First 3-Stacker install

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Hello everyone!
I just finished my first Frantz 3-Stacker install today.It was on a Dodge Cummins.
When I started it,I couldn't get any flow for about 10 minutes!
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After the oil warmed a bit it started to flow.(kind of spitting)
The oil flowing started out very dirty.
I was concerned that I did something wrong!
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(not sealed the cannisters or forgot a washer)
Checked for leaks and took it for a test run.
Oil pressure was good so I drove for about 10 miles.
When I got back home,I checked for leaks and if the cannister was warm.

All systems were good to go!
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The biggest shock that I got was the oil on the dipstick.

These things really work!!!!
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After a short run, I could see a marked difference in the oil condition.
It went from pretty dirty to clean enough to see the metal on the dipstick!
Just wanted everyone to know my first experience
with a bypass filter.
I will put more miles on the truck this week,hopefully cleaner oil will be the case!
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Thanks,
slee
 
GHG,
Don't have pics yet.It is mounted in the bed of truck on an aluminun tool box.
Hoses are routed along frame and up through factory installed hole in bed.
Fairly easy install,took about 2 hours to do.
The hardest part was assembling all the pieces.
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I wanted to put it under the hood,but space was at a premium.
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The frame rail was another spot I looked at,
but I was trying to get away from crawling under
the truck for service,so I opted for the bed.
I clear coated the filter and mounting hardware.Hopefully rust and corrosion will be kept at bay!
I will post pics if I can.(not much to brag about,but it seems to work)
Thanks,
slee
 
Deepsquat,
It added 6 quarts to the system.
2 quarts are probably in the lines and 4 in the filter.(I have almost 40 feet of hose)

The papers with it say 5k filter change with 6
gallon capacity.I'm shooting for 10 to 12k changes.Maybe more.
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Thanks,
slee
 
quote:

Originally posted by slee:
Deepsquat,
It added 6 quarts to the system.
2 quarts are probably in the lines and 4 in the filter.(I have almost 40 feet of hose)

The papers with it say 5k filter change with 6
gallon capacity.I'm shooting for 10 to 12k changes.Maybe more.
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Thanks,
slee


I have a single roll Frantz installed on my 6.0 PSD and I have run it at 5000 miles and it still gets as hot at 5K miles as it does with a fresh roll of TP. I would venture to say that you could easily do 15K changes.
 
quote:

Originally posted by slee:
Deepsquat,
It added 6 quarts to the system.
2 quarts are probably in the lines and 4 in the filter.(I have almost 40 feet of hose)

Thanks,
slee


Seems to me your asking for it with hoses that long. somethings bound to happen.

Just be careful!
 
Yeh , I was thinking in the neighbourhood of 10-15k...did you see my 40,000 mile UOA ? that was useing just anyold oil ( after the first 24000) and LC about every 1000 and I would chang my filter every ...heck i don't know...when ever i felt like it???? 2-5k ...a few time I felt i went too long so I changed it and then again after 2000 ...then let it goo a while ...with your huge capacity you should be fine ...but keep an eye on the hoses ...i blew a connection off my Frantz tranny filter and was **** near stranded ...luckly I had a funnel and some fluid in the car and was jus 2 miles from home !
 
Hi,
Thanks for the input!I will try the 15k filter change if the oil looks good.I will monitor filter temps and return flow to try and determine
filter condition.
I'm running M1 T&SUV.Even without the filter,I feel pretty comfortable pushing 15k OCI's.
Hopefully the filter will allow me to extend OCI's to 60k!!
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The truck uses(loses) about a quart every 3k miles so that should keep the add pack replenished.
My next goal is to put 400k on it.Presently at 260k and climbing and its running as good as ever.
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The length of the hoses is a concern,not now while I'm watching everything closely,but when I'm comfortable with the system and forget about the things that can go wrong!!!
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Good advice on being careful and I'll try to be vigilant and keep a close eye on things!!
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Thanks for all the input,
slee
 
are you planning to do any UAO ..personally I would take a sample at 10,000 ....not do a drain ...just to see how the oil is ..and another at 20000 just to gt a feel for it ...i have done about 8-9 on my car and now pretty much have determind i can go 2-5000 between filter changes ...just look at the oil ..and never relly have to change the oil completely ...unless I want to
 
Deepsquat,

I wasn't planning on doing much in the way of analysis.I usually just go by sight,touch and smell.
I look for amber color in the light and see how fluid it is as compared to new oil.
I feel for any kind of fine grit on the dipstick and if it will maintain a strong slick film while trying to squeeze it off the dipstick.
Then I smell it for strong fuel odors and any other strange burnt odors.

Very un-scientific and I'm sure not the best way,
but so far it seems to work okay for me.
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I hope everyone doesn't think I'm nuts smelling the dipstick!!(I'm sure my wife does
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)

I really think you can tell something about the condition of your oil by smelling it.

If it starts to show signs of not making it to my goal of 60k,I'll do a UOA just to see how close my guesstimating was.

If this filter can clean the oil like it did when installed,I might not have to ever change it!

This is going to be a fun experiment!
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The real test for the filter will be when one is put on a Detroit 2 cycle diesel.(
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Soot making monster
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)

That is my next project and that motor will turn oil coal black in a matter of hours!
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Thats the one that I have a hard time judging oil condition on.Will have to do UOA's if the oil appears questionable in short time frame.

I was thinking about a Auto R-X or some kind of cleaning before I put the 3-Stacker on the equipment.Any thoughts on that?
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Thanks,
slee
 
Actually I think you really can tell a lot by the feel ..like you said if it is still amber in color on you fingers and not gritty when you rub it ...also if, when you rub it on your fingures for an extended period it does not disapear it is most likely in good shape ..as for the ARX...though it is a great product ...you are running THE oil for when it comes to cleaning up an engine...
 
Deepsquat,
You are right about the oil in my truck being the one of the best at cleaning.
The problem is the ash content is too high to use in a Detroit 2-cycle
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so Iwon't be able to use it.
What I understand about them is the rings get junked up by too many additives in the oil.This seems to be due to the nature of the engine.
Every stroke is a powerstroke and I guess that since there is no exhaust stroke,the oil isn't allowed to scavenge the cylinder.
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All the research that was done says to make sure the oil has ash less than .7%.
Specs say CF-2.
I wonder if regular M1 would be okay to use in this engine?I think the ash content is much lower in regular M1 than the T&SUV.
Has anyone been faced with this before?
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Thanks for all the help an input,
slee
P.S. MJO I've tasted mine too,tasted a little like chicken
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