth in that. I also wonder why the Fram is 50 cents more than a Puro Classic at Walmart. Does Fram and/or WM think the Fram is that much better?

 

[gregk24]

Originally Posted By: Jimmy9190
Originally Posted By: ZeeOSix
Originally Posted By: Jimmy9190
I think it has larger inlet holes than my beloved Puro Classic. I actually kind of like the larger inlet holes, it makes me believe the flow might be better, or at least stronger.


Add up the area of the base inlet holes and compare to the area of the hole in the center of the mounting tube for the oil filter ... they will be about the same area. Seeing bigger and/or more holes in the base is a "physiological feel good" thing ... it won't help the flow rate, delta-p, etc ... well, maybe at redline when the PD pump is in pressure relief.

Well it still does not look bad at all for a Fram. I have actually been thinking a lot lately about how people say online there are millions of vehicles out on the road every day with Fram oil filters and their engines have not blown up. There must be some truth in that. I also wonder why the Fram is 50 cents more than a Puro Classic at Walmart. Does Fram and/or WM think the Fram is that much better?


Does not look bad for a FRAM? Why does everyone think FRAM's are so bad? Either way it looks like the filter did what it was supposed to do.

 

[y_p_w]

Originally Posted By: gregk24
Originally Posted By: Jimmy9190
Originally Posted By: ZeeOSix
Originally Posted By: Jimmy9190
I think it has larger inlet holes than my beloved Puro Classic. I actually kind of like the larger inlet holes, it makes me believe the flow might be better, or at least stronger.


Add up the area of the base inlet holes and compare to the area of the hole in the center of the mounting tube for the oil filter ... they will be about the same area. Seeing bigger and/or more holes in the base is a "physiological feel good" thing ... it won't help the flow rate, delta-p, etc ... well, maybe at redline when the PD pump is in pressure relief.

Well it still does not look bad at all for a Fram. I have actually been thinking a lot lately about how people say online there are millions of vehicles out on the road every day with Fram oil filters and their engines have not blown up. There must be some truth in that. I also wonder why the Fram is 50 cents more than a Puro Classic at Walmart. Does Fram and/or WM think the Fram is that much better?


Does not look bad for a FRAM? Why does everyone think FRAM's are so bad? Either way it looks like the filter did what it was supposed to do.

Fiber endcaps (probably overblown). Not as much media area. A hard plastic bypass without any positive sealing (competitors use rubber gaskets and metal mechanisms). A leaf spring instead of a coil spring. Really thin filter cans. Thin baseplates.

Maybe these are biases of what we can see and feel, but you asked.

 

[gregk24]

Yes I did ask...but I think FRAM filter issues are overblown, Ive seen more Purolator media tears on here then Fram failures of ANY kind.

 

[Donald]

You need to join the crowd and get the filter cutter tool for $50 - $60.

 

[ZeeOSix]

Originally Posted By: y_p_w

A hard plastic bypass without any positive sealing (competitors use rubber gaskets and metal mechanisms).


The bypass valve is high temp nylon ... nothing really wrong with the design. What filter's use rubber gaskets and metal mechanisms? I haven't seen any.

 

[y_p_w]

Originally Posted By: ZeeOSix
Originally Posted By: y_p_w

A hard plastic bypass without any positive sealing (competitors use rubber gaskets and metal mechanisms).


The bypass valve is high temp nylon ... nothing really wrong with the design. What filter's use rubber gaskets and metal mechanisms? I haven't seen any.

I thought most of the Japanese OEM filters have these little spring mechanism that you can see on the inside. I also remember cutting open an old AC PF1127. Here's a picture of a Filtech (owned by Toyo Roki) bypass next to a Fram bypass:

And a Subaru OEM filter from Tokyo Roki:

 

[antiqueshell]

Originally Posted By: gregk24


Does not look bad for a FRAM? Why does everyone think FRAM's are so bad? Either way it looks like the filter did what it was supposed to do.


Not necessarily bad as much as a poor value, and yes quite a few of us have had bad experiences with Fram, myself included. First time I ever used a Fram it set off the oil pressure warning lamp in my VW Golf, and yes it was the correct part number for my model.
I've used numerous other brands even cheap ones and no other has ever done that.

 

[ziggy]

Ive had 3 instances, where a fram orange can set off my oil pressure lights! on 3 different cars, immediatly after an oil change i did. Ona 85 isuzu hatchbakc, that was around 1995. A 95 neon, i tried a fram one colish november evening time, immedialty, the oil pressure light came on, put a bosh? 3614 equivelent on, ligth went off and never came back on. and on a 91 subaru wagon, early 90's.
i was looking at frams few hours ago, at my local walmart..now have a 98 toyotoa corolla. just too look. they had motorcrafts their a while back, never noticed. they got rid of them. now they have stp, mobil 1, K&N, bosh, fram, and fram tough guards. they had ac delcos, got rid of all them too.

 

[KCJeep]

No surprises there, held up fine, typical PH16 lack of media. Not sure why they do that but they are consistent about it.

As always, thanks for cutting and posting!