Flat tappet cam 2nd oil change

[Blazer79]

Hello everyone. This is my first post here. I have a question about engine break-in.

I just finished my Chevy 489 stroker which I'm about to start for the first time. It's got a 210/218 @0.050 .505/.505 lift hydraulic cam.

According to break-in procedures I've read, I'm supposed to run the first 20-30mins @2000-3000rpms with non-synthetic oil, then change it. Then drive about 200miles and then change the oil and filteragain. I'm covered for this first run because I was able to get a 12oz bottle of Crane Cams cam break-in Additive by miracle. I'm gonna use Quaker State 10w30 API SN with this additive. I'm stuck what to do afterwards. I know I'm supposed to drive it for about 200 miles with this next oil. The question is which oil?

I live outside the US. There is not much of a variety of oils. Especially non-synthetic ones. I had most of my parts of my engine shipped to me from the US. Unfortunately oils cannot fly. The only option is by ship, with an extra fee for "hazardous goods" and a month of waiting time.

I've researched and found some synthetic oils, like Mobil 1 15W-50 that I might be able to get ahold over here with 1200ppm ZDDP. Can I use a synthetic oil for the next 200miles? Or must I use a non-synthetic type?

Any help appreciated.

 

[bigt61]

I used Mobil 1 15W-50 with a couple of SBC road race cars - it worked very well. I think you could probably drive 100 miles on your initial break in oil, switch to Mobil 1 and be good to go. When we broke in race motors, we just did the 1st race (usually 150 or so miles counting qualifying and practice) on 20w50 conventional and then switched to Mobil 1. I had both high lift flat tappet and roller cam motors.

 

[Rob_Roy]

I successfully broke in a camshaft similar to yours with very stiff valve springs using Rotella 15w40 and a bottle of Crane Cams break-in additive. I would NOT us an API SN oil for this purpose.

Your procedure is fine. Do your best to make sure the engine is set to start and run on the first attempt, and get it right up to 2500 rpms or so.

Can you get some sort of HEDO in your area? 15w40 rated for diesel and gasoline should be fine for your big Chevy.

 

[ceast]

Check this out...Charlie

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KiyF0f2LSIs

 

[A_Harman]

Mobil 1 15w50 is a good choice of oil for that application.
Is Valvoline VR1 conventional available in Guatemala? It is made in 10w30 and 20w50 viscosities, and a mix of the two would yield a good 40-weight with 1300 ppm worth of zddp.

 

[TFB1]

Rotella should be fine, plenty of zinc for a moderate cam like yours...

 

[UNC017]

After the first 20-minute run-in with additive, I'd probably run one of the dedicated break-in oils from a company like Joe Gibbs, Roush, Royal Purple, etc. for the first oil change interval, IF you can get around the shipping issue. If not, then I'd go with a heavy duty (diesel application) engine oil like Rotella T6 for the first change interval since those typically have a good shot of extreme pressure additives..

After that, run what you want, not much reason to have over 800 PPM ZDDP once the cam and lifters are broken in against each other. FWIW, the sub-1000PPM limit doesn't apply to 40-weight oils, which is why Mobil 1 15w50, Mobil 1 0w40, and Rotella T6 can carry an SN rating and still have plenty of ZDDP. If it were my engine, I'd put it on Mobil 1 0w40 once I dumped the break-in oil (not after the 20-min cam run-in, after an initial OCI with a break-in oil).

 

[Blazer79]

Thanks for your replies. Thanks for the video Ceast.

Shell is only found as Helix over here. Don't know if it's the equivalent of Rotella. Can't find any valvoline or Joe Gibbs, Roush, Royal Purple, etc. either. Quaker State rules in sales over here. I can find Mobil 1, but it's a synthetic oil.

My dilemma is in which oil I'm going to use after the 20min break-in and before I switch to synthetic. Do you see a problem using a synthetic or synthetic blend for this? I found Quaker State Defy in 10W-40, but I think this is a synthetic blend. Would this be OK?

 

[A_Harman]

Defy in the 20 and 30 grades is rated API SL, which means it is limited to 1000 ppm of Phosphorous. I don't know if the 10w40 is also 1000 ppm, but that would be the way that I bet. Defy is a synthetic blend, but I don't think that should deter you from using it. I don't consider Defy to be a "high-zddp" oil.

Can you get zddp additives in Guatemala? (Crane Cams or Redline break-in additives, or ZDDPlus. And there are probably many others. I wouldn't recommend GM EOS if you can get the preceding ones.)
Otherwise, 15w40 diesel oils would seem to be your only alternative.

 

[Brit33]

Had similar issues here in uruguay!
Broke my cams in with standard valvoline mineral 20w50 with assembly moly paste added to the lobes.

Now a year or so later all good using fully synthetic oils such as motul and castrol.
I got zddpmaxx shipped to Uruguay without issues.
I just add a small amount each change.

I can't even get Mobil 1 15w50 here

 

[artificialist]

What viscosity did your engine remanufacturer tell you to use? Since they may set bearing clearances wider and use a higher volume oil pump, they might need a higher viscosity. That would help us recommend an oil to you.

 

[Blazer79]

Thanks for all your replies.

I'm trying to convince my shipping company to let me import a small 12oz bottle of additive without the premium fees. Otherwise I'll look into the Quaker State Defy. Maybe I can find the ZDDP of the 20W50. Although I wouldn't like to use such a high viscosity oil.

artificialist: I think the original engine from 1972 called for a 10W40 oil, but The only thing I'm using from that engine is the block and bare heads. Everything else is new. If memory serves well, clearances are around 1.5 to 2.0 thousands on the mains. Does that help?