Fixing boot on ball joint

[JHZR2]

This is the away bar link on my 04 saab 9-3. Ball joints function well, nice and tight, no play. But to remove, a spanner is required to hold the shaft. I think that when I put my open end wrench on there, I knocked off the rubber or the boot off the shaft. I guess I did it, or maybe that's how it has been. Anyway, joint is still good so I'd like to just stick a little grease in there and close it back up. Any recommendations how?

 

[ls1mike]

Does it go between the wrench flats on the stud and the pushed up piece? Not sure how you get it to stay in there. I supposed you could put a little epoxy on it and push back down in the grove. If it were me I would probably swap it out.

 

[Chris142]

The boots fine. Just the metal clip came off. Remove the clip,lower the boot and reinstall the clip.

 

[JHZR2]

Originally Posted By: Chris142
The boots fine. Just the metal clip came off. Remove the clip,lower the boot and reinstall the clip.


That's what I need to know... How do I remove the clip? Looks like a keyring...

 

[JC1]

Does the ball joint squeak? Some web posts say to use a needle and pierce the boot and fill it up with more grease as a temporary solution. What it sounds like to me, is to replace it soon with a greaseable ball joint when you're ready.

Regards, JC.

 

[ls1mike]

So that is a clip? I don't think any of mine are like that.
I assume it goes around the recessed lower part of the boot. If that is the case it should be an easy fix, even if the clip is bad.

 

[djb]

The retainer is the spring steel wire ring -- the part that looks like a keyring.

There is typically a wire retainer on the larger diameter was well.

I've found it very difficult to locate replacement ball joint boots. There are brightly colored 'dress up' parts, but often in a "universal" size that doesn't fit.

I understand why people say "just get a new part", but for some cars you need to replace the whole suspension link. That can be expensive, with the new part of uncertain quality. All for a boot that should cost $1.

 

[doitmyself]

Seems like all you can try is to get 2 small hobby type screw drivers, pry under the spring clip gently, and try to expand it and slip it down over the "flat" area.

If the spring clip deforms, then just pull it off entirely and use some wire (17 gauge electric fence wire seems right) and make your own wire tie clip (like a plastic bread bag tie).

Work some grease under the boot, slip it over the groove, and wire it on. Maybe even a small nylon cable tie might work.

 

[JHZR2]

I should have clarified. It isn't a spring clip. It's like a keyring - acwire wrapped twice in a circular ring. The question is how one expands it to get it back over the boot.

A new wire may do it, but if I can fix it right, I may get many more years from it. Since the boot is open I can add some grease, otherwise the existing grease is fine.

 

[Chris142]

Id start with a small pick

 

[mene]

Remove the metal retainer lower the boot neck and use a small ziplock as retainer, I've seen small ones at Radio Shack and Harbor freight, perhaps Home Depot/Lowes has them too, Tractor Supply/Northern Tool?. Try to save the boot, changing the whole thing mitgh end up messing something else and the work and cost goes up exponentially.
Best of luck!

 

[AndyinAL]

Everybody needs a needle for their grease gun. Perfect application here. I wouldn't stress too much over the 10 year old endlink, new ones can be had for $15 on Rockauto.

 

[Trav]

Originally Posted By: JHZR2
I should have clarified. It isn't a spring clip. It's like a keyring - acwire wrapped twice in a circular ring. The question is how one expands it to get it back over the boot.

A new wire may do it, but if I can fix it right, I may get many more years from it. Since the boot is open I can add some grease, otherwise the existing grease is fine.


With a small flat blade screwdriver just pry the open end over the boot lip then roll it on with the screwdriver. No problem they go right back on just be careful not to stick the screwdriver in the boot.

 

[JHZR2]

Originally Posted By: AndyinAL
Everybody needs a needle for their grease gun. Perfect application here. I wouldn't stress too much over the 10 year old endlink, new ones can be had for $15 on Rockauto.



Yes, it would be easily replaceable at any time!

 

[The_Jeff]

I'd go at it with two flat screwdrivers from below and expand it enough to get it down over that "big part". Then haul the boot down to where it should go and carefully pop the ring up and on.

 

[hattaresguy]

I never fix ball joints, once they open up sand and dirt gets in and the joint is shortly done. If its tight stick it back on, and you will be replacing it in a year or so.

 

[andyd]

Originally Posted By: hattaresguy
I never fix ball joints, once they open up sand and dirt gets in and the joint is shortly done. If its tight stick it back on, and you will be replacing it in a year or so.
I fix them all the time. Its been a while since I've bought new front end parts. Grab an end of the key ring with a pair of pliers and pull it off Toss it in the rubbish pack the ball joint wit grease ,slide the boot back into place. I use waxed lashing twine from my telephone days to secure it, But anything small will work.

 

[JHZR2]

Originally Posted By: hattaresguy
I never fix ball joints, once they open up sand and dirt gets in and the joint is shortly done. If its tight stick it back on, and you will be replacing it in a year or so.


But no sand or grit got in. I did this, and the car did not move. Its clean in there and the ball joint is perfect.

If I do nothing, sand and grit will get in. If I fix it, it may be fine for another 10 years.

 

[jmb106]

pull it down, zip tie it if you cant expand the other ring.

 

[buck91]

I've done the needle greasing on a control arm ball joint with a shredded boot. Used chassis grease with some moly bar&chain spray grease as well and it has held up amazingly.

Of course, I sold the car a couple years ago but to my knowledge the BJ's are holding up.