First oil change

[Danh]

Originally Posted By: hallstevenson
Originally Posted By: kschachn
What sort of data do you have to support that statement?

In the short time I've been hanging around here, I've found much of what is recommended or insisted or believed is simply personal preference. No facts involved.


In this case there are pesky facts: Honda (the OP's make) specifically advises the factory fill be retained for a full OCI, which can be 10-12,000 miles.

Plus, very few manufacturers recommend an early change and there's plenty of anecdotal evidence that an engine's useful life is long with or without an early change.

 

[Eddie]

Honda does use a special High moly content oil in the factory fill. If it wasn't for the warranty, I'd drive it till 0% on the monitor. Ed

 

[SilverFusion2010]

Run the beans outta it on the hwy for 100 miles and then change it.

 

[SilverFusion2010]

The moly is in there to prevent hot spots and in turn prevent glazing of cylinder walls iirc. If you want to CYA for warranty get a Honda dealer to put their recommendation down on paper and follow it.

Or you could run it hard for a few hundred miles and change the oil to an SN rated Dino since you are not driving much

 

[Dyusik]

Buy oil, save receipt and say you changed it with said oil. DON'T CHANGE THE OIL.

 

[demarpaint]

Originally Posted By: Dyusik
Buy oil, save receipt and say you changed it with said oil. DON'T CHANGE THE OIL.


I call that a virtual oil change..............

 

[1JZ_E46]

Leave it. 500 miles? Engine is still breaking in, which requires the break-in oil that the engine is filled with from the factory.

 

[fdcg27]

How do you pony up for an EX only to drive it 500 miles in a year?
You're kinda between a rock and a hard place on this.
OTOH, the FF has lots of moly, whether from the FF oil formulation, assembly lube or coated piston skirts doesn't matter and Honda thinks its important to keep this stuff in for an entire normal interval. Nothing you can buy short of Red Line, not an ILSAC or API oil so not recommended for use in your car, will have this much moly.
OTOH, Honda says that an OCI should be after 15% MM or a year, whichever comes first.
I like the virtual oil change idea.
Buy a suitable oil for the first service, no filter needed until the second, and rock on with the FF.
Also, either drive the car more, lend it to someone who will or get rid of it.
At your rate of use, it would be far cheaper to cab around locally or rent a car as needed.

 

[Danh]

Originally Posted By: fdcg27
How do you pony up for an EX only to drive it 500 miles in a year?
You're kinda between a rock and a hard place on this.
OTOH, the FF has lots of moly, whether from the FF oil formulation, assembly lube or coated piston skirts doesn't matter and Honda thinks its important to keep this stuff in for an entire normal interval. Nothing you can buy short of Red Line, not an ILSAC or API oil so not recommended for use in your car, will have this much moly.
OTOH, Honda says that an OCI should be after 15% MM or a year, whichever comes first.
I like the virtual oil change idea.
Buy a suitable oil for the first service, no filter needed until the second, and rock on with the FF.
Also, either drive the car more, lend it to someone who will or get rid of it.
At your rate of use, it would be far cheaper to cab around locally or rent a car as needed.


Based on used oil analysis here, Honda's ff has about 550ppm of molybdenum. Mazda 0w-20 from your friendly neighborhood Mazda dealer? Around 600ppm according to used oil analysis.

 

[fdcg27]

Guess that depends upon the era of build.
The old Idemidsu API SM HGMO 0W-20 trumped this Mazda sauce for moly content.
I did do a used oil analysis of the FF from our '12 Accord after 8.7K in service.
Have to dig it up and see how much moly it showed.

 

[ARCOgraphite]

It was hard (for me), but the wife left the FF oil in for over 5000 miles on her new CrossTrek - though the dealer wanted her in for a free 1000mile OC and inspection (about which I told her was bogus unless she had a concern to be taken care of). The car did have a drivetrain vibration feeling like a tire out of balance - but that went away magically on its own. That interval was mainly neglect or lack of concern on her part. The dealer in Exeter, NH charged her almost $150.00 for a tire rotation and Oil and Filter change ... Insane!

I have the R.O. if anybody wants to see it.