Not ford related but back when i had the Toyota 3.4L. You could take the thermostat and rotated it 180 degrees. There's a jiggle valve on the thermostat. It would drop operating temps between 7-8 degrees. They called it the jiggle valve mod.
Ford EcoBoost 170 degree thermostat Reische Performance
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Originally Posted by ARB1977
You could take the thermostat and rotated it 180 degrees... They called it the jiggle valve mod.
That makes absolutely no sense. The jiggle valve is to let the air bubble out of the engine while you're filling the system. So it should be at the top in designs where the thermostat sits on edge vertically. Once full and running, any water that goes through the jiggle valve would be the same regardless of position.
You could take the thermostat and rotated it 180 degrees... They called it the jiggle valve mod.
That makes absolutely no sense. The jiggle valve is to let the air bubble out of the engine while you're filling the system. So it should be at the top in designs where the thermostat sits on edge vertically. Once full and running, any water that goes through the jiggle valve would be the same regardless of position.
Originally Posted by mk378
Originally Posted by ARB1977
You could take the thermostat and rotated it 180 degrees... They called it the jiggle valve mod.
That makes absolutely no sense. The jiggle valve is to let the air bubble out of the engine while you're filling the system. So it should be at the top in designs where the thermostat sits on edge vertically. Once full and running, any water that goes through the jiggle valve would be the same regardless of position.
On the Toyota 3.4L they came installed from the factory with the valve at the bottom even though it says to install it at the top.Yes I did a OBD check before and after and saw a 6-8 degree drop.
Originally Posted by ARB1977
You could take the thermostat and rotated it 180 degrees... They called it the jiggle valve mod.
That makes absolutely no sense. The jiggle valve is to let the air bubble out of the engine while you're filling the system. So it should be at the top in designs where the thermostat sits on edge vertically. Once full and running, any water that goes through the jiggle valve would be the same regardless of position.
On the Toyota 3.4L they came installed from the factory with the valve at the bottom even though it says to install it at the top.Yes I did a OBD check before and after and saw a 6-8 degree drop.
This is true. The only exact temperature the Navigator shows is the transmission temp...The actual coolant temp is a digital gauge with no.exact reading. I have mobile forscan and a wireless plug.
The active shutters are for fuel economy. I read it might have something to do wih the CAC but I think its mainly to squeeze out every bit of mpg.
Will update thread in the future.
The active shutters are for fuel economy. I read it might have something to do wih the CAC but I think its mainly to squeeze out every bit of mpg.
Will update thread in the future.
Been a while since I updated this thread. This is the highest temperature hit so far. Most of the time stays under 200. The owners manual says that is the transmission fluid temperature.
The conditions were the following:
- 94 degrees outside
- Stop and go traffic in Hoboken NJ
- Radiator grille slats disconnected and open all the time
- 170 degree thermometer installed
Usually its difficult to get it over 200 with this setup but today was the hottest day so far.
Before these mods under same conditions it would hit 230!
The conditions were the following:
- 94 degrees outside
- Stop and go traffic in Hoboken NJ
- Radiator grille slats disconnected and open all the time
- 170 degree thermometer installed
Usually its difficult to get it over 200 with this setup but today was the hottest day so far.
Before these mods under same conditions it would hit 230!
No you don't. All you have to do is put it in Engineering Mode. Although it's actually an inferred coolant temp. It actually only has a Cylinder Head Temp Sensor and a lookup table for the Inferred Coolant Temp. Trans Temp is also in there.
So far the experiment with the 170 degree thermostat and Active Grill shutters disconnected worked very well. When the Active Grill shutters are connected and the computer closes them then the temperature seems to reach as high as 217 degrees. I have no idea why or when the shutters close. Someone said the shutters open when the AC is on but that is not my observation. My observation is they seem to close at random whenever they want to but when I put the AC on it obviously doesnt open them.
However, it worked too well and while I didnt do exacting MPG measuring my observation was my fuel economy took a hit like the engine was in continual warmup mode. When the shutters were connected the temperature rose a bit and the mpg got better.
So I have ordered a 180 degree thermostat and will install that one and disconnect the shutters to see if that has any difference. I noted with the shutters disconnected and the 170 degree installed the vehicle temperature operating range seemed to be 170-190 and it seemed almost impossible to push over 200. The stock cooling system is actually quite good but when the shutters are closed the temperature will climb.
If that doesnt improve the gas mileage by raising the temperature then I will simply intall the stock 195 degree thermostat and leave the shutters open.
Take note...if you race, live in Arizona where the temperature gets to 120+ degrees or tow heavy the 170 degree thermostat and disconnecting the shutters is a MUST. However, for what Im using the vehicle for I think I will go with the 180 and will let everyone know how it goes...might have to reinstall the 195..
Photos are of 180 degree thermostat. I always order thermostats from the dealer because I want to be 100% sure Im not getting a fraudulent copy of the thermostat. There are lots of copies everything which look like the original, but dont work like the original.
However, it worked too well and while I didnt do exacting MPG measuring my observation was my fuel economy took a hit like the engine was in continual warmup mode. When the shutters were connected the temperature rose a bit and the mpg got better.
So I have ordered a 180 degree thermostat and will install that one and disconnect the shutters to see if that has any difference. I noted with the shutters disconnected and the 170 degree installed the vehicle temperature operating range seemed to be 170-190 and it seemed almost impossible to push over 200. The stock cooling system is actually quite good but when the shutters are closed the temperature will climb.
If that doesnt improve the gas mileage by raising the temperature then I will simply intall the stock 195 degree thermostat and leave the shutters open.
Take note...if you race, live in Arizona where the temperature gets to 120+ degrees or tow heavy the 170 degree thermostat and disconnecting the shutters is a MUST. However, for what Im using the vehicle for I think I will go with the 180 and will let everyone know how it goes...might have to reinstall the 195..
Photos are of 180 degree thermostat. I always order thermostats from the dealer because I want to be 100% sure Im not getting a fraudulent copy of the thermostat. There are lots of copies everything which look like the original, but dont work like the original.
This 170 degree thermostat with active grille shutters worked too well bringing temperatures down to the point where the fuel economy was horrible. Re-enabling the shutters and again I had temperature spikes to 220 degrees.
The 180 degree thermostat with active grille shutters disabled was perfect. No temperature spikes. Temperatures seemed to range from 188 to 201 degrees. Just hot enough so the engine isnt in warmup mode zapping fuel efficiency but not hot to the point where reliability is effected.
The stock setup I saw temps climb to 225 degrees. Ive always been told temps over 200 degrees seriously degrade atf and severely effect trans life...and my first 10R80 lasted 70000 miles...thus my interest in this modification.
The 170 degree thermostat with shutters disabled is great for track racing, heavy towing and outside temps over 90 degrees like in Arizona. The 180 degree is ideal for regular driving. The stock setup is good for colder climates like Canada. For someone like myself this thermostat is ideal. Keep in mind 180 degree thermostat/no shutters was the original setup on the initial F150 Ecoboosts but in later models they went with 195 degree thermostat/shutters.
Above picture is the 180 degree thermostat.