First time DIY Manual Tranny Change

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OriginHacker21

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Well, I summoned up my courage - found the drain plug for my 5spd manual Getrag transaxil transmission. Pulled it out - and watched the Amsoil ATF drain that I had in it 30,000 miles ago by a mechanic.

On the record - the mechanic put in 1.5 quarts into the transmission (of Amsoil ATF). After looking at my manual, Amsoil's website, and a Haynes book - the transmission clearly calls for 1.8quarts.

So, I put in newly purchased Amsoil Manual Synchromesh Transmission Fluid and made sure to get 1.85 quarts in
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.


Question: Any damage by running 1.5 quarts for 30,000 miles? I don't think so but anyway - the amsoil atf looked new when I drained it. So must be a good sign. (I drive mostly (98%) highway).

Whats the best way to make sure things are done right? Do It Yourself!
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Comments, Questions, Suggestions, similar experiences all welcome!
 
Yes, if you know what you're doing, DIY is always better.

Many manual transmissions have the fill plug serve as a level indicator... you know the fill charge is reached when fluid starts coming out of the hole. Isn't your transmission set up that way? Due to production variances (of chiefly the cast housing), this setup is better than measuring the fill.
 
Why aren't you using AMSOIL ATF this time? Sure your transmission needs the thicker lube?
 
quote:
Originally posted by OriginHacker21:
Whats the best way to make sure things are done right? Do It Yourself!
Click to expand...
This came up in another thread: make sure you can undo the fill plug BEFORE you drain.
 
I didn't know that (undo fill plug before drain) - I believe I took off the fill plug as it was draining - then poured the remaining Amsoil ATF (.5 quarts)? in as a "flush."


The Critic - I was under the impression that the MTF stuff would be "smoother" shifting and more protection.
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It is smoother from what I can tell -but only a little bit. Any advantage to the ATF over MTF? or other way around?

Kestas - I believe so - there is no dip stick so I assume you fill it like you mentioned.

[ August 27, 2006, 01:28 AM: Message edited by: OriginHacker21 ]
 
I run the Amsoil MTL in my getrag in my PT GT which called for ATF. I think DC uses ATF because they wont have to stock 2 lubes. I drained the current batch of MTL put in last year and it had 20K miles and looked pretty good, slightly browner and no major metal in it. I change the fluid once a year and had used the Amsoil ATF before that but I think the new manual transmission fluid is better and it shifts well even when it gets to -20 degrees up here in the winter.
 
Awesome to hear VNT - thank you for the info. My getrag tranny seems to be ok with this stuff - there are no drips on the cement where I park.

I'd think that shifting is a little smoother - I'm sure it is due to MTF being thicker than ATF.

Good to hear about the -20F. I was a little worried that it would get stiff in California's freezing winter of 60F degrees.
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Due to the sump being 1.8 quarts - I'll probably change this stuff out pretty often. Local independent mechanic recommended 30k at the very most.
 
What car do you own that has the getrag, I know they supply for a few OEM's.

In the 80's they supplied the high capacity gear sets for Chrysler for the Shelby turbos T2/T3 and T4 cars from 87-93. Very stout pieces. I have them in my other cars. Chrysler used to spec ATF in them thru 1987 but superceded to 5w-30 engine oil to improve durability. I viewed a tape from 97 with SDAC club and they had Ed Peters who was head reliability engineer and retired from Chrysler in 1994 or so at seminar. Anyhow he recommended using a synthetic engine oil in the trans and also showed failure modes, mainly leaks which resulted in worn bearing and shaft in the trans.
Said the trans was good to about 450 ft-lbs of tourque from their testing and at time was the best transaxle available in any car from a strenght standpoint. I have scene a 2.5 Shadow with a 16V head and big turbo dynoed pushing about 390 HP and 460 ft-lbs at the wheels not kill one.
 
We always check the fill plug before draining. at least 20% of the fill plugs come in so badly mangled you can't get them out without welding a piece on them. So we send them to the welder first. When something is welded on to twist, then we can fill and replace the plug.
 
I think the right way to do the getrag is to pull the side level plug, top fill plug hole and then the drain plug as discussed so you can stop the project if you can't put oil back in. 1.5 out verses 1.8 qt in is no big deal but if you pull the side level plug and do the project or last pour while level you get the right amount. Most mechanic filled MT seem to be a little overfilled as the mechanic usually puts the side level plug back in when the flow starts to come out rather than waiting for the level to stop dripping.

An overfill is worse as as it will cause the oil to aerate and lose some protection. You can just pull the side level plug to check this. Or add checking the level again in 15K.
 
I'll tell you one thing - when I went from factory fill to Amsoil ATF (at 36,000 miles) shifting was seriously smoother and a lot easier. With Amsoil MTF - it seemed a little stiffer and more difficult to get into the gears than with ATF.

I just drained the Amsoil MTF and put in some Royal Purple ATF last night. Shifting is easier. Manual calls for ATF for the manual transaxle. I just put in the 2 quarts - will get on level ground and take out the check plug and see if anything comes out.

I just filled via the vent plug - a lot easier to get the tranny funnel down to that and a WHOLE lot easier to get off.
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I have yet to see anyone explain why a thicker fluid is supposed to give better shifting. This, even though I have seen it posted several times. I mean, higher viscosity = more resistance. Should be quite a bit worse in colder areas. Not meaning to jack your thread Origin, but I'd like to see some explanations.

More to the theme: I have experienced much better shifting in my Ranger after dumping the factory fill and filling with Amsoil ATF.
 
I'm not sure folks are saying thicker means better shifting, rather they are assuming thicker lube will provide better gear protection.

It's interesting to me that a 100°C 9.6 cSt MTF will make a huge difference from a 7.5 cSt ATF at 25°C. I would love to have the viscosity actually measured at 25°C. At 40°C the MTF is 47.1 cSt....and the ATF is 37.4 cSt. It's a difference, no doubt about it - but not like a rear gear oil difference.
 
Tempest - no worries - great question btw! Maybe I can help out a little bit. I don't know much but I do know what I feel.

With the Amsoil MTF shifting was definitely a bit more difficult than the ATF. I also recorded worse MPG during that run with MTF than with the ATF. Not sure if that was a result of the MTF or wind/gas/etc...

Now with Royal Purple ATF in there - shifting has noticably been easier (can throw shifter into gears instead of pushing and feeling a resistance). I plan to go with Amsoil ATF after this run as Royal Purple is insanely expensive $9.79/qt at Napa.

Just for your information: Manual calls for ATF for the manual transaxle.
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I have a 04 cavalier with a getrag my self
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when i first got the car i changed the trans fluid to royal purple syncro stuff at 1800 miles. it shifted hard so i went to amsoil atf at 10000 miles and it shifted good much better than the RP anout the same as stock. then at 20,000 i changed to B&M trick shift synthetic. it shifted OK but not as good as amsoil. at 30k i tried mobil1 atf with 2oz of lsd diff additive and now shifting is so easy it just slides in. lol
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anyway i think i have found what i want to use from now on so just to make sure i changed it again today at 40k and i think i will go 30k on this. for me 2bottles mobil 1 atf 2oz lsd juice =
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