First Rust On my 14 Yr Old Truck

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The rust is at the rocker panel passenger side, at the rear corner of the cab. I have been spraying rustproofing on the truck every year. Second photo shows the spot after wire brushing. I have the POR15 kit with the degreaser, MetalPrep and POR15, so I went through the recommended routine and applied POR15. I will spray silver paint on it after the POR15 dries.
 
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Do you know if water gets in under the panel and builds up behind that seam? Are there access holes at the back of the panel to apply rustproofing? Hopefully the POR seals it well and prevents it from coming back.

What type of rustproofing are you using and do you DIY the rustproofing?
 
Looks better already. My goal on the 05 vehicle is to keep it running well and looking good. Chasing perfection is a fool‘s errand so no need to worry about it.
 
Looks better already. My goal on the 05 vehicle is to keep it running well and looking good. Chasing perfection is a fool‘s errand so no need to worry about it.
I agree, if you want perfection, then you won't want to drive it and park it unattended in a parking lot because some idiot will park next to you and probably ding your door or something similar.
 
That POR15 is strong stuff. I've used Rustbullet too, which I don't have enough time with to see how well it holds up.

Trav has the best recommendations in terms of supplies and techniques to use for these types of repairs, but how you repaired it (I have too) should be pretty good as well.
 
Do you know if water gets in under the panel and builds up behind that seam? Are there access holes at the back of the panel to apply rustproofing? Hopefully the POR seals it well and prevents it from coming back.

What type of rustproofing are you using and do you DIY the rustproofing?
I will take another look but I don't think there is any way to get rustproofing oil behind that panel.

I use Dripless Undercoating Oil from Monarch Oil in Waterloo and use a Lemmer spray gun to apply it.
https://monarchoil.com/
https://www.lemmer.com/store/p73/Rust_proofing_Pressure_Pot_2.25_gallons_Kit.html
The pot itself is from Princess Auto, a lot cheaper than Lemmer.
 
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Can you drill a hole from the back and seal it up with the plugs like Rust check uses? I would kill those seams from behind with rustproofing. I'm using Fluid film on my rides.
 
Can you drill a hole from the back and seal it up with the plugs like Rust check uses? I would kill those seams from behind with rustproofing. I'm using Fluid film on my rides.
I bought a pack of plastic 3/8 in plugs recently. Krown uses that size.
I see that you have a 23 year old car on the road in our climate, so Fluid film must be working well for you on your Honda.
 
Can you drill a hole from the back and seal it up with the plugs like Rust check uses? I would kill those seams from behind with rustproofing. I'm using Fluid film on my rides.
This is the only way, you would need to find suitable body plugs, drill the hole, apply the product, apply grease around the hole edges, then put the plug in.
Here's a picture of my JGC where Krown forgot a plug.
You can see the old grease, second time getting it done.
20200824_080157.jpg
 
Can you drill a hole from the back and seal it up with the plugs like Rust check uses? I would kill those seams from behind with rustproofing. I'm using Fluid film on my rides.
I agree.
But it looks like the heavy rust is on the outside.
After the OP finishes his repair, he should apply some Fluid Film at the very top of the seam and let it run down and creep (where the water was entering).
 
View attachment 31121View attachment 31122View attachment 31123
The rust is at the rocker panel passenger side, at the rear corner of the cab. I have been spraying rustproofing on the truck every year. Second photo shows the spot after wire brushing. I have the POR15 kit with the degreaser, MetalPrep and POR15, so I went through the recommended routine and applied POR15. I will spray silver paint on it after the POR15 dries.

Ideally (next time) you would want to blast that spot with a spot sand/bead blaster before doing anything else, sand it back about 2-3" and feather it with an orbital sander and 120 grit.
For the past couple of years I have been using ZRC galvilite on small spots like this right after getting it down to bare metal if it doesn't have any holes.

Before spraying it wipe the bare metal down with some cheap white vinegar, it will etch the metal, dry it thoroughly then spray 3 thin coats of the ZRC on it.
I use a 2K epoxy primer but if you don't have the spray equipment self etching primer from a rattle can does a decent job, put 3-4 coats on and let it dry overnight then scuff with 400-600 grit dry, wipe off with IPA dry and spray regular primer on the repair.
Wet sand it carefully as not to break through (re-prime if you do) then paint and clear.

Either drill a hole for a plastic plug or use any hole from inside the rocker that will allow a want to be inserted. Use Noxudol 700 to coat the whole inside of the rocker panel (Fluid film doesn't come close to this stuff, Toyota specs Noxudol for frame replacements).
If this is a high impact area for rock chips consider using some 3M film over that part.

Links to the products I mentions, I use Amazon for convenience but they are available from many sources.

https://www.amazon.com/ZRC-Galvilite-Galvanizing-Compound-Aerosol/dp/B00F0O4X6S

https://www.amazon.com/Noxudol-Rust...A33SJXDJSHC&psc=1&refRID=JRSJTMV7KA33SJXDJSHC

https://www.amazon.com/Dupli-Color-...fix=self+etching+primer,automotive,159&sr=1-9

https://www.amazon.com/Clear-Paint-...omotive&sprefix=3m+film,automotive,179&sr=1-2

This uses very little CFM and works well for small stuff like this.

https://www.amazon.com/Sandblaster-...BWKZWJDHGFY&psc=1&refRID=18A15FMPEBWKZWJDHGFY
 
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If I posted pictures of my 13 year old Truck it would put that to shame. I wish mine looked like yours.
 
This is the only way, you would need to find suitable body plugs, drill the hole, apply the product, apply grease around the hole edges, then put the plug in.
Here's a picture of my JGC where Krown forgot a plug.
You can see the old grease, second time getting it done.
View attachment 31142
Krown is famous for forgetting plugs and sometimes forgetting to spray panels. I stopped using both them and Rust Check and decided to do it myself. How in the world can you not double check your work????

Napa Canada sells the plugs.
 
Been going there for years, with multiple vehicles, 1st time I see this.
You're lucky. On the 97 civic they drilled a hole to spray the back panel in front of the rear wheel. I guess there are two pieces of metal and they only drilled through the first one. Therefore they didn't rust proof jack! I should have reported them to head office.

Lesson learned from these hacks.
 
Krown is famous for forgetting plugs and sometimes forgetting to spray panels. I stopped using both them and Rust Check and decided to do it myself. How in the world can you not double check your work?.
Krown sprayed my truck the first three times. They did not forget any plugs but they did not spray some sections, sections that are above the frame rails that the average customer would never notice. You have to crawl under the truck to notice.

I used the Krown shop in Toronto at Dufferin and Wilson. There was an older long time employee who would spray well. Last time I went there he was gone and they had some kids spraying. That was when I decided that I had better start spraying myself.
Same thing at the tire shop where I take our work trucks. A long time employee would mount tires properly. He is gone now and it is all kids mounting tires. Some of these kids will be selling burgers next year, a job to them is just a way to make money.
 
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How did the OP's truck get that rust. Was there a scratch or chip that started it? If it started from the front and not the back then something happened to the paint.
 
There was no scratch or chip that I know of. I think paint came off at the very edge of the panel where I assume it is weaker than on the flat surface of a panel. My best guess - fourteen years of temperature extremes and vibration and shock from driving cause paint adhesion failure
 
There was no scratch or chip that I know of. I think paint came off at the very edge of the panel where I assume it is weaker than on the flat surface of a panel. My best guess - fourteen years of temperature extremes and vibration and shock from driving cause paint adhesion failure
Looks to me like moisture worked its way under the Sealant and started rusting.
Then the rust spread to the outside.

OP - If the rust comes back, cut that Sealant out of there and check for hidden rust.
Finish the body work as normal and then recaulk.
 
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