First post, reccomend me oil for 2010 Equinox

[yellolab]

Hi everyone:

I just ordered a new 2010 Equinox with the 2.4 DI engine. Pouring thru this site, I see several references to these engines being hard on oil. I owuld like your suggestions on what oil to try after the initial break-in.

About me: in sales, put ~25K miles/year on. I do my own oil changes, so longevity bewteen changes is important to me.

I live in Vermont,so have plenty of cold weather. My car will be outside, so long periods of idling will be common as it warms up and melts the snow/ice build.

Most of my miles are a results on 4 hour highway runs, although with my 2 kids I get plenty of short trips to school etc.

thanks in advance/Kevin

 

[Manny_Ramirez]

Mobil 1 or Pennzoil Platinum would be my choices with 6 - 7.5k OCI's.

 

[Hermann]

Welcome to the forum. If you plan on using the Oil Life Monitor any brand name converntional oil in the proper grade will do just fine.

If you want to go synthetic and run extended OCI's, a good choice would be Pennzoil Platinum or Pennzoil Ultra, Castrol Edge, Quaker State Horsepower UD, and many others. All of the above are easily available. Use a decent filter and it will serve you well.

Enjoy the Equinox.

 

[pbm]

Originally Posted By: Manny_Ramirez
Mobil 1 or Pennzoil Platinum would be my choices with 6 - 7.5k OCI's.




I agree with Manny 100%

 

[The Critic]

Until we see some used oil analysis on the oil condition, I would use conventional oil and change it every 3,000 miles.

If you want to go longer, then I would use synthetic and change it every 5,000 miles.

Normally I would say just go with the OLM, but there's something strange about these new DI engines that makes me want to take the "wait and see" approach when it comes to extended oil drains past 5,000 miles.

 

[buster]

25k miles a year is a lot of miles. I would pick one of the better synthetic oils on the market, and check the oil @5k mile intervals with a used oil analysis sample. From there you can determine the proper OCI.

3,000 miles is a myth.

 

[ahoier]

For starters, just stick with oil that spec'd properly for the vehicle based on the ILSAC/API classifcation....

It being a new vehicle, with a warranty, and previous references of it being "hard on oil" - I'd not stray away from the owner's manual for your Oil Change Intervals....

But that's just me If I got a warranty, I'm gonna cover my bases

 

[tomcat27]

the DI's are rough - they get valve deposits.

 

[beanoil]

Originally Posted By: The Critic
Until we see some used oil analysis on the oil condition, I would use conventional oil and change it every 3,000 miles.

If you want to go longer, then I would use synthetic and change it every 5,000 miles.

Normally I would say just go with the OLM, but there's something strange about these new DI engines that makes me want to take the "wait and see" approach when it comes to extended oil drains past 5,000 miles.

X2..
And I chose Schaeffer 9000 for my Nox, at 6k OCI. I'll get an analysis done then, and back off if I have to. There are 2 issues at hand here. No fuel washes over the intake valve to clean it: only oil vapor from the PCV system. There are documented cases of intake valves crudded up by oil vapors changing air flow characteristics. And with DI, the fuel is sprayed into the chamber at high pressure. DI engines have shown pretty high percentages of fuel in the oil, decreasing viscosity, and adding to oil volatilty. Even my dealer says that he is wary of the OLM in DI engines. I normally don't put much stock in stealership service department antics, but I think he may be right on this.
I think you are going to love your Nox. It's a strong engine, runs on regular unleaded (at 11.7 to 1 compression ratio!) and rides very smooth. In eco mode, on the second tank of fuel in mixed driving lovely spouse and I got 29.6 MPG . Two complaints. The sunroof wind deflector is useless. You get the whoomp-whoomp if the windows are up. The rears have to be cracked if the roof is open. And, the Michelin Latitude Tour tires are dang expensive. We picked up a nail in the sidewall at 1500 miles in one. The dealer was actually the cheapest, at 225.00 mounted and balanced.

 

[yellolab]

Thanks guys for the input.

Definitely going synthetic.

I would love to change it in the fall, then not again until spring.

January oil changes SUCK !!!!!

Kevin

 

[yellolab]

And for sure something that is GM approved, for warranty reasons.

Sounds like Mobil 1 is only choice ??

Kevin

 

[Finklejag]

No, Mobil 1 isn't your only choice. With the direct injection engine, I would look for a low volatility oil. The two oils that have great low volatility are Redline and Amsoil. If you don't want to spend $10.00 a quart, then other OTC oils will work also.

Valvoline Synpower has a NOACK of 10.5 for their 5w30. Pennzoil Platinum 5w30 has a NOACK of 12.5, their Ultra 5w30 has a NOACK of 11. I don't know what NOACK numbers Mobil 1 oils have.

They're not many used oil analysis on the 2.4 DI. I don't know what the OLM is set for? I would do a 5k FF OCI, then another 5K OCI, and then send in for a used oil analysis. Thew oil will probably shear because of the fuel dilution.