I have always used wheel bearing grease between the bearing and rotor and the rotor and wheel. It seems to work well.
Fluid Film on Hub Flanges
- Thread starter The Critic
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I've used this on every brake related service or between any parts that I don't want sticking together. Good to 3,000F. Always worry that grease or anti seize might run if it gets hot.
For some reason why, I like these better than the Permatex Purple grease. I use the Orange stuff on the face of the piston and on the backing plate of the shim. Thick and works well.I've used this on every brake related service or between any parts that I don't want sticking together. Good to 3,000F. Always worry that grease or anti seize might run if it gets hot.
I usually spray whatever I'm using for car rust proofing on the wheel flanges, as I do a quick rust spray under the car on seasonal tire change overs. Could be fluid film or krown or rust check or a generic version. Never noticed it on the brakes and there is some oily residue left when I switch over again. I think anything is better than nothing and as long as you put a reasonable amount on there is no issue with brake contamination.
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Me too. It seems to last a long time too.
THIS plus also on the wheel studs/bolts (adjust your torques accordingly).
They have a new version called WoolWax that smells really good. I've undercoated three cars with it. Love the stuff.
Other than the odor have you noticed any appreciable difference between that and FF? Does it seem to be worth the extra $10/gal?
I used FF on one of our cars when I replaced the pads and rotors but it's only been about 4000 miles. Then again, if people believe heat will "melt" FF off, I shouldn't find any remaining, right ? I can try and check in the next few days by pulling the wheel. Not sure if I'll pull a caliper and rotor though....
I think the improvement in smell is definitely worth the money. Can't comment knowledgeably on durability comparison between the two. I really do believe if you comprehensively spray your rig's underside with the stuff every fall it would really help with corrosion. Be sure to warm the product up before spraying....I use a small box type electric resistance heater blowing on the bottle for 15 mins. I'm using the air powered suction sprayer they sell with the product. I've got a 2-post lift which makes it pretty easy.
Appreciate all of the responses.
I think I will stay with using a small film of nickel anti-seize on the inner ring of hub flange for vehicles that seem to need it.
I think I will stay with using a small film of nickel anti-seize on the inner ring of hub flange for vehicles that seem to need it.
I know this is an older thread but I have a few observations. First fluid film is HEADQUARTERED in California. It originally was used in a super super thick formulation to coat Navy ships. Here in our area we have a product called PFC from Pennsylvania. Protection First Class its a lanolin product but from a central PA company.
Second, Eric is really nowhere near Buffalo NY. I Guess to a left coaster he is but he's actually in a sleepy little town along I86 and I-390 south of Rochester NY. All of NYs southern tier is very poor and depressed. AND VERY RUSTY..
3rd in my experience with rust and NY, never seize doesn't work real well but anything is better than zero. The best brake care is to "service" brakes EVERY year. By service I mean disassemble and be sure the pins are free, the pads slide freely in the brackets and even use a sander to take a slight amount off the pads. Even scuff the rotor a bit. Every truck I've owned has had an issue with pads stuck in brackets not only creating premature wear but loss of fuel mileage. Is it worth paying a tech, probably not but it really is a good idea. I just put about $400 (u-joint, rotor, hub, pads) in my right front wheel none of which had been necessary had I serviced it annually. If I had a local tech do thus it would be over $1000 per wheel.
Second, Eric is really nowhere near Buffalo NY. I Guess to a left coaster he is but he's actually in a sleepy little town along I86 and I-390 south of Rochester NY. All of NYs southern tier is very poor and depressed. AND VERY RUSTY..
3rd in my experience with rust and NY, never seize doesn't work real well but anything is better than zero. The best brake care is to "service" brakes EVERY year. By service I mean disassemble and be sure the pins are free, the pads slide freely in the brackets and even use a sander to take a slight amount off the pads. Even scuff the rotor a bit. Every truck I've owned has had an issue with pads stuck in brackets not only creating premature wear but loss of fuel mileage. Is it worth paying a tech, probably not but it really is a good idea. I just put about $400 (u-joint, rotor, hub, pads) in my right front wheel none of which had been necessary had I serviced it annually. If I had a local tech do thus it would be over $1000 per wheel.
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I have tried many different spray lubes for my PEX crimpers. FF seems to stay the best and seems to make the crimpers smoother.
After watching a few South Main videos I used fluid film a few times. Haven't had any problems with it getting on the pads. Rotors came off easy.
I use FF on the hub interface also. You don't need to spray it on thick, just a quick dusting to give it that unique smell. And the hub doesn't get anywhere near hot enough for it to be an issue and if you sprayed it on so thick that it runs, well that is an application error.
I don't live in the rust belt and our rotors come off pretty easy even when nothing has been used so I'm not sure I'm the best test case for extreme corrosion protection. I'm always worried about some of the thicker anti-seize causing the runout to be out of spec, although the times I've used it I've never had any problem. Just paranoia on my part.
I don't live in the rust belt and our rotors come off pretty easy even when nothing has been used so I'm not sure I'm the best test case for extreme corrosion protection. I'm always worried about some of the thicker anti-seize causing the runout to be out of spec, although the times I've used it I've never had any problem. Just paranoia on my part.
I've never had an issue with rust on the hub face. The issue is rust inside the rotor hat where it slides over the outer edge of the hub flange. Even with coated rotors it happens over time/miles in a real salt zone. As said yearly disassembly is the key to control rust and binding from corrosion. I've had to beat off every coated rotor I have left on for a full pad wear cycle.
JTK
$100 Site Donor 2025
I don't know the guy, nor have I used his services, but Eric O from SMA does some of the most thorough brake, bearing and suspension work I've seen on the innerwebs, with the amount of care, corrosion removal, lubing, etc he does. IMO we does what works.
He also gets a lot of repeat work, so I tend to think FF does help keep rotors from corroding to hubs regardless of the high temp issues or he wouldn't do it.
I'm a FF and woolwax user myself, yet I don't use it for this application. I used never seize. I also do about one brake job for every 200 he does. LOL. EDIT, I didn't realize how old this thread was till after I posted.
He also gets a lot of repeat work, so I tend to think FF does help keep rotors from corroding to hubs regardless of the high temp issues or he wouldn't do it.
I'm a FF and woolwax user myself, yet I don't use it for this application. I used never seize. I also do about one brake job for every 200 he does. LOL. EDIT, I didn't realize how old this thread was till after I posted.
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I'm in the rustland of Detroit. I've always smeared chassis grease on the hub flange and inside of the wheel. Anyone who knows Chrysler vehicles in this type of environment understands what happens to alloy wheels here. I'm look brand new. Not a pock mark or any oxidation at all after 12 years living outside.
I always took my rear brakes mainly apart every fall to check and lube everything b4 winter.Then in spring again to clean all the winter salt and corrosion and crap off for summer. Never had any problems in 127,000 miles on my 05 Ram. I do the same to my 17 Tundra now.Saves a lot of headaches later.
JHZR2
Staff member
This was my first thought as well. If the hub is getting that hot, bearings and other items are too. Not good.
I’ll say that I’ve used ff on some partially exposed bolts on cars (in door jambs and places like that), and it has stayed clean and in place for years. No heat other than sun exposure. We know it washes off easily, but if not exposed to wash, it can last well.
I think any proper anti seize is milled so fine that it’s not an issue. Of course if you glob some in the wrong spot it could cause an issue. I usually use just a bit after cleaning the surface, and spread it evenly with a gloved finger.
Both of my GM products - 98 S-10 ZR2 and 04 Saab 9-3 came from the factory with a bit of grease on the mating surfaces.
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