Ford F150 3.5 Ecoboost cam phasers to fix now or later

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May 25, 2003
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720
Location
Quebec Canada
My truck started to make 2 days ago the awfull cold start up noise well documented on various board. Ok that happen only once but hey i dont believe in magic...(2014 60000 miles on the truck ) so im expecting to hear it again but how often ??

I live in Montreal Canada french speaking guy so bear with me , I am spending the winter in Mission Texas this year ....

My dilemma is that he will cost me an additional 35% due to the money exchange and knowing that the job is around 3000 USD you can make the calculation like me ,so I wonder if I can wait for my trip back home to get it fix or if I risk to ruin the engine ? its 3000.00 at home in Canadian or 1000 more here with the exchange

The truck isn't making the noise all the time not everyday

I heard it only once so far , I can use the pre-oil starting method for the next few months to limit the slapping at cold start up, and I for now have no code logged on the truck ...

So what would you do.....

and I know its a long shot but anyone know Spike ford in Mission tx ? They would probably have my business if I can make up my mind ,,,

Always use Pennzoil Platinum 5w30 and Motorcraft flter and or Fram ultra ... thats what I have now on the truck , oil changed at 1 year and or when required by the oil life monitor , a few oil analysis showed that the oil was serviceable when tested even up to 14000 km.

So what would you do ... fix or wait .... with a code I would not hesitate a second to have it fixed, that would show me a point where my timing chains are stretched ... but without a code ??

Im pulling a 7500 lbs travel trailer if that matter
 
Fix it in Canada. UOA and OLM aren't something to trust for what is going on inside the engine. No blind trust here.

My 2nd recommendation is to get the oil and filter changed now. Use a 0w40 and a WixXP, Napa Platinum, or Purolator Boss. And then, just keep driving. When it becomes a tinnitus issue, then have it fixed back home.
 
I had the Gen2 version of that engine (2018 F-150) and it needed the front end work at around 25K. I would suggest you stop using PP and instead use a thicker oil like PUP. The PP is really thin for the grade and these engines apparently suffer from oil dilution that further thins. Had I known about this issue, I would have used PUP and would have done a shorter OCI at 5K instead of 7K. I would have also primed the engine before starting as you mention to help get oil to that area. You can find more about the dilution if you just search Ecoboost and dilution.
 
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Please post a follow up to your trip when you get to TX. What is it about a DOHC V engine is an improvement over a far simpler and hardier OHV? design. Please school me. :cool:
 
Please post a follow up to your trip when you get to TX. What is it about a DOHC V engine is an improvement over a far simpler and hardier OHV? design. Please school me. :cool:
I am in Texas now... but ... Im not sure if you are responding to the proper thread ? No ones talks about DOVC versus OHV ??
 
I had the Gen2 version of that engine (2018 F-150) and it needed the front end work at around 25K. I would suggest you stop using PP and instead use a thicker oil like PUP. The PP is really thin for the grade and these engines apparently suffer from oil dilution that further thins. Had I known about this issue, I would have used PUP and would have done a shorter OCI at 5K instead of 7K. I would have also primed the engine before starting as you mention to help get oil to that area. You can find more about the dilution if you just search Ecoboost and dilution.
the engine front end at 25 K, on a 2018 ??? wow ... that sucks even if its covered by the warranty .... hummmm ..... looks like the 3.5 is not so good after all, especially if they could not fixed this ongoing problem ...
 
My son has a 2020 Explorer with the same issue. His vehicle has 75K miles on it. Rattles sometimes on startup. Always used the proper viscosity Valvoline synthetic oil at 6-7K mile oci. The local Ford shop is going to warrantee it because he bought the extended protection when they sold him the vehicle. Just waiting on parts now.

This video might help you decide. This guy is a very experience Ford tech.

 
I've mentioned how I would stay away from eco-boost engines. But others here say they are great. This mechanic in the video and other videos has shown me many problems with these engines. Imagine buying one used with no warranty.
 
You may just have an oil filter that allows some drain back. It happened to us on our 2016 Expedition. It would only rattle when parked for a few days, and it went away on the next oil change.
 
when you have it done make sure you have the updated cam phasers installed. they have updated the design.
 
Fix it in Canada. UOA and OLM aren't something to trust for what is going on inside the engine. No blind trust here.

My 2nd recommendation is to get the oil and filter changed now. Use a 0w40 and a WixXP, Napa Platinum, or Purolator Boss. And then, just keep driving. When it becomes a tinnitus issue, then have it fixed back home.
I would do as Greasymechanic suggests although I can't speak to the filters.
 
Please post a follow up to your trip when you get to TX. What is it about a DOHC V engine is an improvement over a far simpler and hardier OHV? design. Please school me. :cool:
Power and efficiency is the advantage. It’s not being over head cam or 4 valve per cylinder that is the issue. It’s the variable cam timing system.

Ford’s old 3.0 DOHC would run forever without any engine issues, just oil leaks. Very similar to GMs 4.3. They’d run forever but you’d usually know where it was parked overnight 🤣
 
Same engine in my 2016. Same mileage (98k kms). Always used Edge 0w40 and always an FL500s Filter since new.

I would suggest an oil change with the FL500s filter and heavier oil. If you are working that engine with a 7500lb trailer a thin 5w30 isn't the answer. Do that and you may never hear it rattle again.
 
Filters I listed have working ADBV's that worked on my engines along with local availability. I can't say the same for other models within the brand, or other brands, or other engines. Also, a synth media flows the best to help get oil where it needs to go, whether cold/hot, loaded with debris from excessive usage, or when there is moisture that soaked into and expands cellulose into a brick wall. And, local availability of Amsoil/RoyalPurple filters are an issue for some. Listed filters could usually be found or ordered thru the big name autopart stores in an major city.

Fram is in some state of flux... never know if you're gonna get wirebacked synth media or synth over cellulose on their higher end filters, or whether it'll have a silicone ADBV or not on their lesser filters, or metal or fiber endcaps.... or whatever their management are doing with their products. So, I can't blindly recommend Fram anymore.


Local autopart stores in Texas:

And, since some engines suffer from consumption, make sure you keep the oil level full. If I had a penny for every owner that came in with an engine problem... that was only an changing interval or oil level problem, I'd spend more time at the wishing fountain, wishing for owners to take care of their vehicles better.

I remember when the bean counters discontinued the 'real filter' and gave the egoboost the Fl500s.... good enough for yearly OLM changes is for you to decide. What it was engineered for vs what you get now .... trust the automakers too much.

fl500svsfl2055.jpg


fl2055vsall.jpg


And, here is MH(parent company to various filter brands) take on synth vs cellulose media, since OP is running the OLM/yearly interval, in a cold climate with possibly more moisture build up, where media flow and filtration flow could be compromised, waiting for oil flow/psi to deal with the clatter:




synth medai new used vs paper new used.jpg


synth vs paper medai flow restriction.jpg

wetoilfiltervsdry.jpg
 
Filters I listed have working ADBV's that worked on my engines along with local availability. I can't say the same for other models within the brand, or other brands, or other engines. Also, a synth media flows the best to help get oil where it needs to go, whether cold/hot, loaded with debris from excessive usage, or when there is moisture that soaked into and expands cellulose into a brick wall. And, local availability of Amsoil/RoyalPurple filters are an issue for some. Listed filters could usually be found or ordered thru the big name autopart stores in an major city.

Fram is in some state of flux... never know if you're gonna get wirebacked synth media or synth over cellulose on their higher end filters, or whether it'll have a silicone ADBV or not on their lesser filters, or metal or fiber endcaps.... or whatever their management are doing with their products. So, I can't blindly recommend Fram anymore.


Local autopart stores in Texas:

And, since some engines suffer from consumption, make sure you keep the oil level full. If I had a penny for every owner that came in with an engine problem... that was only an changing interval or oil level problem, I'd spend more time at the wishing fountain, wishing for owners to take care of their vehicles better.

I remember when the bean counters discontinued the 'real filter' and gave the egoboost the Fl500s.... good enough for yearly OLM changes is for you to decide. What it was engineered for vs what you get now .... trust the automakers too much.

View attachment 135343

View attachment 135344

And, here is MH(parent company to various filter brands) take on synth vs cellulose media, since OP is running the OLM/yearly interval, in a cold climate with possibly more moisture build up, where media flow and filtration flow could be compromised, waiting for oil flow/psi to deal with the clatter:




View attachment 135345

View attachment 135348
View attachment 135349
FL500S not good enough ?
Just curious the Wix is 3 times the price of the Motorcraft :) I agree with you with Fram that was my last one , I like to know what I am buying
 
Yes, troubleshooting is a big expense. So, you change the oil/filter, pay a little too much for the Boss/XP/Platinum, and for the jugs/quarts of Mobil1 0w40, or the Castrol/Pennzoil/Valvoline if you can find them. Or, you buy them up in Canada before your Mission to Texas and change the oil out early and monitor the frequency of startup clatters.

DIY troubleshooting is cheaper than the repair and what a shop charges for hourly labor. Its just a simple add-on cost for your normal maintenance interval or possibly 'early' change out.

Fl500s is good enough for the manufacturer warranty. And, I'd rather have an FL2055 if it was available(long ago discontinued by the bean counters). The pictures are simply to fire up the brain cells. Quit trusting the OLM and the automaker. They aren't looking out for you or your engine!

Here is a great 0w-40 that you might be able to get at a fair price before your trip.

Not sure if there are any full synthetic oil filter manufacturers in Canada. So, you have limited choices for troubleshooting. Pay up!

Or, get the phasers replaced now, and every 60k miles, while you save so much money using Fl500s and Pennzoil with that yearly/OLM based intervals.
 
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