First time learning how to ride motorcycle

OP has signed up for a riding course, great first step. (y)

FTR the suggestions to get a dirt bike and learn to ride on the trails is good but makes the big assumption that an off road riding area is available nearby. Hopefully that doesn't require riding on the road to get to. 😣 Not everyone has access.
If I was a young person ( i'm not) and IF I didn't grow up in the 70's riding mini bikes, I did as I had a new 1976 Honda Z50 at 10 years old I would love even as a young adult to buy a new tiny Honda Grom or something to learn on. Even now as the owner of a few Harleys If I was a smaller guy ( I'm not ) I would love to also own a Grom, Trail125 or Monkey just to take me back to 10 years old but the new bikes are street legal when my Z50 was not but those little bike look like fun!
Those would never replace owning a motorcycle but who would not love one of those little guys?
 
I would recommend Bell or Bilt. They are nice budget helmets. You can find them used in very good condition on FB marketplace.
I bought there a couple of used, but looking as new helmets.

Personally, I wouldn't buy a used helmet. It could have been dropped, causing the shell to deform when it hits, and then immediately returning to it's original shape, with minimal or no signs of this happening on the shell surface. The problem is that it could've crushed the EPS liner in that spot, meaning it will no longer be able to absorb a hit in that spot again. Which makes the helmet useless for it's intended purpose.

Then there's also the manufacturing date of the helmet to consider. A helmets useful life is finite, as the EPS slowly deteriorates from the time it's manufactured. Generally that time frame is 5 years from the date of manufacture, or in some cases 7 years from the date manufacture, allowing for up to 2 years before being sold and put into service.

I do know that racing organizations will not allow helmets to be used past those age limits, as they know the shock-absorbing ability of the EPS declines over time.

Yes, the OP doesn't seem to have any plans to race, so his helmet won't be declined if it can't pass a racing organization tech inspection. But it will eventually have an effect on how well it can protect his head in the event of the helmet hitting the ground. Which is the whole point of wearing a helmet in the first place.

Finally, price should not be the final determining factor. Yes, you can get some good helmets cheaply, but they're usually cheap for a reason. Do your due diligence.
 
Personally, I wouldn't buy a used helmet. It could have been dropped, causing the shell to deform when it hits, and then immediately returning to it's original shape, with minimal or no signs of this happening on the shell surface. The problem is that it could've crushed the EPS liner in that spot, meaning it will no longer be able to absorb a hit in that spot again. Which makes the helmet useless for it's intended purpose.

Then there's also the manufacturing date of the helmet to consider. A helmets useful life is finite, as the EPS slowly deteriorates from the time it's manufactured. Generally that time frame is 5 years from the date of manufacture, or in some cases 7 years from the date manufacture, allowing for up to 2 years before being sold and put into service.

I do know that racing organizations will not allow helmets to be used past those age limits, as they know the shock-absorbing ability of the EPS declines over time.

Yes, the OP doesn't seem to have any plans to race, so his helmet won't be declined if it can't pass a racing organization tech inspection. But it will eventually have an effect on how well it can protect his head in the event of the helmet hitting the ground. Which is the whole point of wearing a helmet in the first place.

Finally, price should not be the final determining factor. Yes, you can get some good helmets cheaply, but they're usually cheap for a reason. Do your due diligence.
Great information for new riders.
 
It may be best to get some experience riding off road until you feel comfortable with the operation of the motorcycle. Balance, judgement in corners, and the most important skill of all, stopping. Get proficient in using both brakes..

The following is practice and tips for quick stops: The front brake accounts for 85% of your total stopping power. The rear brake is about 15%. Reason is that when the motorcycle is slowing weight is transferred forward to the front tire allowing the tire to bite into the road surface more without slipping. This same forward weight transfer is the reason the rear wheel will skid sooner than you think it should and provides little stopping power.

We (I am a Police Motorcycle Instructor) practice stopping Harley touring motorcycles over and over again during our range days. From 40 mph they will stop in less than 60 feet. From 60 mph they will stop in about 115 feet. These numbers are generated with a smooth clean level road surface, experienced rider skill level, a motorcycle with a well functioning braking system, tires with good tread and proper air pressures. All optimum conditions. Add in extra distance for less than perfect conditions.

Practice braking in a straight line, then braking in a curve. Then braking from road to offroad. Always brake in a straight line. If you are in a curve, straighten up the motorcycle then brake. Front brake application is with 4 fingers on the lever, smooth precise application just short of any lock up or ABS event (if you have ABS). You will apply much less pressure on the rear brake than you think.

Once you are comfortable with this, which should be after days of practicing just this, add in night time, and rainy weather. Find an empty road to practice on. Put out cones and gradually work up to the numbers above.

Practice, alertness, reaction time, and knowing how your motorcycle will react under different conditions is the key to avoiding crashes. Brake pads are cheap, fixing you is not.
 
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You could learn the way most of us on here did, on the way home from buying the bike. Not recommended.
...

A friend who still rides told me he has the attitude everything else on the road is out to kill him...
oh so true both lines! Though the last one a little harsh, I do ride like no one else on the road can see me. I actually make a game out of it.
 
Just sign up for the riding course . Will start soon. They required to bring a helmet and a glove.

Any brand recommend for helmet .
You really need to try them on, different brands fit differently e.g. Arai vs Shoei vs rest; you don't want any hot spots and pinching etc. I had HJC and AGV, one was one piece and the other flip up design. One piece are stronger and flip up is more convenient when you don't want to take it off to have a smoke :ROFLMAO:
Full face helmets are the safest as statistically most hits in accidents fall onto chin and back of the head areas.
 
On the discussion of helmets, Full face is a must as a new rider.

Every helmet fits everybody different. I have an Arai/ Shoei head, AGVs fit weird for me.

Cycle Gear/ Revzilla is your friend here. Try on as many as you can.

White is alot cooler (temp wise) and alot more visable. I wear an Arai XD5 in bright neon yellow because I dont care about vanity, I care about being seen.

Congrats on taking the riding class that is one of the best ways to learn the fundamentals.
 
I think I will keep around 400-500CC. I don’t want no fast bike, it was never in my mind. If I want feel fast , I take my cobra out and doing couple hard pull on the highway when no one around and I know it safe. I feel more protect that way lol .

Riding motorcycle for me is just for enjoyment on a none busy day where I can take to some back road with less or no traffic and just cruise. I don’t take it out during traffic hours or raining day.

You are lucky that these bikes exist now. Back in the day it was either a 250, 600 or 1,000cc bike.

I agree, the 400-500 is the sweet spot for not getting run over but not getting carried away with too much power.

I would recommend a touring model if you can CB500X or something that has a low seat and upright position. Being able to get your leg out in a parking lot is important. More than likely, you're going to drop it too so the ability to install crash bars or have metal bar ends may help in the long run.
 
I would recommend Bell or Bilt. They are nice budget helmets. You can find them used in very good condition on FB marketplace.
I bought there a couple of used, but looking as new helmets.
I recently picked up a Sedici helmet. Basically Revzilla/cycle gear brand that is a step up from Bilt. Nice helmet for the price!
 
Yes, you can get some good helmets cheaply, but they're usually cheap for a reason.
You are right. Most of the time the reason is that those people rode 2-3 times and sold their bike or they were just a passenger and their bf/husband sold his bike. It's basically buying a brand new helmet at half price.

Nice helmet for the price!
I got a brand new plain white helmet from a girl that probably wore it 1-2 the most. Her bf/husband told me he sold his bike. You can tell what is the condition of the helmet just by looking at the pictures on the ad/posting. Of course if you go in person and something doesn't look right, you can always pass.
 
OP, you’re curious about motorcycles but don’t expand on why and where very much; do you want to roll up to bike nights with Molly Hatchet blaring? Head to the mountains and enjoy the feeling of setting up a corner and perfectly executing it? Have a fun run around to take to dinner on Fridays? Or Be a long mileage highway guy?

Those answers will play into what you want to buy for your bike, and most do outgrow their first bike. You’ll have to think of things like ground clearance, fuel range, amenities like cruise and enough juice for heated gear, weight of the bike, and naturally power to do what you want.

There’s lots of great advice in this thread, I’ll echo that gear is imperative; lots of reputable and affordable options; stay away from no name random stuff; clearance sales will be your friend.

What everyone is saying about city riding is true from my experience and only getting worse. I have low 6 figures of mileage with plenty of city miles and was motorcycle only for over a year in a climate with near daily rain; I still love to ride even after that. These days I’m almost exclusively a mountain road rider; that’s my happy place.

One thing I didn’t see mentioned or may have missed is the delta between confidence the bike gives you and road knowledge. When you become proficient and less afraid it begins to feel like you’re riding on easy mode and you can get complacent which can get you in a bad way. I ride the same mountain roads all year and know which intersection cars never see you, or my personal favorite the church with a driveway right around a blind corner. Even a road I know like the Deal’s Gap (aka Tail of the Dragon); I’ll do a sighting lap to look out for fallen trees, spilled oil, etc. before the days rides. Put simply, don’t give in to exuberance in place of prudence.

My current steeds

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IMG_0455.webp
 
I use to ride, my last bike being an Aprilia Shiver 750. I DO NOT recommend getting an underpowered first bike as most people tell you.
I would not feel safe on something that a Corolla LE would be faster between stop lights. Having owned and ridden many bikes in the past, I wouldn't want to be in city traffic on something underpowered.

If I were to buy a first bike today after a motorcycle class I'd get a KTM Duke 390.
 
OP, you’re curious about motorcycles but don’t expand on why and where very much; do you want to roll up to bike nights with Molly Hatchet blaring? Head to the mountains and enjoy the feeling of setting up a corner and perfectly executing it? Have a fun run around to take to dinner on Fridays? Or Be a long mileage highway guy?

Those answers will play into what you want to buy for your bike, and most do outgrow their first bike. You’ll have to think of things like ground clearance, fuel range, amenities like cruise and enough juice for heated gear, weight of the bike, and naturally power to do what you want.

There’s lots of great advice in this thread, I’ll echo that gear is imperative; lots of reputable and affordable options; stay away from no name random stuff; clearance sales will be your friend.

What everyone is saying about city riding is true from my experience and only getting worse. I have low 6 figures of mileage with plenty of city miles and was motorcycle only for over a year in a climate with near daily rain; I still love to ride even after that. These days I’m almost exclusively a mountain road rider; that’s my happy place.

One thing I didn’t see mentioned or may have missed is the delta between confidence the bike gives you and road knowledge. When you become proficient and less afraid it begins to feel like you’re riding on easy mode and you can get complacent which can get you in a bad way. I ride the same mountain roads all year and know which intersection cars never see you, or my personal favorite the church with a driveway right around a blind corner. Even a road I know like the Deal’s Gap (aka Tail of the Dragon); I’ll do a sighting lap to look out for fallen trees, spilled oil, etc. before the days rides. Put simply, don’t give in to exuberance in place of prudence.

My current steeds

View attachment 304394

View attachment 304396
My main reason is get to know how to ride the motorcycle and take out and just cruise some back road where little to no traffic. We don’t have mountain or dirt road here in Dallas Tx .

My problem now is when I turn. I keep see myself slow down and where my instructor keep tell me give more gas.
 
Set your speed as you are getting ready for the corner, use the brakes or engine braking to slow down. As you roll into the corner, keep a neutral throttle which helps keep the bike balanced front to back for weight distribution and traction.

Roll gently onto the throttle as soon as you can as you begin to exit the corner and that begins to transfer weight to the rear wheel which has much more contact patch and traction than the front wheel.

Issues in corners in my experience are because in the front tire is being asked to do way too much and a common mistake is dabbing at the front brake. Slowing the bike down with the front brake once leaned over causes the front suspension to compress which changes the handling geometry and puts more load on the front tire which then wants to push through the corner instead of maintaining an arc.
 
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