First self oil change

[SolusUmbra]

I have a 1988 Ford Ranger 2.0L and I’ve been running 10-30 full synthetic for as long as I’ve had the truck. The last time it went to the mechanic he put in 10-30 conventional without asking me (also had a brand new unopened bottle on the back). I’m kind of scarred now to trust anyone else changing my oil, as it just doesn’t run the same as it used to and now for the first time in my looking into trying to see if I can do it myself.

However I’m coming a-crossed some questions.
1. I have very weak hand strength/grip, what will be the best type of tool to have for removing the oil filter?
2. What brand of cheap oil filer is best?
3. Does my truck use a crush washer or gasket? When I looked online at O’Reillys it shows a 16mm bolt with some kind of blue gasket, but the one on my truck is 13mm or at least the last time it went checked it was, mechanic might of changed that to…
4. also the last time it tried to remove that plug I wasn’t able to do it, I overfilled what options do I have if I can’t move it again? I bought a breaker bar but it might be too big to fit under the truck.
Thanks in advance for any tip, tricks, and advice

 

[SolusUmbra]

I would go ahead and purchase a new drain plug and a "claw" oil filter removal wrench before I start on the job. That way you are prepared for what may be a bad case scenario.

Have your six point socket set available in case the existing oil drain plug is worn down and you may need to use a socket different than original OEM spec.

The claw wrench tightens on the oil filter canister as you untighten the filter with your ratchet wrench. I have never had it fail. Most likely tighten by hand would be sufficient; otherwise I have used a properly fitting cap wrench to carefully tighten. Size the claw wrench to a correct filter at the store before purchase.

I also use 36" absorbent bed pads to catch the loose oil drippings and dispose after use.

One other answer is to specify to the mechanic exactly what oil you want to be used and let him deal with the oil change anyway. I would not fire a mechanic for putting in conventional vs synthetic if the work is otherwise done OK.

.5 qt overfill is probably not a big deal. 1 qt over could be. How much over did you put in?

I didn't fire him, but it did make me mad since I had to pay out the extra money for oil I had sitting there. I managed to overfill by 3 or 4qts.... since I couldn't get the bolt off i took it to the nearest shop so I did risk running it to long. that was some time ago but its a lesson I wont forget easily.

 

[Astro14]

Don’t confuse the bolt head size (wrench size) with the thread size of the drain plug - the thread size determines your washer size.

Probably a 16mm if that’s what is shown. Most of mine are 18mm, with a couple of 14mm.

 

[Number_35]

I saw a video of also making a tool out of paracord to remove the filter, was half tempted as I have alot of paracord. I'm in south east TN (south of Knoxville) I live in a townhouse but as long as I don't make to big of a mess and don't leave it sitting for to long I'm good to go. In the past I've done my fuel pump (thankfully inside engine bay) and redid all my breaks, and even fixed my tail lights. I also have a canopy that can be put up in case of rain or in need of shade.

The fuel pump and brakes would have been much harder than the oil change will be. I don't think you'll have any trouble.

 

[SolusUmbra]

The fuel pump and brakes would have been much harder than the oil change will be. I don't think you'll have any trouble.

as long as i can get the plug off this time haha

 

[QwikKota]

Fumoto makes the most popular style of quick drain valve for the oil pan. I have them on all of our vehicles.

 

[SolusUmbra]

Fumoto makes the most popular style of quick drain valve for the oil pan. I have them on all of our vehicles.

which store can you get them at or is it online only?

 

[QwikKota]

which store can you get them at or is it online only?

I have bought mine from the Fumoto website or Amazon. The nipple is nice for adding tubing to make the drain process cleaner, assuming you have plenty of clearance to other vehicle parts and the ground.

https://www.fumotousa.com/f106n.html#product-details-tab-description

https://a.co/d/08YzqFIo

 

[meep]

I might recommend a cheap torque wrench for tightening the drain plug. Too loose and it could come off. Too tight and it can be really hard to get off again. You’d use the torque wrench to install the drain plug bolt, and then set the torque wrench back to 0 until it’s used again. I’m guessing 15 ft-lbs is about right?

Filters are a similar concern. Tighten until the gasket first contacts the engine, then between 3/4 to 1 full turn, and not more. Again, too loose and it could come off; too tight and it will be a nightmare in 5 months.

A decent drain pan, and flattened cardboard beneath it are what I use. I keep a squirter with 50;50 simple green to spray and towel up any spots I leave.

 

[Donald]

If you are suggesting using conventional 10W30 vs synthetic caused the engine to run differently I would doubt that. Except maybe starting the engine when it's very very cold out.