Fixed a U0114 code problem on my 2016 Honda CR-V EX AWD

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Aug 22, 2009
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Pittsburgh,PA U.S.A.
About 3 weeks ago, I cleaned the MAF and MAP sensors again. A few days later I checked for codes using my BlueDriver scan tool. A code U0114 showed up. Its for loss of communication with the clutch of the rear-end for AWD. I cleared it and moved the vehicle and it came back.

When the stars aligned, ( weather and my back allowed it ), I put the back tires up on the heavy duty set of Rhino-Ramps, blocked the front tires, and threw a big sheet of cardboard under it, and took apart the connector to the rear-end after removing a small metal shield held on by two 10mm bolts.

I sprayed some Corrosion X Aviation grade into a clean small plastic left over yogurt cup and used a Q-tip to put the Corrosion X on the connector, both the contacts and the back where the wires go in so I got the wire crimps good also. Worked the connector onto the rear-end connector just before it would click on completely and back off several times and then put it on all the way.

Then followed the wire out and found another connector under the vehicle somewhat hidden under a plastic flap. Put Corrosion X on that connector and the one beside it, in similar way working the connections together and apart several times.

Cleared the code. Drove it a few times and checked it a few times during the last couple of weeks. Its not showing any code now. So its staying away and apparently now works fine.

Corrosion X Aviation is great stuff for preventing corrosion around battery post and the often seen bare wire ends of battery cables. Its used in Aviation for electrical connections and it really does prevent bad connections.

My previous spray can of it lasted more than 15 years. And when it finally ran out, I immediately bought another.

I dont know if the U0114 problem was a poor connection or interferance from road-salt build up, but its cleaned up and treated and working fine now.

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I can imagine someone taking an identical problem to a dealer and some tech throwing the parts cannon at it with expensive parts and considerable time producing a bill of over a thousand dollars.

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I tried cleaning out moisture and sealing and treating connections when the common door handle problem happened, and eventually had to still buy a new door handle.

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But sometimes its just a bad connection that needs some cleaning and treating with a good electric contact cleaner, is all that's needed to get things working fine again.

Before taking it to a dealer, or throwing parts at it, if its an electrical problem, try cleaning the connectors.
 
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I can imagine someone taking an identical problem to a dealer and some tech throwing the parts cannon at it with expensive parts and considerable time producing a bill of over a thousand dollars.
Not saying I agree with it or not, but if the diagnosis is a bad connector, aren't most shops going to simply replace it vs doing a "let's hope it works" repair ? For DIY work, absolutely try something like this. Shops aren't going to chance it though.
 
Not saying I agree with it or not, but if the diagnosis is a bad connector, aren't most shops going to simply replace it vs doing a "let's hope it works" repair ? For DIY work, absolutely try something like this. Shops aren't going to chance it though.

The connections looked good. Sometimes it simply tarnish built up. It may have even worked by just putting it apart and together several times. The Corrosion X helps keep it from coming back.

Locating a specific connector is not always easy, and then theres the added connections of splicing it in as future fail points. Dealers may even want to replace an entire harness. Which would only be a few feet in this case, but sometimes is cost prohibitive or has extremely long wait times.

Sometimes, just working a connections several times and treating it with a good product is a very good fix.
 
I've tried Stabilant 22 and DeOxit and to be honest, haven't found that to be superior to just using any electrical contact cleaner and a toothbrush.
 
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