Just bought a 2010 Dodge Grand Caravan with the 3.8 liter and 6 speed automatic. I am new to this forum so this topic probably has been discussed. Questions are when should I do the first oil change from the factory fill? Does the factory fill have extra oil additives for proper engine break-in? I was thinking about changing it around 1,000 miles but maybe I should wait if the factory fill has the extra additives, maybe 2-3 thousand miles. Am going to use Motorcraft 5W-20 semi-synthetic with a "classic" purolator filter. OK combo with 5k OCI and 6-9 months intervals? Thanks for the help.
First oil change and factory fill, new Caravan
- Thread starter mbell1968
- Start date
- Status
Does it have a OLM system? If so I'd leave it until the message change oil now appears.On my Hemi truck it was 2500 miles.In fact most all 09/10 Hemi trucks it pops on at 2500 the first time.
The manual calls for first change at 6,000 miles or 6 months whichever comes first. Same for each subsequent change. 5w-20 is specified as the oil grade. Just had heard you should do the first oil change early because of wear metals from the break in process, but don't know if that is true. Have no idea what the FF is.
2K is the new 1k change out. Of course it has tons O' Moly from assy lubes. Moly is what gets the car through break in NOT ZDDP, in fact ZDDp hinders proper wear in. You could change at 1K and then install Toyota or Honda Genuine 0w-20 - thouse will have MORE moly than your FF in all likelyhood. If I was running sae20 in a van, it dang** shure would have a ton O moly in it.
**van it dang ... is that Vietnamese for 'better have moly in van engine'?
**van it dang ... is that Vietnamese for 'better have moly in van engine'?
Originally Posted By: mbell1968
The manual calls for first change at 6,000 miles or 6 months whichever comes first. Same for each subsequent change. 5w-20 is specified as the oil grade. Just had heard you should do the first oil change early because of wear metals from the break in process, but don't know if that is true. Have no idea what the FF is.
I highly doubt anyone will put 6,000 miles on a Brand New Van within 6 months of purchase. on average, it will have a few thousand by 6 months.
Most people tend to keep the miles low the first few years to keep the value up...
I say you 1/2 the OEM recommendation and dump the FF fill @ 3k.
Vary the driving conditions a lot during the first few thousand miles (city driving, highway driving, WOT runs (pedal to the metal)(but slowly build up to it)
EXAMPLE: start with 40% throttle and work your way up.
Same with the rev range... half way up, 3/4s and then a decent amount of redline, WOT highway on-ramp merge pulls to really open up the engine and let it BREATH!
by 3k most of the break-in should be done with and a ton of metal shavings will be floating around/clogging up the oil filter.
Change the oil and then either follow the OLM or do the 5k OCI's you mentioned.
The manual calls for first change at 6,000 miles or 6 months whichever comes first. Same for each subsequent change. 5w-20 is specified as the oil grade. Just had heard you should do the first oil change early because of wear metals from the break in process, but don't know if that is true. Have no idea what the FF is.
I highly doubt anyone will put 6,000 miles on a Brand New Van within 6 months of purchase. on average, it will have a few thousand by 6 months.
Most people tend to keep the miles low the first few years to keep the value up...
I say you 1/2 the OEM recommendation and dump the FF fill @ 3k.
Vary the driving conditions a lot during the first few thousand miles (city driving, highway driving, WOT runs (pedal to the metal)(but slowly build up to it)
EXAMPLE: start with 40% throttle and work your way up.
Same with the rev range... half way up, 3/4s and then a decent amount of redline, WOT highway on-ramp merge pulls to really open up the engine and let it BREATH!
by 3k most of the break-in should be done with and a ton of metal shavings will be floating around/clogging up the oil filter.
Change the oil and then either follow the OLM or do the 5k OCI's you mentioned.
I don't see much point in changing out the FF early anymore. Technology of the manufacturing, and building of new engines has come so far since the "dump the factory fill with all the break in metals/debris" from years past when manufacturing/building these engines turned out a LOT more wear metals !!
I would run the factory fill for 6k or 6 months whichever comes first.
I would run the factory fill for 6k or 6 months whichever comes first.
Originally Posted By: rclint
I don't see much point in changing out the FF early anymore. Technology of the manufacturing, and building of new engines has come so far since the "dump the factory fill with all the break in metals/debris" from years past when manufacturing/building these engines turned out a LOT more wear metals !!
I would run the factory fill for 6k or 6 months whichever comes first.
+1
And when you do your first oil change, pick a good dino (such as PYB), unless you see severe conditions (eg. extreme heat or cold, towing, lots of idling), then go with synthetic. I always used dino when I lived in a mild climate, and they've served me well. My switch to synthetic corresponds to a change in climate and vehicle use.
I don't see much point in changing out the FF early anymore. Technology of the manufacturing, and building of new engines has come so far since the "dump the factory fill with all the break in metals/debris" from years past when manufacturing/building these engines turned out a LOT more wear metals !!
I would run the factory fill for 6k or 6 months whichever comes first.
+1
And when you do your first oil change, pick a good dino (such as PYB), unless you see severe conditions (eg. extreme heat or cold, towing, lots of idling), then go with synthetic. I always used dino when I lived in a mild climate, and they've served me well. My switch to synthetic corresponds to a change in climate and vehicle use.
You've obviously never examined the [censored] floating around in the bottom of the drain pan after draining the FF at X amount of miles.
I've done so with a TON of different cars from all of the major manufacturers.
Regardless of how GOOD the technology is, the engine still produces a decent amount of debris during the first few thousand miles, hence the Break-in.
If the oil filter wouldn't be there during the first thousand, i think you'd at the amount of metal in the oil.
I've done so with a TON of different cars from all of the major manufacturers.
Regardless of how GOOD the technology is, the engine still produces a decent amount of debris during the first few thousand miles, hence the Break-in.
If the oil filter wouldn't be there during the first thousand, i think you'd at the amount of metal in the oil.
Last edited by a moderator:
Originally Posted By: Artem
Originally Posted By: mbell1968
The manual calls for first change at 6,000 miles or 6 months whichever comes first. Same for each subsequent change. 5w-20 is specified as the oil grade. Just had heard you should do the first oil change early because of wear metals from the break in process, but don't know if that is true. Have no idea what the FF is.
I highly doubt anyone will put 6,000 miles on a Brand New Van within 6 months of purchase. on average, it will have a few thousand by 6 months.
Most people tend to keep the miles low the first few years to keep the value up...
I say you 1/2 the OEM recommendation and dump the FF fill @ 3k.
Vary the driving conditions a lot during the first few thousand miles (city driving, highway driving, WOT runs (pedal to the metal)(but slowly build up to it)
EXAMPLE: start with 40% throttle and work your way up.
Same with the rev range... half way up, 3/4s and then a decent amount of redline, WOT highway on-ramp merge pulls to really open up the engine and let it BREATH!
by 3k most of the break-in should be done with and a ton of metal shavings will be floating around/clogging up the oil filter.
Change the oil and then either follow the OLM or do the 5k OCI's you mentioned.
Great advice! I would follow this.
Originally Posted By: mbell1968
The manual calls for first change at 6,000 miles or 6 months whichever comes first. Same for each subsequent change. 5w-20 is specified as the oil grade. Just had heard you should do the first oil change early because of wear metals from the break in process, but don't know if that is true. Have no idea what the FF is.
I highly doubt anyone will put 6,000 miles on a Brand New Van within 6 months of purchase. on average, it will have a few thousand by 6 months.
Most people tend to keep the miles low the first few years to keep the value up...
I say you 1/2 the OEM recommendation and dump the FF fill @ 3k.
Vary the driving conditions a lot during the first few thousand miles (city driving, highway driving, WOT runs (pedal to the metal)(but slowly build up to it)
EXAMPLE: start with 40% throttle and work your way up.
Same with the rev range... half way up, 3/4s and then a decent amount of redline, WOT highway on-ramp merge pulls to really open up the engine and let it BREATH!
by 3k most of the break-in should be done with and a ton of metal shavings will be floating around/clogging up the oil filter.
Change the oil and then either follow the OLM or do the 5k OCI's you mentioned.
Great advice! I would follow this.
I highly doubt anyone will put 6,000 miles on a Brand New Van within 6 months of purchase. on average, it will have a few thousand by 6 months.
Most people tend to keep the miles low the first few years to keep the value up...
[/quote]
Completely inaccurate. People buy vans to drive... places and the vast majority get more than 12,000 miles in a year.
Most people tend to keep the miles low the first few years to keep the value up...
[/quote]
Completely inaccurate. People buy vans to drive... places and the vast majority get more than 12,000 miles in a year.
Patman
Staff member
Originally Posted By: mbell1968
It does have an OLM system
Is it the type of system that allows you to see what percentage of oil life is left as you go along, or does it just tell you when it's time to change?
If you can see the percentage at any time, I would probably do the first oil change at 50% oil life, then do the subsequent ones only once the monitor counts down to zero.
It does have an OLM system
Is it the type of system that allows you to see what percentage of oil life is left as you go along, or does it just tell you when it's time to change?
If you can see the percentage at any time, I would probably do the first oil change at 50% oil life, then do the subsequent ones only once the monitor counts down to zero.
Originally Posted By: Artem
You've obviously never examined the [censored] floating around in the bottom of the drain pan after draining the FF at X amount of miles.
I've done so with a TON of different cars from all of the major manufacturers.
Regardless of how GOOD the technology is, the engine still produces a decent amount of debris during the first few thousand miles, hence the Break-in.
If the oil filter wouldn't be there during the first thousand, i think you'd
at the amount of metal in the oil.
Many engines of past made it many many miles with no oil filter, and I quoted you just to show you where those particles are !! Floating around at the bottom of the oil pan..where they supposed to be, if they are any. This just goes to show that there is no drastic need for undue oil changes, however you may do just as you wish in any way you wish to do it, but for a need then that's a different story. The manufacture would have stated clearly in the owners manual, or else in person when purchase was made if a early oil change was needed, in fact they are footing the bill for the first several thousand miles on warranty alone.. I imagine this engine came with a 100,000 mile warranty.. and this would NOT be an oil related failure IF and I say IF in big letters so you can see that any left over particles damaged the engine it would be a flaw in the manufacturing process, or a defective part.
I have seen engines that have many hours/miles on the.. and some with, some without filters.. after the engine has been in service long enough for a rebuild, I have seen ZERO difference in a engine equipped with an oil filter, verses one without.. and then you get into pressurized oil systems like that of our cars, and those that run on a splash type system for instance a stationary, or equipment engine many times mall with a 3600 RPM governed speed
You've obviously never examined the [censored] floating around in the bottom of the drain pan after draining the FF at X amount of miles.
I've done so with a TON of different cars from all of the major manufacturers.
Regardless of how GOOD the technology is, the engine still produces a decent amount of debris during the first few thousand miles, hence the Break-in.
If the oil filter wouldn't be there during the first thousand, i think you'd
Many engines of past made it many many miles with no oil filter, and I quoted you just to show you where those particles are !! Floating around at the bottom of the oil pan..where they supposed to be, if they are any. This just goes to show that there is no drastic need for undue oil changes, however you may do just as you wish in any way you wish to do it, but for a need then that's a different story. The manufacture would have stated clearly in the owners manual, or else in person when purchase was made if a early oil change was needed, in fact they are footing the bill for the first several thousand miles on warranty alone.. I imagine this engine came with a 100,000 mile warranty.. and this would NOT be an oil related failure IF and I say IF in big letters so you can see that any left over particles damaged the engine it would be a flaw in the manufacturing process, or a defective part.
I have seen engines that have many hours/miles on the.. and some with, some without filters.. after the engine has been in service long enough for a rebuild, I have seen ZERO difference in a engine equipped with an oil filter, verses one without.. and then you get into pressurized oil systems like that of our cars, and those that run on a splash type system for instance a stationary, or equipment engine many times mall with a 3600 RPM governed speed
Last edited:
I know from experience that engines with full flow oil filters easily last twice as long before overhaul as compared to engines with bypass only filtering. This is not just 2 engines this is with 30 or 40 engines, with all engines getting the same oil and using factory branded filters as that was the companies policy on parts used.
Originally Posted By: mbell1968
Just bought a 2010 Dodge Grand Caravan with the 3.8 liter and 6 speed automatic. I am new to this forum so this topic probably has been discussed. Questions are when should I do the first oil change from the factory fill? Does the factory fill have extra oil additives for proper engine break-in? I was thinking about changing it around 1,000 miles but maybe I should wait if the factory fill has the extra additives, maybe 2-3 thousand miles. Am going to use Motorcraft 5W-20 semi-synthetic with a "classic" purolator filter. OK combo with 5k OCI and 6-9 months intervals? Thanks for the help.
Change when ever you feel like. If you are worried about an early oil change bring it to the dealer and see if they do it . All the additives if added are for the frist couple hours of driving/break in. What about the tranny etc!!!! just wondering.
Just bought a 2010 Dodge Grand Caravan with the 3.8 liter and 6 speed automatic. I am new to this forum so this topic probably has been discussed. Questions are when should I do the first oil change from the factory fill? Does the factory fill have extra oil additives for proper engine break-in? I was thinking about changing it around 1,000 miles but maybe I should wait if the factory fill has the extra additives, maybe 2-3 thousand miles. Am going to use Motorcraft 5W-20 semi-synthetic with a "classic" purolator filter. OK combo with 5k OCI and 6-9 months intervals? Thanks for the help.
Change when ever you feel like. If you are worried about an early oil change bring it to the dealer and see if they do it . All the additives if added are for the frist couple hours of driving/break in. What about the tranny etc!!!! just wondering.
Well, seems like some say change, some say don't. It does not have a percentage of oil life left monitor, just tells when to change. I think I'll go 2,000 miles and see what the monitor does, then probably change it one way or the other, cheap insurance I guess. Wonder if anyone has done a UOA at say 1,000 miles on a new engine and compared it to another new engine UOA done at say 5,000 miles. That would give us the answer as to amount of wear metals, etc. in the oil and allow a scientific comparison. Thanks everyone for the input.
- Status
Similar threads
