First oil change, 2012 Subaru Legacy 2.5i.

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Aug 14, 2003
Buffalo, NY
I changed out the factory oil today @ 4900mi. This is on a 2012 Legacy, with an EJ series 2.5. The only minor annoyance is the plastic belly pan that covers 3/4 of the oil filter. It's fairly quick and easy to remove with 4 small hex-head bolts and one (completely unnecessary) plastic push plug on either side and it slides right out rearward. Of course one of the push-plugs exploded on removal, so they were both instantly decontented. They really serve no support other than being just annoying enough to force people into a shop for service. The 'removable' belly pan has a big black kotex looking deal riveted to it's top-side for sound deadening I presume. I can see your average Kwiki-Loob leaving this pan in place and saturating the insulation pad with used oil draining from the filter removal. You'd be dribbling for weeks that being the case. I dunno if the engine oil drain plug is different for the 2010+ EJ 2.5L engine, but it's a small, stubby sucker. It's literally only 4-5 threads high! Anyhoo, out came ~4+ qts of black used oil and a blue Subaru filter and in went a 5qt jug of ultra high quality Peak 5w30 and a new blue Sooby filter. I reused the factory crush washer because I didn't have the proper one on hand. The one my Bro gave me for his old Legy Outback fit my drain plug like a big hoola-hoop. The oil level is a hair above full using a 5qt jug. I ain't gonna sweat that. Joel
Is the filter way tight inbetween the exhaust pipes where they form a "y"? Was very annoying to get the filter off in that spot ona friend's imprezza.
My older Forester had the plastic push-plugs. I found out they were there to combat a weird noise when driving at highway speedsin a cross wind. I ended up replacing the tosses ones. Subaru doesn't add stuff for the fun of it, I discovered.
Yes, the filter is tucked up in a hole formed out of heat-shielded exhaust, but it isn't bad to get a grip on at all. I used a big set of channel-locks to loosen the grossly overtightened factory filter. Real easy to get a bite on the thimble sized filter with the channel locks. Joel
As you found out, the crush washer is smaller than the older ones. Fortunately I found out before I changed oil on our 2011 Outback 2.5, and got a supply from Subaru. The dealer closest to me highly suggests using the Subaru crush washers. They tried aftermarket versions, to save some money, and went back to the real Subaru parts. These guys have always been truthful to me, so I have no reason to doubt their comment. At least I don't have to deal with a splash pan; access is OK. The filter is a bit awkward, but an endcap filter wrench works fine, with some help from duct tape. I had no issues with OEM filter removal, to my surprise. I guess the oil filter gorilla wasn't working the day my engine got the oil filter installed.
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The EJ253 loves synthetic blend oil. At least mine does. Smoother and revs free'r vs. conventional. I have not tried full syn yet, that may be next. I just went to syn blend at 27K miles from having used conventional up to then.
5 qts is too much for the EJ. The oil capacity is 4 litres - so NO MORE THAN 4.5 QTS with filter change. Unless you like sluggish reaponse, poor fuel mileage and invalidated warranty. Subarus take well to a bit of UNDERFILLING. Ive owned 8 subarus. from Justy to SVX. Also I hope the peak SN is better than the SM swill. That was the worst oil Ive ever run in the past ten years.
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Originally Posted By: ARCOgraphite
Old World Industries - the Antifreeze company.
Is who it's distributed through as far as I can tell. Who actually makes it? I'd think something along the lines of WPP as said above. It's the official oil of the Indy Series! That and the ~$8.99 per 5qt jug means quality. I'm kidding. I've used it in many vehicles that are still happily running along. Joel
Watch out for Warren there are 3 Warrens: Warren Packaging (Accel), Warren Unilube (Coastal, Lubriguard) and Warren Oil Co parent to Warren OIl.
Originally Posted By: JTK
Is who it's distributed through as far as I can tell. Who actually makes it? I'd think something along the lines of WPP as said above.
PRODUCT IDENTITY: PEAK PREMIUM PASSENGER CAR MOTOR OILS API Service SM including SAE 5W-20, 5W-30, 10W-30, 10W-40, 20W-50 API Service SL 10W-40, 20W-50 Quarts Only 1. CHEMICAL PRODUCT & COMPANY INFORMATION OLD WORLD INDUSTRIES, INC. 4065 COMMERCIAL AVENUE NORTHBROOK, ILLINOIS 60062 PHONE: 847-559-2000 EMERGENCY PHONE: 1-800-424-9300 (CHEMTREC) 2. COMPOSITION / INFORMATION ON INGREDIENTS STEL TWA TWA Material CAS# % by Wt. ACGIH (ACGIH) (OSHA) Petroleum Lubricating Oil 80% - 100% 10 mg/m3 5 mg/m3 5 mg/m3 64741884 (Mineral oil mist exposure limits) 64742525 647422536 64742547 64742581 64742627 72623837 Zinc Compounds 0.4% – 2.0% 0.09% as zinc
I really shouldn't be this way, but I'm just not as comfortable with new or off-brands. I feel better about major brands of oil. Exxon-Mobil, SOPUS, Castrol, Ashland, Conoco-Phillips, etc.
Originally Posted By: ARCOgraphite
Watch out for Warren there are 3 Warrens: Warren Packaging (Accel), Warren Unilube (Coastal, Lubriguard) and Warren Oil Co parent to Warren OIl.
On the bottom of the bottle is WNE. Not sure if that's a Warren designation or not. Joel
It also says on the bottle "Made for Old World Industries Inc". I emailed OWI to see where they source their oil from. Have to wait and see if I get a response. So far I've put about 200mi on it since my 5qt oil change oops. Still very smooth, easy starting in below freezing temps and still averaging 27-28mpg. Joel
Smooth is what counts for the boxer engine. Engine smoothness and freeness of the revs seems somewhat effected by various oils I've tried. I've heard others say Pennzoil Plat (PP) and Ultra (PU) are very good in the boxer engine along those lines. Haven't tried them yet though. Sharing common SOPUS origins with PP and PU, then Quaker State Ultimate Durability (QSUD) should be too. Sounds like we maybe can add Peak 5W30 to the list, also. Was it conventional or synthetic?
The Peak oil I used was the conventional 5w30. Here's the factory oil filter opened up. I can't say I'm all that thrilled with this. The overall construction is OK, the can is strong, the bypass valve is good and the anti-drain back valve is OK. Even the fiber end-caps are strong. I don't like the spreading and distortion of the pleats. They all appear to be intact with no tears or perforations, but it doesn't seem like oil could possibly push through uniformly the way some areas spread apart. The pleats are very stiff and cannot be moved by hand, unless I tear off the end-caps I presume. There was some shiny metallic glitter and a couple pieces of what looked like black sealant and/or gasket particles. Joel
I emailed OWI a few days ago in regards to where they source their motor oils from. They got back to me today. Whadda joke: "Joel, The oils are blended at several locations around the country. PEAK Tech Dept" LOL! I'm overwhelmed by the specifics. Joel
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