First self oil change

[SolusUmbra]

I have a 1988 Ford Ranger 2.0L and I’ve been running 10-30 full synthetic for as long as I’ve had the truck. The last time it went to the mechanic he put in 10-30 conventional without asking me (also had a brand new unopened bottle on the back). I’m kind of scarred now to trust anyone else changing my oil, as it just doesn’t run the same as it used to and now for the first time in my looking into trying to see if I can do it myself.

However I’m coming a-crossed some questions.
1. I have very weak hand strength/grip, what will be the best type of tool to have for removing the oil filter?
2. What brand of cheap oil filer is best?
3. Does my truck use a crush washer or gasket? When I looked online at O’Reillys it shows a 16mm bolt with some kind of blue gasket, but the one on my truck is 13mm or at least the last time it went checked it was, mechanic might of changed that to…
4. also the last time it tried to remove that plug I wasn’t able to do it, I overfilled what options do I have if I can’t move it again? I bought a breaker bar but it might be too big to fit under the truck.
Thanks in advance for any tip, tricks, and advice

 

[rstsco]

Changing your own oil a filter is not a difficult job. The first time it may be difficult to remove a filter or drain bolt, depending on how tight the last person put it on. Once you've gotten over that hurdle, every subsequent oil change will be much easier.

1) As for the best type of tool for removing the filter, I'd suggest an oil filter wrench designed specifically for the filter you're going to be using. I only took my own advise and ordered a quality oil filter wrench yesterday. The oil filters which are currently considered of the higher quality are being manufactured by Premium Guard (PGI). Specific filters are Premium Guard EX, Microgard Select (OReilly's) and Carquest Premium (Advanced Auto Parts). Also getting good reviews are filters branded Mobil 1 and some of STP. All of those mentioned you should be able to buy for $10 or less.

2) Best brand of oil is always a hot topic. Mobil 1 ESP X2 (and other Mobil flavors), Valvoline Restore and Protect, Pennzoil Ultra Platinum, and many more off-the-shelf oils are available at Walmart for generally under $30 for a 5-quart jug and are generally accepted as high quality.

3) I'm not familiar with your engine. Worst case scenario, make a trip to a Ford dealer's parts department and get some from them, or just get one, then use an alternate source going forward. Should you remove the old one and the new one doesn't fit for some reason, it's not the end of the world to reuse the old one. Many people do not replace theirs each oil change anyway.

4) This is always the big unknown the first time removing an oil drain bolt. First, ensure you're turning it the correct way for removal. I realize this may sound like a "Duh" moment, but you may be looking at it from a different direction making it not as obvious. Using the correct sized, six-point socket, you should be able to find a combination of where the socket goes on the wrench/braker bar allowing enough room to remove the bolt. If one way of putting the socket on doesn't give you enough room, take the socket off and turn it 90 degrees. Keep doing this as needed and one of the positions should work enough to slowly get it loose. If you can't get it loose, don't add any oil and take it somewhere to get the oil changed. That's the worst case scenario.

If you want to make sure you're putting in exactly the amount of oil called for when changing the oil and filter (find in owner's manual), I've seen many YouTube videos of people using this style oil funnel which has measurements on the funnel and a valve which you open after getting the correct amount of oil in the funnel.

The first time changing your own oil may require buying a few specialty tools as mentioned above, but you only need to buy them once.

Best to you.

Oil filter wrench I ordered for my Honda filters. You will need to know the filter size and number of flutes for your filter.

 

[Kurtatron]

Get an oil drain valve! Best money spent if you want to change your own conveniently. If you have more cash, you can get a dipstick extractor (too much money and big for me). All my cars have valves. Flick a switch and out comes the oil.

 

[Zee09]

Get a electric extractor and you don't need to mess with the drain plug ever

https://a.co/d/071uZ6jW

Next get one of these and use your breaker bar...check filter size
I prefer Lisle brand but you have many choices

https://a.co/d/072C1omc

Next search your vehicle here and you may find someone doing oil changes on theirs and DM them for advice...
Good luck.

 

[rstsco]

Next get one of these and use your breaker bar...check filter size
I prefer Lisle brand but you have many choices

https://a.co/d/072C1omc

I have the Lisle, but after this weekend's debacle with how to properly tighten an oil filter with the P-style gasket, I ordered the Motivx. The Lisle is great for removing a filter, but due to its design, is not helpful tightening a filter.

 

[Zee09]

I have the Lisle, but after this weekend's debacle with how to properly tighten an oil filter with the P-style gasket, I ordered the Motivx. The Lisle is great for removing a filter, but due to its design, is not helpful tightening a filter.

I never use tools to tighten filters
I suspect some need it and the cap type is better for that no doubt

 

[rstsco]

I never use tools to tighten filters
I suspect some need it and the cap type is better for that no doubt

I hadn't either before this weekend, but wanted to see if the filter would turn any more than what I did hand-tightening. Got about 10 degrees angle more.

 

[rstsco]

Midwest F150 posted this video showing someone how to change the oil and filter in their car. Might be worth checking out if you haven't done it before. They even use the measuring funnel.

 

[Number_35]

I recommend having an experienced friend work with you for your first oil change.

It's not really difficult, but there are things that can go wrong.

I was fortunate to have a kindly and patient older mechanic teach me how. This was a summer job right after I'd finished high school. I knew very little, but had the interest.

We serviced a small fleet of Ford Couriers (rebadged Mazda B1600s) and a '68 Chevy wagon.

 

[Kira]

I recommend having an experienced friend work with you for your first oil change.

This is what I was thinking too.
Your 4-cyl. engine will make it among the easier-to-do vehicles. It's all about access.

I use an old cotton packing blanket as a drop cloth.
The cheap polyester ones sold at Harbor Freight will work, but old style cotton is better at absorbing.

The old trick of SLOPPILY winding some masking tape on the old filter -with sticky side up/down and twisted.
You'd be surprised how often it works. It'll make you feel like Superman.
Again, if you can easily reach it.

If the filter doesn't budge (unlikely) DO NOT ENTERTAIN THE STUPID MYTH OF PIERCING THE OIL FILTER WITH A BIG SCREWDRIVER. The can rips apart and the job becomes a horror.

The tools they make for this job are many.
Sometimes the "cup style" sockets fit vaguely. They can skip if not made to a precise spec.
Some of the "big jaw" ones might be too big. Again, you likely have enough access.

Go to RockAuto.com to see the many filter brands.

Approximately where are you located? There might be a BITOGer near you who'd pop over to instruct.

Do you have a place to work? Some people live in condos where such work is forbidden.

 

[Leo99]

I never use tools to tighten filters
I suspect some need it and the cap type is better for that no doubt

I use a tool to tighten my oil filter as I don't trust my hand strength, but I don't go very tight. Just good and snug. The filters remove without any problem except once with a Fram that took more persuasion. You are correct that hand tight is usually the correct way.

Here is a video of a 88 Ranger oil change. I'll ignore why it looks like water is coming out with the oil. Looks like a messy job. This guy used the big pliers to remove the oil filter. I'd use a cap wrench with a long extension to a ratchet. This guy probably put oil filter on himself so he knows it's not cranked on too tightly.

 

[oilboy123]

I was pretty sure you had the 2.3 engine. But I now see they put a smaller 2.0 engine in those as well. Learned something new. I started working on cars many years ago"late 70s". I did not have anyone to teach me anything. I found good books/manuals.

Forums now days are a game changer. You might want to try a Ranger forum to learn more as well. Once you do an oil change one time it will be a piece of cake...... Then you can learn other things to do. Good luck!

 

[PF52]

If the filter doesn't budge (unlikely) DO NOT ENTERTAIN THE STUPID MYTH OF PIERCING THE OIL FILTER WITH A BIG SCREWDRIVER. The can rips apart and the job becomes a horror.

I remember watching a friend do exactly that, yes also on a 4-cyl. Ranger. Apparently the old filter had been put on at about 300 ft-lbs. of torque. He hammered a screwdriver through it..... It promptly peeled the thin sheetmetal of the filter as if it were a grapefruit. If I recall, he eventually had to use a hammer and chisel to break the base of the filter loose enough to unscrew. Huge mess.

 

[PF52]

4) This is always the big unknown the first time removing an oil drain bolt. First, ensure you're turning it the correct way for removal. I realize this may sound like a "Duh" moment, but you may be looking at it from a different direction making it not as obvious.

+2

This one is surprisingly easy to mix up, especially when you're lying on your back on the driveway looking up at the oil pan, and the head of the bolt is facing away from you (because it's located on the back side of the oil pan). Your mind starts playing tricks on you.... Is this lefty-loosey, or am I going the wrong way? Knowing your tools and which way to set the ratchet helps.

 

[SolusUmbra]

Get an oil drain valve! Best money spent if you want to change your own conveniently. If you have more cash, you can get a dipstick extractor (too much money and big for me). All my cars have valves. Flick a switch and out comes the oil.

I thought about that, but the reviews from the one advance auto has made me worry.
https://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p...092-020/11953594-P?searchTerm=oil+drain+valve

 

[JayhawkRoy]

I would go ahead and purchase a new drain plug and a "claw" oil filter removal wrench before I start on the job. That way you are prepared for what may be a bad case scenario.

Have your six point socket set available in case the existing oil drain plug is worn down and you may need to use a socket different than original OEM spec.

The claw wrench tightens on the oil filter canister as you untighten the filter with your ratchet wrench. I have never had it fail. Most likely tighten by hand would be sufficient; otherwise I have used a properly fitting cap wrench to carefully tighten. Size the claw wrench to a correct filter at the store before purchase.

I also use 36" absorbent bed pads to catch the loose oil drippings and dispose after use.

One other answer is to specify to the mechanic exactly what oil you want to be used and let him deal with the oil change anyway. I would not fire a mechanic for putting in conventional vs synthetic if the work is otherwise done OK.

.5 qt overfill is probably not a big deal. 1 qt over could be. How much over did you put in? Looks like 5 qt fill is specified, so that should work without any special funnel. If over, see above, or reduce next oil change amount by half quart or so.

 

[SolusUmbra]

Changing your own oil a filter is not a difficult job. The first time it may be difficult to remove a filter or drain bolt, depending on how tight the last person put it on. Once you've gotten over that hurdle, every subsequent oil change will be much easier.

1) As for the best type of tool for removing the filter, I'd suggest an oil filter wrench designed specifically for the filter you're going to be using. I only took my own advise and ordered a quality oil filter wrench yesterday. The oil filters which are currently considered of the higher quality are being manufactured by Premium Guard (PGI). Specific filters are Premium Guard EX, Microgard Select (OReilly's) and Carquest Premium (Advanced Auto Parts). Also getting good reviews are filters branded Mobil 1 and some of STP. All of those mentioned you should be able to buy for $10 or less.

2) Best brand of oil is always a hot topic. Mobil 1 ESP X2 (and other Mobil flavors), Valvoline Restore and Protect, Pennzoil Ultra Platinum, and many more off-the-shelf oils are available at Walmart for generally under $30 for a 5-quart jug and are generally accepted as high quality.

3) I'm not familiar with your engine. Worst case scenario, make a trip to a Ford dealer's parts department and get some from them, or just get one, then use an alternate source going forward. Should you remove the old one and the new one doesn't fit for some reason, it's not the end of the world to reuse the old one. Many people do not replace theirs each oil change anyway.

4) This is always the big unknown the first time removing an oil drain bolt. First, ensure you're turning it the correct way for removal. I realize this may sound like a "Duh" moment, but you may be looking at it from a different direction making it not as obvious. Using the correct sized, six-point socket, you should be able to find a combination of where the socket goes on the wrench/braker bar allowing enough room to remove the bolt. If one way of putting the socket on doesn't give you enough room, take the socket off and turn it 90 degrees. Keep doing this as needed and one of the positions should work enough to slowly get it loose. If you can't get it loose, don't add any oil and take it somewhere to get the oil changed. That's the worst case scenario.

If you want to make sure you're putting in exactly the amount of oil called for when changing the oil and filter (find in owner's manual), I've seen many YouTube videos of people using this style oil funnel which has measurements on the funnel and a valve which you open after getting the correct amount of oil in the funnel.

The first time changing your own oil may require buying a few specialty tools as mentioned above, but you only need to buy them once.

Best to you.

Oil filter wrench I ordered for my Honda filters. You will need to know the filter size and number of flutes for your filter.
View attachment 337136

thank you I'll ask the shop when I pick up the filter, which one will fit!

 

[SolusUmbra]

Midwest F150 posted this video showing someone how to change the oil and filter in their car. Might be worth checking out if you haven't done it before. They even use the measuring funnel.

I might have to check into this funnel so I don't overfill... again....

 

[SolusUmbra]

I recommend having an experienced friend work with you for your first oil change.

It's not really difficult, but there are things that can go wrong.

I was fortunate to have a kindly and patient older mechanic teach me how. This was a summer job right after I'd finished high school. I knew very little, but had the interest.

We serviced a small fleet of Ford Couriers (rebadged Mazda B1600s) and a '68 Chevy wagon.

Sadly I don't have anyone, in the past I tried to get involved with some older car clubs but still couldn't find anyone to help teach me things. I've tried to get my step-dad to help me through video call, but he hates my truck so always says no.

 

[SolusUmbra]

This is what I was thinking too.
Your 4-cyl. engine will make it among the easier-to-do vehicles. It's all about access.

I use an old cotton packing blanket as a drop cloth.
The cheap polyester ones sold at Harbor Freight will work, but old style cotton is better at absorbing.

The old trick of SLOPPILY winding some masking tape on the old filter -with sticky side up/down and twisted.
You'd be surprised how often it works. It'll make you feel like Superman.
Again, if you can easily reach it.

If the filter doesn't budge (unlikely) DO NOT ENTERTAIN THE STUPID MYTH OF PIERCING THE OIL FILTER WITH A BIG SCREWDRIVER. The can rips apart and the job becomes a horror.

The tools they make for this job are many.
Sometimes the "cup style" sockets fit vaguely. They can skip if not made to a precise spec.
Some of the "big jaw" ones might be too big. Again, you likely have enough access.

Go to RockAuto.com to see the many filter brands.

Approximately where are you located? There might be a BITOGer near you who'd pop over to instruct.

Do you have a place to work? Some people live in condos where such work is forbidden.

I saw a video of also making a tool out of paracord to remove the filter, was half tempted as I have alot of paracord. I'm in south east TN (south of Knoxville) I live in a townhouse but as long as I don't make to big of a mess and don't leave it sitting for to long I'm good to go. In the past I've done my fuel pump (thankfully inside engine bay) and redid all my breaks, and even fixed my tail lights. I also have a canopy that can be put up in case of rain or in need of shade.