Ford Contour surge then stall, then working ok.

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kargo27

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Ft Worth, TX
My infamous 2000 Ford Contour is at it again.

This time as I was on a 3 hr. drive back from a business trip, an 18 wheeler had a rear tire blowout and I swerved right and left to miss the big chunks of re-tread. I thought that I heard a small piece or two hit the undercarriage. About 1/4 mile later, the car starts surge, like it's running out of gas. I pull over and look underneath.

I see what looks like an o2 sensor wiring plug, still connected like it's supposed to be, but hanging below the chassis. Noting that it's not disconnected, I get back in and drive on.

For a while, the surging back and forth doesn't happen.

Then I get on the interstate from some state highways and as I get to around 75 mph it starts to surge again.

I pull over and check the tranny fluid. It looked to be about a quart low so I put in a quart of ATF. I get back on the road and I'm getting the surging again but it doesn't happen immediately. It's like it happens after about 10 minutes or so of high speed driving.

At one point it got so bad, I thought it had to be the fuel pump. The car was losing power and no matter how far I pushed the accelerator, it wouldn't pick up speed. Eventually the check engine light came on and it died. I waited on the shoulder and called AAA. AAA is a must when owning a Ford Contour. It's even issued as a standard equipment by the dealer.

So after about 15 minutes I decide to try to start it. It starts fine like nothing's wrong. I then drive the 20 miles back to my house.

We went out of town for T-Giving so yesterday when we got back, I disconnected the battery to reset the check engine light.

I drive it around today and no problem. No check engine light, no surge/stall/etc.

So, I'm wondering if when I swerved back and forth to miss those tire chunks if gas somehow got up into the gas cap and caused it to quit venting.

I should have taken it down to autozone to see what the codes were. If it happens again, I will.

What's your guess?
 
That O2 wire may be connected to the sensor, but it may have internal opens if it was yanked on, or it may be pulled out of it's connector upstream.
Possibly a fuel line was mashed down and constricted.
 
Why don't you get the codes scanned instead of disconnecting the battery to reset the light?

The code may be a valuable clue as to what the cause of the problem is.
 
Incidentally I don't think an O2 sensor problem or disconnection would cause problems like this. I would guess maybe a clogged fuel filter. It's also possible that the catalyst got damaged and blocked the exhaust...did you hear any funny rattling noises while this was going on?
 
I would give this car a thorough look before you drive again. next time check engine light comes on, get them read asap. hardly ever a check engine light will stay off
 
I had the fuel filter changed about two weeks ago so I don't think it's that (but good guess).

I think that if there is a real problem and not a faulty gas cap, then the check engine light will come on again.

I was going to trade the car in at the local Ford dealer and that's why I reset the light. I don't know, maybe the codes stay in there until they use that computer tool to really reset it.

Tomorrow I'll be using it for work so we'll see if it happens again.

I would almost bet my bottom dollar that it was some kind of venting issue but we'll see.
 
Originally Posted By: kargo27

I was going to trade the car in at the local Ford dealer and that's why I reset the light. I don't know, maybe the codes stay in there until they use that computer tool to really reset it.


The codes won't stay in there but it will show that not all of the "readyness tests" have completed, if they were so inclined to check. The readyness tests are automated diagnostic tests which run as you drive that car that all have to complete before the system can be considered to have no problems.

This is why simply resetting the light doesn't work for passing the emissions checks where they scan your car for codes. As soon as they see that the readyness tests have not completed they'll tell you to come back when they are. Guess what will happen when they complete and there's still a problem?

That light will be right back on.
 
Originally Posted By: brianl703
Originally Posted By: kargo27

I was going to trade the car in at the local Ford dealer and that's why I reset the light. I don't know, maybe the codes stay in there until they use that computer tool to really reset it.


The codes won't stay in there but it will show that not all of the "readyness tests" have completed, if they were so inclined to check. The readyness tests are automated diagnostic tests which run as you drive that car that all have to complete before the system can be considered to have no problems.

This is why simply resetting the light doesn't work for passing the emissions checks where they scan your car for codes. As soon as they see that the readyness tests have not completed they'll tell you to come back when they are. Guess what will happen when they complete and there's still a problem?

That light will be right back on.


Ah, very good, thank you for the info.

Well, so far so good. I drove it about 75 miles today and no trouble with the check engine light coming on.

I jacked it up and took a look underneath at the lines. A plastic bracket holding the brake and fuel lines was cracked but no damage to the lines themselves. No damage to the lines at all.

I really think it was a poorly venting gas cap (or maybe water in the gas). I did add a bottle of water removal stuff.

Another thing I remembered today was that the event started to happen about 5-10 miles after I'd filled up with gas at a small town gas station.

I'll keep monitoring it. I'll have a 100 mile trip tomorrow.

Here's another issue. The A/C blower fan doesn't always come blow when it's on. I have to bang on the dash to get it going. Fiddling with the fan switch or on/off switch doesn't help. Only a blow to the dash gets it going. It's getting progressively worse. Sometimes I don't have to hit the dash, it will start by itself. Other times a quick strike or two must be made to get it going. Once the fan is running, it keeps going without issue.
 
Originally Posted By: brianl703
I'd check the blower motor resistor. Also check the connection to the switch for signs of overheating or bad connection.


Thanks Brian,

Would the blower motor resistor most likely be in the fuse box panel?

I'll check the connection to the switch as well, thank you.
 
Usually the blower motor resistor is in the blower motor housing. If you check under the dash on the passenger side you should see it on the bottom of the large plastic case (blower motor housing) but you may need to remove any padding or insulation (usually held in with some plastic clips) that may be installed under it. It'll have a few heavy-gauge wires connected to it. These connections sometimes overheat and make intermittent connections.
 
Brian, you're a big help. I found the blower motor and it was surprisingly easy to remove.

I also found that when I tap on the motor itself it will start. So I'm wondering if the motor itself is bad?

I pulled it out and it's sitting next to me.

Any idea where I can buy one online?

Thx,
Karl
 
Originally Posted By: kargo27
So I'm wondering if the motor itself is bad?


It spins ok and the bearings don't sound worn but there does seem to be a little drag.
 
It's the 2.5L.

Man, you're lucky and your car is beautiful!

This is my wife's old car, it has 146,000 miles. The engine and tranny are fantastic, no problems. I use it for work, I drive about 35k miles/year.

It's been through 3 fuel pumps (someone might have vandalized the car by putting something in gas tank), 6 aftermarket alternators (not realizing that they were inferior quality the last one I put in was a Motocraft), new power steering pump, new motor mounts, new starter, exhaust sytem replaced.

Karl

PS I just got back from San Angelo. It was on that trip that I had a problem with the sputtering. It may have been bad gas b/c it hasn't done it since.
 
Originally Posted By: kargo27
So I'm wondering if the motor itself is bad?

I pulled it out and it's sitting next to me.

Any idea where I can buy one online?


That does sound like a bad blower motor. http://www.rockauto.com has one for $48. It does not include the blower wheel, you'll have to transfer the wheel from your old motor to the new one. I'm unsure how that's done, I'd expect a setscrew holds the wheel onto the motor shaft.
 
LOL, funny you should print that. I was just looking at that same page.

I tried locating the wheel using the part number given but no luck. I googled it and tried rock auto's website.

It's got one of those press on washers that bend to fit if you know what I mean, but it's not a set screw. It's like what they put on kid's wagon wheels. The washer is slotted (or star shaped) and presses on the shaft. The bending action of the metal keeps it tight on the axle. I could try to disassemble it.
 
LOL, funny you should print that. I was just looking at that same page.

I tried locating the wheel using the part number given but no luck. I googled it and tried rock auto's website.

It's got one of those press on washers that bend to fit if you know what I mean, but it's not a set screw. It's like what they put on kid's wagon wheels. The washer is slotted (or star shaped) and presses on the shaft. The bending action of the metal keeps it tight on the axle. I could try to disassemble it.
 
I was successful at removing that clip washer or whatever it's called and can take off the wheel.

I ordered the part from rock auto, thanks for all the help, gents.

Karl
 
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