Fluid film and wool wax question

[robshu145]

I have a 2013 Silverado and there's a good bit of rust on the frame it's all still solid for the moment I ordered a gallon of woolwax and six spray cans of fluid film I was going to fluid film first and brush on woolwax after my question is do I need to use a rust converter before that this is what it looks like

 

[Oillover]

I'd just hit it with liberal amounts of FF and hope for the best.

 

[robshu145]

How bad does that rust look to you

 

[robshu145]

That's the worst part of the frame is in the back the rest is pretty clean

 

[JoelB]

You need to knock off any flakey rust or it will expose bare metal when it falls off. Otherwise don't bother with a rust converter. The lanolin products stick best to surface rust.

 

[robshu145]

So I should just hit it with a bunch of fluid film

 

[robshu145]

This is what it looks like after power washing how bad does this look to you is it just surface rust

 

[AdmiralYoda]

Anything is better than nothing, but it would be wise to get rid of more rust. Those bubbles on the frame is scale which is rust/rot. Grab a hammer and a chisel/big screwdriver and knock them off. Wire brush them after to get rid of the loose stuff. If you have access to air tools get a "Needle Scaler" which will make quick work of it. Harbor Freight has some cheap ones.

Before you put any product on you want 100% of the loose stuff gone, otherwise when it does fall off there will be a bare spot.

Woolwax and Fluid film will coat the rust and prevent it from getting worse but it will need to be reapplied regularly. If time and money allows I'd put a rust converter on there to stop the rust in its tracks. Eastwood makes a "Platinum Rust Encapsulator" which is one of the best out there. It only comes in silver so you'll need to topcoat it after.

Instead of Woolwax or Fluid Film I'd lean more towards Noxudol. It is a wax that has chemicals in it to prevent and convert rust, so it is more of a long term solution. It lasts a long time and "creeps" into all the seams and crevices.

Noxudol 700 is a cavity wax which is best for places that don't get splashed. Inside rocker panels, door cavities, inside the frame, inner fenders, etc. It is thinner and creeps into smaller places. Noxudol 300 has a thicker wax base that is best for the undercarriage. They both are available in aerosol or a can to brush/spray on.

 

[robshu145]

So rust converter first the the whoolwax I already spent 250 on whool wax lol

 

[crashz]

Ugh that rear most crossmember looks thin.

Get as much of the loose rust off, that will help the lanolin by not having to penetrate as much crud. Dry it really well. then get in to the boxed sections with the spray wand. I suggest a FF or Woolwax sprayer (looks like a paint gun) with wand extensions. Get into the frame, bed crossmembers, rockers and cab corners. Pull the body plugs and spray like a madman. Note that rubber seals and plugs will deform!!! I cover and protect the brake hoses.

Once the inside stuff is done, then brush on the the reachable areas. This is an iterative process. You will find many spots that you miss, so keep doing it over a few months and touch up each year. The big spray gun is good for this.

I've also found that uncovered areas corrode more when the rest of the truck is protected. I've often thought I should use some sacrificial metal, and leave it exposed to protect the remaining parts. Like an anode/cathode of sorts.

 

[robshu145]

Okay ty

 

[robshu145]

I have a welder should I try to weld something up underneath that rear cross member

 

[robshu145]

Ugh that rear most crossmember looks thin.

Get as much of the loose rust off, that will help the lanolin by not having to penetrate as much crud. Dry it really well. then get in to the boxed sections with the spray wand. I suggest a FF or Woolwax sprayer (looks like a paint gun) with wand extensions. Get into the frame, bed crossmembers, rockers and cab corners. Pull the body plugs and spray like a madman. Note that rubber seals and plugs will deform!!! I cover and protect the brake hoses.

Once the inside stuff is done, then brush on the the reachable areas. This is an iterative process. You will find many spots that you miss, so keep doing it over a few months and touch up each year. The big spray gun is good for this.

I've also found that uncovered areas corrode more when the rest of the truck is protected. I've often thought I should use some sacrificial metal, and leave it exposed to protect the remaining parts. Like an anode/cathode of sorts.

Which crossmember u taking about

 

[crashz]

The one between the tow hitch brackets. In the first photo it looks like the metal may be eaten away at the lower edge in some spots.

 

[Lubener]

How bad does that rust look to you

Starting to look bad to be.

 

[robshu145]

It is I was actually thinking about doing away with the hitch and cutting it out and replacing it with the wide piece of square tubing

 

[Marcozi]

Rust never sleeps.

 

[Rust_Belt_Pete]

I mean whatever you want? Either one could work. You could also apply woolwax and reapply it later?
I usually do a coat right before snowfall starts and one after salt stops being used.
Why right after salt? We get crazy amount of moisute and rain right after snowfall is over and that does a lot more damage to the car. So I take the car to a car wash and get it rinsed and get it undercoated for rain/muggy season. Summer is fine and get it recoated before salt season again.

 

[JHZR2]

That looks pretty bad. I’d probably want to clean it a bit and paint it with Eastwood rust encapsulator first. Then coat with the lanolin of your choice. Wool wax has some harder variants that may be a good choice.

 

[Wingo]

Knock most of the stuff off, make sure to get the dirt and rocks out of crevices best you can, and fire away. Apply liberally absolutely everywhere, then as directions say drive down a dusty road for a bit to let dirt stick on it, helps retain it I guess.
At this point with that rust, it's just to stop it best you can. I have the same problem and have doused the underside heavily for a few years. So far, it looks just as bad as when I got it, but not worse, best I can ask for.