Run it for a single duration and test it. Simple enough. The motor and associated emissions controls very likely won't experience any detrimental effects.
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FRAM oil is now available @AAP
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Grades are a relatively imprecise method of determining “protection”, the HT/HS value is far more representative of what happens inside of the engine. A manufacturer approval like we are discussing requires an HT/HS value as part of the approval which results in one or more grades that are printed on the label. They do not require a grade as part of the performance specifications. They allow grades for the finished product but they do not specify them, this is because the grade designation does not properly represent the performance of the oil and the manufacturer knows that. The grade is better thought of as a marketing tool whereas the HT/HS is an engineering description. It would actually be better if an oil was labeled with the HT/HS than the SAE grade designation.
It's kind of like how for many years the pour point of the oil was used as a representative value for the performance of the oil at low temperatures. But later on it was discovered that there was a flaw in that thinking and it resulted in a revision to SAE J300. Today the winter rating of the oil is a better representation of the real-word behavior of how oil acts at low temperatures because of several key ASTM tests.
You say you're happy to learn, well here is an opportunity.
It's kind of like how for many years the pour point of the oil was used as a representative value for the performance of the oil at low temperatures. But later on it was discovered that there was a flaw in that thinking and it resulted in a revision to SAE J300. Today the winter rating of the oil is a better representation of the real-word behavior of how oil acts at low temperatures because of several key ASTM tests.
You say you're happy to learn, well here is an opportunity.
How does a consumer test an oil to determine it meets or does not meet the requirements of a Mercedes-Benz approval?
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You don't, an oil is either approved or not. (I know this was a trick question) It's like looking at an SDS for oils to see which one is "better"
What? Millions of $$ of product development and rigid documented tests can't be validated by a 7oz of oil thrown into the mail and a $30 test?
Jesus. This is like fretting about who makes the best burger, but never trying any. Pick one and try it. Use whatever "tools" are at your disposal. Weigh the pros and cons. But is it impossible to just move on? It's motor oil, not a mission to the outer planets.
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They really need to develop an approval process for oils. I am tired of having to send my oil in for analysis to see if it meets the required spec
Too many tasks, too little time; our R&D guys are off working on making the oil more visible on the dipstick
You were the one who said run it and test it. I just wanted to know how you test it and what you look for.
I can only assume some may be searching for unicorns and rainbows.
CleanSump
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You're overthinking it. Castrol and Pennzoil 229.51 are the least expensive on the Bevo list when purchased from Walmart; $22 to $25 for a 5 qt jug. If you actually go check the specs, the difference in viscosity and HTHS between the 229.51 30 weights and 40 weights is less than a sneeze. The 40 only gives you some decimal points. Doesn't make me sleep less to use 30 weight.
Almost every Sprinter and Bluetec car owner knows the low ash of less than 0.8 spec is to protect the DPF. The DPF is small on the Mercedes OM642. That leads to clogging sooner 'cause it can only hold so much ash. Some people don't read their owner's manuals though.
We're on BITOG because we love to make it hard and nitpick over decimal points when in real life we can't even measure the difference.
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