fork oil

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I've heard in some cases ATF is just as good.

This will be for my SV650. I know nothing of this so please drop me a crash course. I have a naked bike so taking the forks off is cake. I figure i need a little over a quart/liter, so maybe 2 bottles is good. No idea on brand or wt. I seen ATF and/or 20wt fork oil thrown out a lot. Is there better brands and just average but good stuff as well. Average price for a bottle?

Since i only need to do this every couple years i'll spring for higher end stuff, as long as its not like $40/bottle
 
A few posts down... this thread even has the same subject.
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https://bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=2927100#Post2927100
 
I put Mobil 1 ATF in my 400cc Honda a year ago, seems to be fine. The Honda repair manual (in Portuguese) just says to use ATF. I wish I would have changed it sooner, the original fluid was full of metallic material, almost like chrome that had flaked. It wouldn't surprise me if most bikes come with ATF as factory fill.

Side note: I used a metal ruler to measure the oil level from the top of the opening to the top of the fluid, adhering to the specification given in the Honda manual. The alternate method given, measuring the fluid by milliliters, wasn't useful not knowing how much old fluid was trapped inside. Getting the exact same amount of oil in both shocks is probably more important than any other detail. Your operator's manual should give the quantity of oil required, mine took around a quart and a quarter between the two shocks.
 
It is most important to note the oil level, as the air column in the fork is an important tuning parameter. Disregard the volume of oil required to arrive at the oil level desired.

Do you want to change the damping characteristics of the forks from as they are now?
 
Wang, any thoughts on methods for determining ideal oil level? My bike has a specified capacity per fork but not level. Is it best to just road test for feel and measure the levewhen you're happy?
 
Yeah man, ride it with the recommended volume and determine what you want from it. The air column in the fork acts like a progressive spring. Changing the fork oil level will make more of a difference further into the stroke, adding oil will add "progressivity". These are small differences in level here, like 3-5 mm at a time. I'm no suspension guru by any stretch, but this is a legit tuning parameter that I've fooled with myself.
 
Some forks have a tiny drain bolt at the bottom and by removing it you can pump out the old oil and then refil with correct amount.
 
Check the SV forums for the correct fork oil viscosity. Many times the Japanese bikes use Showa SS-8 (labeled Suzuki SS-8 or whatever brand name) which is a 10 wt. of about 36 centistokes viscosity at 40°C. Dexron-III ATF is about 35 cSt, close enough.

Your SV650 has simple damper rod forks, the bolt head you'll see up inside the axle hole is the bolt that holds the damper rod in place. It would be easier to dump out the old oil by removing the fork, draining it, pump more fluid out. If really gunky, put some solvent (I use paint thinner), pump, drain & pump, rinse with any thin cheap hydraulic oil (I use hydraulic jack oil), drain & pump, then refill to the proper level with your choice of fork oil (pump to remove air when filling).
 
Originally Posted By: Ken2
Check the SV forums for the correct fork oil viscosity. Many times the Japanese bikes use Showa SS-8 (labeled Suzuki SS-8 or whatever brand name) which is a 10 wt. of about 36 centistokes viscosity at 40°C. Dexron-III ATF is about 35 cSt, close enough.


+1. There's a lot of info on SVRider.com. Many SV riders also upgrade the fork springs at the same time, unless they actually do weigh 140 lbs...
 
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