Flared nut wrench set

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Buy just the sizes you need in Snap-on. You don't need to buy a whole set; that's why they sell them individually. Don't cheap out on tools; find something else to cheap out on.
 
I just bought the one wrench I needed. Williams(low polish snap on) 10/12mm combo flare wrench, look on ebay, it was under $20 IIRC.
 
I have a rather complete set of Craftsman, and never had a problem with any of them, and that set has gotten me through many old rotten jobs. I live in the salt belt.

I also have selected Allen wrenches which appear to be about the same quality as the Craftsman, and have had to use a couple of them on large fittings on a plow setup.

Finally, I have a nice new set of SK metric, with a high polish. The chrome hasn't chipped, so they are smooth and clean up easily. For this reason, alone, they are my favorite ones to grab right now.

There are also flare wrench style crowsfoot wrenches which will work on a socket extension. Tight quarters like manifolds could suggest those, but you probably won't need them for cars. Possibly for industrial and construction equipment.
 
Originally Posted By: Merkava_4
Buy just the sizes you need in Snap-on. You don't need to buy a whole set; that's why they sell them individually. Don't cheap out on tools; find something else to cheap out on.


what's with the Snap-On? Good tools for sure but far from being the be all and end all.
If you want the best in line wrenches go with Hazet, they have the tops closed of with a line slit so it cant move off the fitting and reinforces the flair end, made with the best tool steel.

dgac.jpg
 
Originally Posted By: Trav
Originally Posted By: Merkava_4
Buy just the sizes you need in Snap-on. You don't need to buy a whole set; that's why they sell them individually. Don't cheap out on tools; find something else to cheap out on.


what's with the Snap-On? Good tools for sure but far from being the be all and end all.
If you want the best in line wrenches go with Hazet, they have the tops closed of with a line slit so it cant move off the fitting and reinforces the flair end, made with the best tool steel.

dgac.jpg




Source please?? I need to buy a few for a project I'll be starting when the snow melts.
 
Trav,

I noticed that the Proto wrench end is configured much different than most of the others. Do you have experience with these two different styles and have any comment if one works better in regards to not rounding flare nuts? Sorry for the large pictures!
81DYGYgVl5L._SL1500_.jpg

VS.
$_3.JPG
 
The Proto uses TorquePlus that grips the side of the fastener better.
It works very well. Most companies now have this kind of system with different names.

The Proto is also "Made in USA". At this level there are no "bad" tools just different finishes and features.
In this case I give the nod to the Proto. Yes I have used both and a few others.
 
Thank you.

I am aware of the "flank drive" features. The Proto design grabs 4 corners(2 near the beam=stronger?) while the others grab 5 corners(1 near beam).

I just found 2 in-depth discussions about this at the Garage Journal. There seems to only be anecdotal evidence of one vs. the other.

http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=158860

http://garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=157673 ..... check out the pictures here for an interesting discusion for those of us who ponder these things.....fascinating to me, but "does it work" is what really counts, as you imply in your comment about actual differences (lack of) at this quality level

Photo Credit: garage journal, Jon Kensey ...Any engineers here who can contribute comments??????
7558807012_da454351d4_c.jpg
 
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The so called "flank drive" which was a Snap-On held patent is said to round fasteners less. I believe that may be true, especially on softer fasteners, however, I have not done any studies, nor have I seen any peer reviewed studies.

Most sockets and wrenches I have bought recently have that feature.

BTW, it may not be true for Craftsman today, but I believe that Allen made many of their wrenches in the past. They have similar features, wear characteristics, etc.

For most people, their use of flare wrenches will be sporadic. If you need to do lots of work with flare wrenches, consider buying mid-line and then upgrading as your usage increases.

The use of good penetrants, and sometimes heat, may help your success as much or more than the differences in flare wrenches. If you can apply shock to the fitting that can also help. Sometimes loosening, followed by a slight tightening, helps free up the oxide particles, and keep fittings from binding so that they might fail.

One final thing, I like my flare wrenches snug. I don't mind tapping them on, if it helps me loosen a fitting. So you might take a steel fitting of the size you are interested in, and see how much play a given wrench has.
 
I don't know if there is an advantage to one or the other or how much the 2 at the end of the flair contribute to the strength or grip if any.

The Proto may be able to get on some rubber line fittings easier with its wider throat but I cant say I ever ran into any problems with either style.
I see in the garage journal comments some are referring to "new" and "old" style I don't believe that to be the case.

Stahlwille another premium German brand is using the same style as Proto, I would bet money on them tossing the design if their engineering thought the design inferior in any way, ditto Proto.
Both companies have been doing this for donkeys years and doing it well, because HF copies a style that Proto uses and is junk doesn't mean the design is bad or Proto will suffer the same fate.
It means HF made a piece of junk with cheap steel nothing more.

IMHO both designs are equally capable of holding the fastener as long as the steel is strong enough to prevent spreading, again at this level that should not come into question.
 
One thing that does come into question at this quality level of wrench is how much grip is lost to the opening that the line fits through. My opinion is that for a flare-nut wrench the loss of a whole side is worse than the loss of a corner. I also feel that a feature such as OptiDrive or TorquePlus is little if any walue and FlankDrive Plus is a negative on this type of wrench.

As far as chrome finish goes: Chrome is great in that it makes cleanup so much quicker, but that is of little concern on a wrench that won't be used much or that is going to see more brake fluid than oil or grease. If the wrench is going to be gently hammered onto a line nut though, the hardness of the chrome is a good thing.

For a wrench that's going to be used once without rust: don't worry about this stuff.
 
Just throwing these two out there - I haven't seen them before.
Sealey VS0342
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ErPMQrsAiio

Del City brake line wrench
http://blip.tv/v8tv/tool-tech-del-city-ratcheting-brake-line-set-makes-repairs-easier-6646583

It's hard to tell the difference between the two; the former look like a satin finish and is .uk based, and the latter look smooth chrome and .us based. I don't know why the Sealey image's wrench is stamped 11 on both ends; seems one 11 is enough. I guess one end is hinged and the other is not.

Sealey:
VS0342.jpg


Del City:
9909833_primary.jpg
 
Originally Posted By: Merkava_4
Originally Posted By: Trav

what's with the Snap-On?


They're the best tools with rock solid dependability.

The "best tools" is your opinion, they are dependable for the most part.
Some of their tools may be the among the best but certainly not all.
 
Originally Posted By: Trav
The "best tools" is your opinion, they are dependable for the most part.
Some of their tools may be the among the best but certainly not all.


Everybody has an opinion; some are cleaner than others.
grin2.gif
 
I have a set of S&K flare nut wrenches. I got them used but in good condition at an excellent price.

I learned the lesson the hard way that cheap flare nut wrenches don't get the job done. I had some from Pep Boys, and the first time I used them, the ends spread out, failing to turn the nut, and rounding it off. I ended up having to fabricate a new fuel line.

The S&K flare nut wrenches never let me down. However, I have had nothing but problems from S&K sockets. Weird...
 
Regarding SK...I mentioned earlier that I had some SK metric flares, which I like because of the smooth chrome and easy cleanup. None of the flare wrenches I have had had problems (old Craftsman or new SK).

BUT I have had a horrible problem with a SK ratchet (3886 I believe). Out of the box it was defective, and I sent it to the local distributor who fell over themselves, but could not get a replacement for SK for 9 months.

The wrench came with a universal drive set, and I was looking forward to trying the ratchet. Now that I have it back, I have not used it once.

Hope the OP got what he wanted from this thread.
 
Originally Posted By: 67lemans
About 12 years ago I was doing a brake job and Picked up a set of AM Pro flare nut wrenches. They sucked. They spread and started rounding the fitting. Ended up using the open end of a Craftsman combo wrench. Decided there and then that flare nut wrenches are not a tool you want to cheap out on.


My 80's vintage Carftsman regular open end wrenches work way better than my HF flare wrenches.
 
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